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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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whine is normally bearings
the most likely being the pinion outer
due to reliance on splash fed lube
you can change the outer without upseting the mounting distance or backlash setting
any others need accurate setting up and is not most DIY possible .
pete
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jeff get well soon
too many classic owners joining the Hospital clubs
pete
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just be aware some refurbished racks just get a clean spray of paint
there are two ratio on for 4 cyl and lower ratio for 6 cyl ( due to engine weight )
6 cyl rack should have a double groove in the input shaft spline to identify it is a different ratio
if they say they are all the same steer well clear they certainly are not
you can reset the sperical ball joints and replace the idler brgs and re shim the damper slipper by
carefull DIY you cant easilly replace the outer n/s tube bush if its worn
most recons will never see a new rack
pete
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Oh graham ... Ha awarded Im a silly sausage 100 times and see me after school
that springy bit has been left out before
it holds the outer tube but still allows it to collapse along with the inner slip joint
suppose its quite clever
Pete
(up early and trying to master a new laptop as a windows update screwed my Dell the whole
windows operating system is blocked and unable to reboot anything Grrrr
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if you remove the instrument the rim will rotate to remove the glass ( can be stuck with degraded rubber seals ) but you can prise the rim lugs to release it take the glass out, undo the two srews in the back and you have the work in your hands
some carefully applied lubricant on the main drive will maintain its life , i wont recomend you strip
one down if its beyond simple recovery best to send it to speedy cables or JDO etc.
never remove the needle or the hair spring unwinds and you wont know where to reposition it .
dont get grease on the alloy drive disc or its magnet
you can oi anywhere else ok
Pete
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mostly due to speedo head seizure
pete
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its the slip clip that fits in the lower facia mount allows the column to collapse
pete
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setting up the damper shims is quite easy i would suggest you start from scratch
get the basics right before you jump
Pete
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using a relay implanted in to act as a feed reduces the current through the old contacts to a minimal
the main load is passed through the relay only a small current is used to trigger the relay so the this helps all our old switch gear
be it horn or lights
Pete
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petrol has always reacted with paint it comes from a similar base , generally once celly has hardened its ok
was the rattle can a recent job ???
Pete
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i only say this as one end is soldered the other end has the longer brass brush to wear on the column ring
use it solder down and that wears quickly ad the thing flies apart
Pete
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the 15deg is to make sure the pull has the best advantage , so you pul from 10 oclock to 12 not 11 to 1 if youhave a clock !!!
its imortant to get the best leverage but not to a degree or two wont hurt
Pete
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you need to tighten the cable with the drums locked so the clevis is just a neat fit in the lever hole, if you can see slack its too loose
what you have done is above and better than many achieve in correcting the problems bits but i think you have the secondary cable a bit slack
with 9 clicks thats too many and once you de adjust the locked drums will get far worse
Pete
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ian make sure the pencil is the right way up
copaslip is an anti seize compound not a lubricant
Pete
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i would drill and tap the manifold (use a well greased drill to collect swarf)
you will need a restrictor in the supply pipe many add a short bit of brake pipe and squash it with pliers till you get a steady reading or the needle will flutter a lot
then driving with the highest vacuum is no fun at all
Pete
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dave if you get wooly running when in traffic with a mechanical fan then it points its set too rich its all designed to run at 82c there is no summer winter spec but
based on overall climate make the engine run at 78c the cooler spec and you will need to richen it more which wont help ypur problem
i would lean her off and raise the idle a bit as a first step
Pete
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we had acase with a 1300 fwd when the flywheel made contact with the back plate and stalled the engine
yes the thrusts had dropped out , the crank had worn down the main brg. cap lugs? that locate the thrusts from rotating
we welded up some diy protrusions and fettled the lumpy work to resemble the original and the motor went on for 130,000 miles before getting scrapped
so yes if the cap has some contact destruction its easy to rebuild it wit some care build of weld and not scrap the engine .
Pete
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all i remember of a visit to Charmouth (well not really) was some geezer with big motor bike fitted with some proximity alarm which kept repeating
Move away from the Bike it is armed ......so loud the grockles just kept taunting it , the amusment didnt last long
but we did walk the shores and never found a dinosaur footprint
have a nice holiday
Pete
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thermostats modulate thats they open and close as cooler water enters the head it closes and reopens when the setting is reached
leaner engines of the 70s mostly run hotter 88c than earlier engines in uk are 82c all pretty standard stuff of the era
if you look in the rad header /filler on a hot engine you will see the flow across the rad tubes flow and ebb as the stat controls the temperature
its not just case of open or shut but anywhere in between
Pete
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Happy Birthday then you will soon be catching me up Ha !!
Pete
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i am surprised a good pull on a socket wrench wont shift the nut seem to remember two AF sizes 15/16" or 1.1/8 " get someone to hold the wheel firmly
as you apply the torque or you just wind up the steering with lost effort .
then a real good wiggle /waggle on the handwheel to free it off the splines ,and you end up sitting in the back with a wheel in your hands
so it pays to spin the nut on a couple of turns .
torque on refitting is only 28-30 lbft ( just a light hand tight ) no gorilla hands here
Pete
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if you return to your original 1st post click the 3 dots to the right and you can edit the title to read Locks
if that helps everyone
Pete
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on some only one carb will have a fast idle cam , as the throttle and choke are all linked up so what happens on one happens on the other
yes there are many variations over the years
to balance you only need the idle screw the choke fast idle should have always a small gap between choke cam and its adjustable screw
the choke should have no connection with basic balancing which relly just needs back the idle screw to just off/ wind it in 1.5 turns then clamp the links so both throttles are in th same place
you dont need any siily equipment to achieve the basics
Pete
A persistent wheel squeak
in General
Posted
i have told Nick i may have brain fog on why i had these spare
he was going to try them if they are no good the bin is calling time ha
Pete