Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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you are correct but excessive hub end float will create a disc wobble that may induce a rattle from the pads as it all moves about .
it is just disc and pad clearance thats why it stops as soon as you lightly touch the pedal.
when jacked hold the wheel and feel the float it should be just detectable as a loose wobble at the rim you cant really measure it but the one flat back from a light nip is good enough.
you may even have a ring of rust on the outer periphery of the disc which needs chipping off (it flakes off easy)
shims with edge springs look like this and are the best for our cars ages
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i think poly are the best compromise and from what ive seen are sized as the originals so rack is firmer and the rack retention plates are in contact and the poly bush holds /covers the anti rattle plug
(as long as its not missing ) on the n/s of the tube whats not to like
Pete
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the problem with using fibre washers on either make of carb is the small contact area and the thing needs to be quite tight so fibre has a good chance of just splitting hence why alloy is much preferred
Pete
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you can often retune the rattle with turns , as this tends to load the disc on the outbord turn
you may need to recheck you have less bearing hub float but must have some
hand nip the castle nut and back off 1 or two flats there are two spilt pin holes in the stub to get fine adjustment
the spec is 0.002" to 0.008" float aim for as little as possible do not reduce the float to zero or you will soon seize the bearing onto the stub axle you dont want that to happen
Pete
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fuel heights will affect how each carb fuels
but if its running ok some variance in plug colour/sooting on an odd plug is more likely down to the sparks and the conditions of combustion /valves /rings/guides./dizzy/breathers etc
dont read all the waffle we put on here as a doctors almanac or you get all the problems self inflicted Ha !!
sleep easy Pete
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and many alloy clamps do not get anywhere near the rack locating plates they are too thin and rely fully of clamping the tube
the small anti rattle plug is located under the n/s rubber mount, fit a thin alloy mount and the plug drops out the tube hence the idea of a jubbly clip to retain it
or you get rack rattle on poor road surfaces
Pete
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this will be pad chatter can improve as pads bed in may be made worse by some disc runout
you could try Ceratec paste made by mintex do your squeal shims have a small edge loading spring leaf ??? they can help pad clatter and
there can be two sizes of pin hole , too small wont fit too large and the pads can clatter depends who supplied the pads
i assume on the Vit these are type 16 calipers unless its had some modifications and are they std pads or green stuff or mintex 1144 ?????
pad clatter is nothing to worry about its just annoying and dont discount wheel trims they can make a lot of clatter if not secure
Pete
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Dave i think you have your worry hat on
Pete
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this has an old gear so a flip will work why would anyone make a gear without the basic indexing solution makes no sense
sound more a myth than fact
Pete
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and as for Triumph manuals giving odd clues strombergs always used an alloy sealing washer never a fibre one
and if some plonker wants to suggest in a manual then they should back that up with a dimension for the thickness to a design /engineered tolerance
the 18mm is as we have said achievable by bending the float arm
long live the basics !!!! they work
Pete
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we painted sons first orrible nappy yellow Mini with Japlac from homebase a brush and mini sponge roller
it looked good, the sponge gives a nice orange peel finish (maybe more thiners needed ) but this cost less than £20 and took a day to turn it into a bright red _ white roof Mini it lasted 5 years
brush the edges and roller the main surfaces apart from a bit of flatting to prep this was a remarkable transformation for pea nuts
Pete
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agree as Johny says you bend the arm on a strom so washer thickness is of little consequence
Pete
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its been reported a number of times that you need to cut 3mm approx off the tube to get a smooth choke operation and no kink
seems its pretty common SU aftermarket spares problem
its something all you SU users need to be aware of
Pete
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we have spent most of the morning with a local 1500 sick as a pig
the main culprit amongst a number of now whats was the fuel pipe to the jet was seriously kinked under the spiral wrap
and luckily no waxstats to fix and a leaking rocker gasket upsetting the idle due to air ingress which raised an uncontrollable high idle
Pete
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to see if its tyre related the general test is to add 10psi and see if it has an effect on the noise/rhythm
worth a try
Pete
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we just need to try some things to help the "headache "
enjoy the Work and back to the head scratching we await the progress Ha !
Pete
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23 hours ago, johny said:
Have I got that right?
been to sleep since i did this but surely the crank remains at tdc its cam sprocket you have to adjust there is no other way ???
you could buy a vernier adjustable sprocket for a good few ££££
Pete
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thats good if black only fit the one way and they cant puncture
i still have this feeling its not the floats/valve thats the problem as you have exhausted just about every possibility there and its not solve anything
need to look outside the box like can you try a gravity jockey fuel container to show they dont leak as gravity fed ???
Pete
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the floats on stroms are generally solid foam so cant puncture(well thats the idea)
set float highest point at 18mm from the body face
which way up are the arm rivets ( assuming you have the floats with double needle arms )
TR250_TR6+Carbs+Part+II.pdf (squarespace.com)
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1 hour ago, nicrguy1966 said:
Any idea how much of a tooth 6 degrees is?
i make it 42 teeth so thats 8.57deg per tooth so yours is around 3/4 of a tooth out so may need the sprocket turning over and much playing and cursing
every time the chain falls off
Pete
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and the olde mechanical pump will cease to operate when the feed is cut by the float needle and justs holds line pressure produced by the spring
what happens with a Hucco when there is no demand , does it stop or keep going
im thinking the pump is the common denominator here not the Strombergs . proven by you have tackled the float needles till blue in the face and its not solved the leakage
can yo put the old mechanical pump so youre back to a triumph design and see how that works
why did you need the electric pump . ????
Pete
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most std plugs used would be a NGK BP5/6ES do not use any with an R in the suffix our HT is corked up if you get sold some as ok they will weaken the spark
there are some you tube on testing how bad this is .
NGK are not glazed now (as many are not) as injection doesnt give the rich sooty problems of carb fueling on choke so the process was discontinued
if the engine is run frequenlty hot and cleared out they will last for years , if its sick they wont last long
Pete
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there is no simple way to strip a stromberg float needle valve they tend to be a sealed unit
to have so much trouble i still have a feeling the culprit is elsewhere but the suns out
Pete
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yes . no, yes , er no, it will be fine, no it wont ,
the answer is reset the cam sprocket reset the timing then tell us !!!
a worn chain will make the cam late but not as much as 6deg maybe get a chain as a standby
you understand the sprocket holes are indexed so you can get something like 1/4 tooth increments by swapping bolt holes and you can turn the thing over and
get more .
Pete
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Broken boot strut bracket
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
these are prone to fracture and you may get more life if you heat and bend a bit of decent steel strip DIY fashion