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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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seems that if you leave it alone it will be fine
its intended purpose is the question and why use a tamperproof plug ??
Pete
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as you have set them up to a plan you do have the added confidence they are set correctly
thats a good starting point .
its when they are in unknown state that you can struggle
these bleed air to bypass the throttles so if open when should be shut you wil have idle and mixtures that you set
with a false air flow , yours sound as if you have taken the trouble to investigate and set up to a spec
so you are three steps in front on most owners thats good
Pete
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3 hours ago, Ian Foster said:
s that advice still current?
in the main having them shut means you can set the idle mixture ok, if they are open when they should be closed then you cant set the idle mixture
so current advise depends on whether you know if they are open or closed so the next step is undo the two screws to remove the unit then you can tickle the plunger if its off its seating then the nut must be tightened to close it
so that needs the plastic cover removed to access the adjusting nut
the TC does need sealing to carb body it uses 2 0 rings.
Pete
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as a 1500 does it have waxstat jets fitted can be a nightmare when old
simple cure is remove the jet assy. carefully uncrimp the base , remove the wax capsule
do keep the short metal spacer, replace the wax unit with 2 x1p peices
dont forget the spacer , recrimp the base , refit the assy , set both equally 2 to 3 full turns down from flush with the bridge
and fine tune when hot
cheap fix and really works do not buy daft priced conversion kits they are rubbish
if you dont have waxstats you can ignore all this
most 1500 do use a 88C stat as this was to improve emissions by making a weaker mixture possible
Pete
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seems its part of the oil gallery so next clue is what was its purpose
at 3/4x16 its meaningful and not a drilling to core the gallery but its so close to the filter zone
but obviously just not needed
was this from an very early form of a bypass oil filter before the side mounted full flow was developed ???
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if the simple cable doesnt fix it you are likely to have throttle plates fitted with the nasty poppet valves
if the spring fails you get a racing idle but if there is need for a clean it can upset normal idle
do mae sure no air cleaner gaskets are obstructing the carb front face
Pete
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sound like you need some slack in the throttle cable as it warms the cable pulls the idle up
Pete
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have you looked at wet suit material ?
Pete
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apart from its been ok for a while
you can add to the causes having the throttle discs fitted back to front so they cant seal fully
and hoping it doesnt have the nasty poppet valves to weaken on overrun
Pete
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yes saved that ,could prove useful
Pete
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1 minute ago, JohnD said:
It supposed to that, Pete!
but you dont really want it singing to you when there is no obstruction , and i cant repos the sensors
might try a diy shroud to mask /cowl the pick up zone
Pete
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fitted 4 sensors to the rear panel of the 2000 but it picks up the bumper but goes crazy when youre close to a wall
on the C5X you also get a generic arial view shows whats around you and doors opening ...How do they do that
Pete
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whilst the max centrifugal advance is around 3000rpm with a around 28/32 degs advance
do READ the test data in the WSM as this is mostly done DECELERATING
remember the only triumph ignition timing specification is ......static
moving away from spec for all the above reasons is fine if you have good ears and no worries about melting a crown
if you dont know , then its best not to mess with the unknown
happy christmas
Pete
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all copies of Club mags are available on line via the main club website
The Triumph Sports Six Club - Courier (tssc.org.uk)
Pete
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youre not alone i had this in the past , same problem all down to what IP thinks you are
re boot and all solved
my C5X says cant drive for 23mins when its doing an update but for a month none of them worked so it went in for a good kicking
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if you are going to set the dizzy by ear you can do this at idle so you dont upset your idle setting
its easy to over advance so from 'best 'back it of a good bit
and at 2500 on alight throttle you need to drop the vac unit pipe as that will be picking up vacuum and advancing the base plate
back to basics at 10-13 deg at idle /or static ...........it should run fine
Pete
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who remembers Shell with ICA added (some sort of ignition control addative) caused a lot of moderns to burn valves
or Pool Petrol now that would make it pink well
Pete
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have a browse at this site its mainly aimed at TR but the pictures and text is pretty standard good stromberg clues
Mechanical Tech Articles — Buckeye Triumphs
if the temp compensator plunger is open at normal temperatures you can never set the idle mixture as these bleed air
to bypass the throttle plates , remove the cover remove the unit ( 2 screws) and check the small plunger
is fully seated CLOSED
Pete dont get involved with testing just screw the small nut to close it for good it is a spin off of emission controls
to lean the mixture /raise the idle speed when when its a bit on the hot side
Pete
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most who have fitted SU to a GT6/Vitesse run into troubles as there is no triumph spec for that set up and headaches come with the swap
Strombergs are a well made and very reliable bit of kit to have all the troubles is down to incorrect settings or
meddling by the unknowing.
there are some simple diy checks you can do
you have been asked what air cleaners are fitted this can have a load of problems if non std.
do you have temperature compensators , small plastic capped unit on the side ??? these must be adjusted to be closed.
if a top adjustable CDSE take the air piston out ,check the small delrin washer ion the needle is adjusted flush with the base of the piston
if its a bottom adjuster CDS then the basic start is 3 turns down from flush.
rubber slivers cut from inside the fuell hose are a nightmare and block the back of the float needle valve
very likely after all the messing around .
Pete
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its looking good , often having a break revitalises the enthusiasm
pete
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all very nice but in a life time of ownership how often do you need to change these
Pete
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if you worry about air lock in the tube disconnect ,at the gauge hold over a jam jar and crank till oil arrives
then just re reconnect ............the miracle of simple bleeding
wont make any real difference but you will be happier
Pete
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7 hours ago, johny said:
as long as the total angle is correct?
yes thats how it all works out
Pete
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Exhaust Manifold
in Engine
Posted
any sealer on a exhaust gasket will break down and make a blow
as for the collectors these have many designs some are slip joints to allow for expansion some have a clamp you can use a past on these but they can be notoriously leaky and noisy and can drive you nuts
pete