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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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1 hour ago, Roger said:
explain to me why the float valves below are called a JET in the ad?
must be the dreaded fibre washer thats it
all a bit like my typing 3000 letters a minute if you want it in words about 25 seems right Ha!
I wouldnt worry we all get the gist of whatever is said ...with a pinch of salt as they say
sorry you have jet lag !!!!
Pete
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no the vac unit is only an economy device to advance when cruising has absolutley no effect on power performance or acceleration
it can add 4mpg to your mpg nothing else
holed diaphragm or misplaced sounds likely was it ok before you had the flooding ??
Pete
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pleased you have some solution and not knowing why or what is all part of the fun
many have bag fulls of used /unused replacements kept for the "what if" and never use them all.
its a trait of it may be useful one day be it needle valves or odd bits of wood
glad you have got the smile back
Pete
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have to say messing with the control box can end up in tears
they can be very finicky
Pete
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we have two in sunny bedfordshire if your passing ???
Pete
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if you fancy a risky operation it has been done by using the cars weight on a jack to unload the spring but you need to be super careful
or you get a big boing and a headache
remove the shocker shaft nut and drop the suspension until all spring load is free then remove the shocker/spring assy from the wishbones
this is not a recommended but if stuck in the desert with no assistance you have to take the world by its £$$%^&*
claw type wont work as there is insufficient gap as the spring tends to go coil bound
there was a method of making a rig with a pair of old disc brakes + studding looks ok but but general feeling is they are brittle casting and could easily fracture
time for bed said Zebedee !!!
Pete
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you could knock the studs out of the lamp base and fit rivnuts in the body
and grease the screws you use
Pete
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it does show what they did to prove products in the 50s
Pete
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bit worrying who has the other half of a cut and shut case
Pete
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they have your name on no idea of £££ ( but PM your address please
they were for use on my Vitesse 6 that had type 16s fitted so fine for the 2 ltr unified calipers
if you need to upgrade the braking mintex 1144 really have the grip to surprise you can be costly but make a heck of a difference when in modern traffic
available when you next need pads from club shop and many others
if you dont want to stop try some green stuff easy to clean off the wheels but its tally ho when its stopping ,not just awfull stuff
Pete
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just found a axle set of the sprung edge shims up for grabs i dont need them
Pete
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it does flex a lot and has a rather ropey rubber pad to help support the end on the boot panel
making a simple L bracket out of a decent bit of 3mm plate will last better
even more than the 50m yrs of the original
pete
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thats the plan
its not just triumph the idea is used on others racks too
the idler end has a sprung shoe damper the passenger end is just a rod in a bush so it has clearance that can on poor surfaces set up a clatter
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10 hours ago, Ian Foster said:
A steer on a supplier for those anti rattle shims please.
Ian having fun club shop are flat
these show some odd wire spring still looking for what i like it was common on avengers etc in the day and i had some on my vit+type 16 s im still looking
here is some but did marina use type 16 as per vitesse or typpe 14s ?????
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its a good case to have used a 6 hex not a bi hex socket then not so easy to round off the corners
maybe one of the multifit one from many suppliers even amazon one size fits all sockets will grip ??
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i imagine the rubber mount gives the little plug some damping loading against the rack
pete
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thats agood plan pleased its solved
Pete
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Aldi are selling some this week £19 or was it Lidl ??? sorry been to both
Pete
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yes agree it is just a simple plastic plug held in by the rubber mount
its not got any fixing , just adds a little load to the free end of the rack or not if its escaped
Pete
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some pads can have a plasticised /coating that from experience is as much use as a chocolate tea pot
i would sand that off and just use the steel shim you have and re try again
that bubbled crinkled finish will give you problems the simple flat shim with no relief to give the pad pressure a sort of leading edge seems pretty useless
you can see the reilief shape in my picture they are the bee's knees in anti squeal design (in my view )
Pete
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2 hours ago, johny said:
thats my style of driving.
Time for a BRAKE then
Kit Kat or Waggon wheel
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the dizzy has no idea where the spark is needed you can have the gear miles out you just rotate the body to get your number1 TDC +10deg advance and No1 HT lead where ever it happens to fall.but must line up the rotor and the cap terminal the only deciding factor is the vac unit will foul the engine block/alternator etc if the body needs to be extremely out if the HT leads shown as no1 at 11oclock happen to be at 3 oclock who cares so long as the 153624/1342 are in the right order
im not a originalist just a realist
but the cam timing and ign timing are all/both needed at the right time
Pete
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moss europe show the anti rattle plug as 128001 not many list this little sod
Pete
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and while you are in there have alook at the size of pad hole and the diameter of your pins due to mix ups with metric and imperial calipers
they should be a nice clearance not a rattling one size fits all , too many pads sold with wrong pin sizes
club shop sell pin kits and show there are two options dont know if they have aflat shim or a side sprung one need to ask Julian at HQ
Pete
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Lack of power
in Engine
Posted
have a look at the size of the small port next to the throttle plates where the vacuum for this is generated its so small it wont have any real effect on mixture
and it only sucks when the throttle plates are close to the port for all other throttle openings its dormant maybe a little air from the incoming manifold depression
you can forget that as any power loss culprit .
Pete