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Pete Lewis

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis

  1. just be aware some refurbished racks just get a clean spray of paint 

    there are two ratio on for 4 cyl and lower ratio for 6 cyl  ( due to engine weight ) 

    6 cyl rack should have a  double groove  in the input shaft spline to identify it is a different ratio

    if they say they are all the same steer well clear they certainly are not

    you can reset the sperical ball joints and replace the idler brgs  and re shim the damper slipper  by 

    carefull DIY    you cant easilly replace the outer n/s tube bush  if its worn 

    most recons will never see a new rack 

    pete

     

     

  2. Oh graham ... Ha     awarded   Im a  silly  sausage    100 times  and    see me after school 

    that springy bit has been left out before 

    it holds the outer tube but still allows it to collapse along with the inner slip joint 

    suppose its quite clever 

    Pete 

    (up early and trying to master a new laptop as a windows update screwed my Dell the whole 

    windows operating system is blocked and unable to reboot anything   Grrrr 

  3. if you remove the instrument the rim will rotate to remove the glass ( can be stuck with degraded rubber seals ) but you can prise the rim lugs to release it  take the glass out, undo the two srews in the back and you have the work in your hands 

    some carefully applied lubricant on the main drive will maintain its life , i wont recomend you strip 

    one down if its beyond simple recovery best to send it to speedy cables or JDO  etc.

    never remove the needle or the hair spring unwinds and you wont know where to reposition it .

    dont get grease on the alloy drive disc or its magnet 

    you can oi anywhere else ok

    Pete

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  4. using a relay implanted in to act as a feed reduces the current through the old contacts to a minimal 

    the main load is passed through the relay only a small current is used to trigger the relay so the this helps all our old switch gear 

    be it horn or lights  

    Pete

  5. you need to tighten the cable with the drums locked  so the clevis is just a neat fit in the lever hole,   if you can see slack its too loose 

    what you have done is above and better than many achieve in correcting the problems bits but i think you have the secondary cable a bit slack 

    with 9 clicks   thats too many and once you de adjust the locked drums will get far worse 

    Pete

  6. i would drill and tap the manifold (use a well greased drill to collect swarf)  

    you will need a restrictor in the supply pipe  many add a short bit of brake pipe and squash it with pliers till you get a steady reading or the needle will flutter a lot 

    then driving with the highest vacuum is no fun at all 

    Pete

  7. dave if you get wooly running when in traffic with a mechanical fan then it points its set too rich    its all designed to run at 82c  there is no summer winter spec   but 

    based on overall climate make the engine run at 78c the cooler spec and you will need to richen it more   which wont help ypur problem 

    i would lean her off and raise the idle a bit  as a first step

    Pete

  8. we had acase with a 1300 fwd when the flywheel made contact with the back plate and stalled the engine 

    yes the thrusts had dropped out , the crank had worn down the main brg. cap lugs? that locate the thrusts from rotating  

     

    we welded up some diy protrusions and fettled the lumpy work to resemble the original and the motor went on for 130,000 miles before getting scrapped 

    so yes if the cap has some contact destruction its easy to rebuild it wit some care build of weld and  not  scrap the engine .

    Pete

  9. all i remember of a visit to Charmouth (well not really) was some geezer with big motor bike fitted with some proximity alarm  which kept repeating 

    Move away from the Bike it is armed ......so loud the grockles just kept taunting it ,  the amusment didnt last long 

    but we did walk the shores and never found a dinosaur footprint 

    have a nice holiday 

    Pete

  10. thermostats modulate  thats they open and close as cooler water enters the head it closes and reopens when the setting is reached 

    leaner engines of the 70s mostly run hotter 88c than earlier engines in uk are 82c  all pretty standard stuff of the era

    if you look in the rad header /filler on a hot engine you will see the flow across the rad tubes flow and ebb as the stat controls the temperature 

    its not just case of open or shut  but anywhere in  between 

    Pete

  11. i am surprised a good pull on a socket wrench  wont shift the nut  seem to remember two AF sizes  15/16" or 1.1/8 " get someone  to hold the wheel firmly

    as you apply the torque or you just wind up the steering with lost effort .

    then a real good wiggle /waggle on the handwheel to free it off the splines ,and you end up sitting in the back with a wheel in your hands 

    so it pays to spin the nut on a couple of turns .

    torque on refitting is only 28-30 lbft    ( just a light hand tight )  no gorilla   hands here 

    Pete

  12. on some only one carb will have a fast idle cam , as the throttle and choke are all linked up  so what happens on one happens on the other

    yes there are many variations over the years

    to balance you only need the idle screw the choke fast idle should have always a small gap between choke cam and its adjustable screw

    the choke should have no connection with basic balancing   which relly just needs back the idle screw to just off/ wind it in 1.5 turns  then clamp the links so both throttles are in th same place  

    you dont need any siily equipment to achieve the basics 

    Pete

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