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Pete Lewis

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Posts posted by Pete Lewis

  1. 1360 Herald Gearbox Oil Leak .. Copper washers??

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    agree its a level /filler 

    best done parked on the level ground,  access can be a fiddle  , easy if the tunnel is off

    many make a access opening in the tunnel  so checking is made easier 

    the input shaft is quite likely  a scroll not an oil seal so parked on inclines can show up as a leak

    when not running , as needs to rotate to spin the oil back into the case .

    the advantage is ,,,,,it cant wear out .

    the diff also has a level/filler  located just behind the N/s drive output shaft 

    best accessed by removing the rear wheel and look through the chassis.

    Pete

  3. 1360 Herald Gearbox Oil Leak .. Copper washers??

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    all the 3 rail  and other boxes have as jonny says a paper gasket 

    agree  the copper washer leak would be into the clutch hsg,  your leak is from the gasketed joint 

    some use a sealed this is not best as the faces can pant/shuffle and the sealer fails the bolts become almost loose   

    if you use a sealer on the paper gasket use a hardsetting like wellseal  no slippy silicon stuff

    Pete

     

  5. Saggy rear end ! 😂. Vitesse mk 2 conv

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    pictures off the ground are not going to help us with any solution

    one thing i would check is jack in the centre of the rear axle and check for lean at the front 

    then jack in the centre of the front and check for lean at the back 

    one culprit is a bent anti roll bar best disconnect on end see if that makes a change 

    with the car on the ground  does the supposed sag change if you reverse    incorrect rear toe will affect the wheel and body heights as the tyres try to converge

    or diverge depends on excess toe in  toe out at the rear 

    Pete

  7. Replacement horn relay.

    in Electrical System

    Posted · Edited by Pete Lewis

    there are 3.4"  and   2,6" the std one  rimmer sell both

    as said the column is not fixed it sits in a clamp that allows it to collapse  so get hold of the outer column and give it a firm shove /push wiggle in towards the dash it will and is supposed to shift under load   the inner shaft also has a slip joint which also collapses under load  this shaft joint has a simple but accurate

    way to set it up but yes they all will move in /out from the dash if you persuade it firmly 

    do you have a workshop manual   always usefull there are copies on line from steve http://vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals

    or get proper re prints from club shop or market places 

    and  a thought if the wheel is too close to the ring then the pencil will seem too long 

    Pete

     

     

    image.thumb.png.9bd1d1f6216fe173d12edfe4810665b5.png

  8. Matt Embleton

    in I thought I'd introduce myself

    Posted

    Hi  unravelling previous owner misguided jobs can be a seasons work of finding the snags and making a solution 

    its called the fun of ownership  Ha! 

    you seem to be on course for a smile when out in the Herald 

    get to know the car for a season before you jump into any   wild repairs or refits 

    Pete

  9. Wheel bearing or something else?

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    agree   all components and pivots /shafts  need a good pry bar with wheels/axles at running heights  no hanging down .

    on bearings its often noticed when spun by hand but there are two bearings in the trunion block 

    the main single row ball bearing and the needle rollers that steady the trunion 

    the ball race is a loose fit in the hsg.  but very tight on the drive shaft 

    this can take some work to shift it . there is an adaptor to work with the hub puller to help 

    it can be done with a big vice and a big  birmingham screwdriver , on refit use the hub /shaft nut to reposition 

    the trunion bearing and its back plate ,there is no location /positioning  shoulder on the shaft 

    Pete

  12. Horn Pencil Problem

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    the horn blowing will be due to lack of clearance between handwheel and the switch cowling  

    get hold of the outer tube and give it a firm wriggle downwards  the column and tube are colapsible 

    so they will move with strong firm efforts 

    there are two lengths of pencil  long and ...short 

    buy a short one 

    Pete

  13. Wheel bearing or something else?

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    the fact it varies dependant on the load does sound like wheel bearing ,thats a common way to identify which side,

    as its rear have look at the shoes  has the shoe been making contact with the drum centre ???

    remind me this isa MK1 ??   not rotaflex ??

    back plate can be incorrectly positioned on a MK1 shaft 

    Pete

  18. Diff replacement Mk 2 Vitesse

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    there is not a lot of clearance between the carier bolts and the coupling

    i had one unscrew and it locked the propshaft 

    the bolts are  4 off  special wedgelok with a  tapered shank as the carrier holes are bigger than the 3/8 bolt thread  and must use a internal star washer

    as they are 'thin' 

    Bolt - 132856 | Rimmer BrosBolt 

    Shakeproof Washer Internal 7/16" - GHF324 | Rimmer Bros

    if a std 3/8 bolt has been used you can run into a very noisy trouble 

     when it unscrews and the diff wont be correctly mounted with a skinny bolt in a big hole  !!!!

    Pete

     

  21. Quarterlight Latch Locking Mechanism

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    think youre on the right track  its years since i played with one 

    having twiddled many over the years on trucks and cars 

    i remember leaping out of a commer maxiload on test and my ring got hooked on one of these latches , nearly tore my finger off as ground and NDV were at a good streteeech !!!

    Pete

     

  24. Ongoing power drain issue

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    On 11/02/2024 at 14:14, jagnut66 said:

    disconnected the alternator (to rule out backflow), no effect. The coil, no effect. The radio, no effect. The starter motor, no effect.

    Then I disconnected the positive lead from the starter solenoid. with just the earth lead connected to the battery the volt reading started to go back up!?

    lets get back to basics 

    battery mains charging 14.2 - 15v   normal

    battery float charge will be less than charging voltage -  normal 

    disconnect battery check voltage .   leave disconnected for 2 hrs !  check voltage  if high regen is good  if lower you have a cell problem .

    connect battery with only the starter connected  . crank engine 10 seconds  should stay above 10.2 volts .if lower like 9.5v starter has issue , 9 and lower the battery is failing under load regen is around voltage 10.2 -10.8.

    connect alternator  leave exciter plug off  check voltage .leave overnight should drop .5v failing diodes 3v drop isnt uncommon . 

    report back after ,

     

    mick 

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