Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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simplest option is a suction one one the screen
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here is a few clues about what happens from a problem misalignment is on one of them Ha !!
Pete
clutch 3.pdf clutch diag 1.pdf clutch diag 2.pdf clutch failures 4.pdf
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and any geometry checks have the old 150lbs on each seat to set the static ride height before you measure or adjust anything
you obviously have replacement springs and shockers fitted the originals are long gone so there is pleanty of possible
spring lengths and shocker platforms to be incorrect
front spring fitted lengths are in the manual
pete -
you can drill a new pin position to wear in a new place ...easy
we have replaced the fork pins in the past with cut down clevis pins
having the correct brg is a plus , these wear patches all alter the angle the throwout arm works at and yes there is lost leverage
but wont make the chatter we can see .but will give heavier pedal loads
the wear is pretty normal after all these years but fixable
Pete
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yes buy some nice gloves and a beany hat ...far better value/use Ha
Pete
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i dont see any reason to have any different mcyl push rods
have you checked the hub float is it causing pad push back ??
sequence is immaterial but you have to start somewhere
do make sure the Mcyl and pedal return fully not a stiff pedal pivot can stop the recouperation
pete
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waste of time , wont help the thermostat , when its shut there is no flow through the rad anyway.
on a bad point blanking a radiator can cause fan blade fractures
i would avoid the idea sorry
Pete
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bit late on this as broadband collapsed for two days
the amount of thrust bearing shake has to be down to diaphragm finger run out
the missing 3/8bolt is a significant problem and will allow misalignment
throw out brg should be 19mm thick many new are only 15mm the solution is add a washer under the speherical post
to space it a little futhere away from the gearbox face .
if the throwout carrier has no dimple to stop rotation you can drill and fit a splitpin in the groove .
chirping is normally due to the fingers skidding on the new bearing hence a small pedal load makes it spin ok and the noise stops ,
your throwout lever jiggling around it not normal and needs a solution somewhere there is a runout between fingers and brg.
Pete
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all the kits sold are a one size fits all so its just a universal kit and certainly not model specific
you can fit it ant way you fancy , you probably will need to drill the manifold , use a greased drill and tap to catch the swarf
as for servo position , well theres a whole multitude of ideas over the clutch master cyl next to the battery
some even fitted in the boot .
you will need a hose /threaded adaptor as thats not normally in the kit
pete
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i can time a cam but plastering is a No No , unless you want humps and bumps
Pete
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and just what filters were on and what have you used to replace ??
the troubles with SU HS6 on a 2ltr is there is no spec for this set up unless you compare to the 2500S
and thats a very differing beast , 1.5 on the 2ltr are more than adequate
most end up replacing back to stock to get reliable running (as triumph engineered)
it just works , "must have " ideas of bigger do normally end up with a headache
Pete
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its best to equal up each side having quite differing may side load the conrods from a nice central running
its the crank thats worn the repair lugs is not unusual i have hd some weld build up to achieve loctions
it works well
so a replacement crank would solve and you keep the oe motor
Pete
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aha ............. so they are type 14 someone will need them
there are some very Dodge'y ( and Commer) guys on here at times ha !!!
i did say !!!!
Pete
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oil consumption figures given by triumph were horrendous i guess to waive any warranty ???
much worse than your 450/ltr is the smiths valve working OK no holes in the diaphragm ???? or misplaced
non of that will give you unexpected power loss even knackered rings will be a progressive loss not just up hill
seems more towards a fueling problem than any wear and tear
from my experience the 1600 never needed any top up and the current 2000mk2 probably uses 50ml /1000 so needs a little pretty in frequently
Pete
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ive seen far worse that those i would refit and get driving
dont expect plugs in a 50 yr old car to look like the images around
mine checked yesterday runs like a dream but the plugs are looking a bit grotty
but until they play up they will stay put .
Pete
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and dont forget the lack of glazing on the plug electrode insulation seems to cause the plug to breakdown
if its a bit on the rich oily side
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always worth checking the coil is correct polarity ie neg to dizzy
has i guess the sounds of the dreaded slivers have been breeding
have a good trip home and then you can rip it apart ...or not
Pete
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one of the old problems with accuspark was the irregular spacing/indexing of the trigger magnets on the rotor
so timing was variable to each cylinder
this was reported in classic magazine no idea if its verified
but might explain the odd results across the 6
Pete
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running a white from the ign switch to the coil +ve is the normal way most would take to byass, just detach the ballast
from the short pig tail at the switch ,leave in place should you wish to return it some day.
you will need a 3 ohm coil
the white /yellow from the solenoid could be disconnected as the 12v boost for the ballast idea is not now required
bolting the coil to the block is actually a cooling idea its on a substantial mount and heat from the coil is passed to the block which has a cooling system and keeps a stable temperature this might sound a bit daft but thats the reason for the design used by any others of the day
Pete
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two things come to mind....have you checked the crank has no excessive end float
and check the withdrawl fork pivot pin is in place and not dropped/dropping out
the end of the pin can be seen in the clutch Hsg. o/s of the casting yoy should see the hole it must have a pin in it these can fail and drop out the lever then
can go solid/stiff Clutch Housing and Operating Lever to FR33413 : Canley Classics item 12
Pete
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what workshop manual are you using
steves download covers Most Triumph Car Service manuals - Vitessesteve
you may not have a horn relay many dont havethem some are removed , some never had one (ive not checked specific model year diagrams )
red is generally just side lights
brown main power feed from the battery/fuse /solenoid used to power up the many .
purple is feed to horns and interior lighting
green and colour is indicators /fuel/temp etc.
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agree with the idea on the old points after all they as a system have only lasted 50 years whats not to like
all the mass market elecy units are a electronic switch to replace the mechanical points they little else apart from what Jonny has stated
makes you lazy at servicing
Pete
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the 1500 is designed to run on the leaner side of whatever, hence they use a 88c thermostat etc as the car is in the beginning's of the emission control era.
i would expect on a fast cruise the colour will be lighter .
think you need to stop checking and do more driving Ha !
finding just what needle and spring is fitted will be a good call .
Pete
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only had experience with aldon on the 1600 rorty Vit6 perfect for 10 years
current 2000 mk2 has lumenition optical and has been faultless since 2014
recent repairs to a spitfire had a failed 123 fitted with permanent earthed dizzy feed and fitted a accuspark to replace it which needed a new module after a days work
this was soon replaced by supplier but fit an old slave from a herald and that worked fine .
so quality looked good but didnt work well at all .
the idea that things fail under a hot bonnet has to be a bit of a myth most all work in the temperature range on normal driving (the fails will be down to a number of other things }
as for ballast many elec units work on a voltage range of 6 - 18v and with a ballasted feed on a poor battery it is easy to drop the coil voltage below the 6v
operation range it is generally accepted you need to drop/bypass the unit feed to a full 12v supply and use a 3 ohm coil ( the ballasted one is 1.5ohms
and if fed with 12v will double the HT blow rotors and fail dizzy caps and the higher current will blow leccy modules and burn points
they do need to be matched and not mixed ,
Pete
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Clutch Budgie Squeak!
in Engine
Posted
if you use a spit pin just open the legsthen it cant fall out early cars had a small spiral roll pin ,
and the misalignment due to wrong sized dowel bolt would make the concentrity between clutch cover and throw out bearing very dubious and can end up with the clutch disc hub fracturing .
certainly it wont help but easy to fix , just find the 3/8" hole its there ...somewhere
Pete