Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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thanks Dave at 0.010" you wont get a problem its probably been like that for years
the only way to stop wear is to not use the clutch ...thats not very practical !!
pete
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did the accuspark plugs have an R in suffix ??
have to say obscure look a likes from where ever are best avoided
there can be enough troubles with tried and tested using a china copy is asking for headaches
our low HT will always struggle with any Resistive plugs ,
do you still have std plugs or some electronic unit ???
every classic forum ( all marques) has poor accuspark reports
they look the part but can be worse than troublesome
Pete
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on orig metal covers check the cover gasket face is quite flat , its easy for the gasket to roll out of place from the groove it sits in . only solution is to apply sealer and tape it in place till it sets
after all the years they do get distorted especially the top where over tightening has deformed the cover, easy to knock out on the bench .
if you have an alloy cover then you need a flat neoprene lifetime gasket
Pete
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Dtypes are pretty bullet proof if stored dry a good oil and a quick check in the filter and check the solenoid travel
there is little reason why it should be a problem IF i need one this would be on my list
but you do need a gearbox with an OD mainshaft ( tkc923) fitted
Pete
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we used them on trucks too commer/dodge was a std fitting in the 70/90s
remember testing lucas and clearhooters out on an airfield 50yds or so away
on the basis we couldnt hear either we bought the cheapest ..clear hooters as a base low with highs added on certain models no idea of the type numbers
too many years gone by
Pete
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most tyre bays will advise if the rim is safe or not the main problem will be the sealing surface.
removing to repaint later wont be a problem , just a cost
it would be worth have one tyre removed and inspect the insides of the rim then decide what to do
most budget tyres will give a good service as you will have an tyre age problem well before you wear them out .
Pete
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Chris is going to sort out some/a date and providing Im free we will advertise in courier and on here i guess on club FB (i dont do FB)
so its watch this space
Pete
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are you saying they have turned Bern into burgers ???
all that need sorting out sometime soon maybe
Pete
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there is an idea we are thinking of doing TWIDDLE DAY at club HQ these were good fun a few years ago pre covid etc .
so is there any interest , ???
no dates set and we wont be doing engine rebuilds just general settings twiddles and wave some magic fingers over peoples problems
so who is interested ??
answers on a post card
Pete and Son Mick
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if raising the other piston does nothing then something is very wrong
thats if you give the piston a good heave up ,do they both sit level when idling ???
the trick is to be very touchy feely, and raise the piston lightly just a couple of mm
if rich the idle should give a hint of a rise
if lean it will give the hint of a drop
if nothing changes its about spot on
again these are smal changes you need to be quick at recognising , no big lifts or dramatic changes
so when you say you lifted .....how far ????
and if setting mixtures you need the filters on and use the lifting pins , with filters off you are proving nothing
Pete
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it can be down to the plugs many made these days do not have the ceramics glazed as fuel injection will not over fuel
the unglazed insulation gets sooted on choke and it never recovers well even when cleaned the contaminant shorts the spark .
maybe a good blast with a blow lam may help this (not proven) some makes do glaze Bosch had some but its getting a rare find these days
on many this doesnt give a problem but some cars suffer badly with plug fouling misfires just some ramblings
Pete
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agree any rubber strap and clamp will work they all should have a support from that hole
good to see the mount has the correct star washers fitted
the 4 bolts should be a wedgelock have a tapered shank as the 4 holes are bigger than the 3/8" bolts thread
you dont want one to unscrew, makes a wonderous racket and you grind to a stop
easy to check while its off
Pete
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depends on whether you can read them out !!!!
Pete
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additives are really not needed there is years of lead memory in the head and valve seats
i would save and keep your wallet closed , using E5 is the best move
if you grind or reface the seats then some memory can be lost
over the past 20 odd years I have never experienced stale fuel even when left over winter with a odd start up every couple of months . the fuel pump will need priming to refill the float chambers but always started on the button
Esso 97+ does not have any E added if that helps
I have always used sainsbugs 97 E5 always works for me
Pete
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On 29/02/2024 at 13:50, Colin Lindsay said:
equivalent of modern-day VW Delftweiss so easily
so do the indicators still work ok ???
Pete
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get it to its best running mixture , if its rich ...its wrong
if it stalls it will read higher temps. as the block heats the coolant thats now not circulating. same as when you switch off .
wind the jet up till it falters the idle and richen 1/2 turn or set to best
Pete
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a too slow "fast idle" will soot the plugs very quickly needs to be 1500 and more on full choke
do make sure the jets pop back to the adjusting nut after using the choke
a quick prod with a finger works to check jet sticking
and dont use plugs with an R in the suffix
Pete
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odd that the dvla says tax due april 1988 around the time you sold her
Pete
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and dont ignore the accurate dimensional mounting distance settings you need to have to correctly mesh and shims to preload the gear sets
not for the faint hearted unless you want to make a real whiner
Pete
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do we start Twiddle days again ????
Peter
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Im on a diet !!!!
Pete
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its not as if there are any service jobs beyond the realms of diy with a few idea from a wsm.
it makes no sense to not have an Mot /safety check
who ever knows if the brakes are balanced or even inoperative
a simple MOT gives you all youneed to know
be responsible is the clues here
Pete
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how ever you fit/align it is most important the tubular bush in the rear lug is positioned to be equally spaced either side of the lug this allows shift due to heat expansion
get it wrong and you will break the rear lug off
dump the regulator and just use a higher grade wire direct from alt to the solenoid
just join (small) the warning lamp wires from the regulator together to use the orig warning lamp
Pete
Hot stalling
in Fuel System
Posted
you need to correct the rich mixture before you mess about with shields and fans
Pete