[O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type]

12 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

Pete Don't tell me you took a couple of parts off the assembly line

that was Jonny Cash   one piece at a time 

Pete

[Ignition Timing]

just use your ears  as said   simpluze 

Pete

[Gradual loss of brake performance]

thanks Doug   saved me cranking up the tin snail desktop

going to try a better processor next week should mean i dont have time to make a sandwich 

between clicks its W10 and hard drive but very little stored but it needs an enema

Pete

[Gradual loss of brake performance]

all new pads and shoes do need to bed it to be best effective

there is a mintex requirement i have posted a few times but im on laptop now and i dont have the link

some just need normal useage  and some need more aggressive bedding to condition the pad surface .,

mintex1144 need some serious stops , if you get them smoking its a stop too far

but getting some good heat in makes them work well tere after

when im on the desktop i will post the bedding clues tomorrow 

make of it what you will

Pete

[How many has your car had?]

Dave this is your names sake  David  from canley classics ...keep it quiet  Ha !

should be your favourite place for spares  

Welcome to Canley Classics : Canley Classics

Pete

[O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type]

these design SA141 type switches were commonly used in all sorts of applications  

i have one with a 3" threaded , no idea what to use it on , came off the truck assy line years ago

and memory fog now.

Pete

[Gradual loss of brake performance]

i think this has all the hall  marks of things like green stuff

easy to clean the wheels but hopeless as a brake compound

1144 are the best but as you say pricey,  

note on the mintex box it will say not for road use as they contain undesirable particles 

you must bed them in firmly with somefast hard pull ups dont stop  let them cool and repeat 

2 /3 times then they work like magic 

good set of std  mintex or branded pads may be your answer can be much cheaper and might suit your but steer clear of any green types if you want to have brakes 

Pete

driving 

[Noisy in 1st and Reverse]

i would with any intermittent noise check for exhaust fouling on the chassis 

when  bit of engine torque tips the engine and you get contact 

Pete

[Advice for setting fuel mixtures and idle speed for spitfire 1500]

breather hoses to the carbs is generally a push fit but nothing to stop adding a clip

its never good when you check and change with no real culprit found

but with all the usuals in place and ok the 1000 idle is a bit high

is there some slack in the throttle cable if too taut the heat can make the cable open the throttles 

needs some slack.

but drive her for the season is a good plan and see how it all behaves rather than jump 

around all the ideas so get yourself and the car settled for a good few miles is a good plan 

Pete

[Colour matched paint]

club shop can supply colour matched aerosols but they will need a small part to send off to get scanned 

Pete

[Vitesse Front Carb Float Valve always leaks]

the dreaded  rubber slivers sit behind the float needle .

every time you mess with the fuel hoses you are likely to make them ,they breed like rabbits 

i would take the valve out and pump a few good squirts of fuel into a jar see if you catch some

Pete

[GT6 Engine Return Basics]

i would check that fitting the clamp may raise the dizzy and solve the gap

whats the gap with no dizzy fitted ???  same or better ???

just a thought 

thats a big gap to fill with silly gaskets 

Pete

[Body Tub Spread - Fixed]

ive said many times putting a 50 yr old wonky body on a 50 yr old wonky chassis 

using vast numbers of solid spacer packing on each rubber pad to get the tubs to align then

make up a contraption to pull the B post/wing tops inboard to cure tub spread is pretty normal 

when the base of the doors are proud  to the B post 

its not a ventilation aid !!!!

 

Pete

 

 

[Saggy rear end ! 😂. Vitesse mk 2 conv]

been to have a look and its not really saggy but has 6 " rims and wide tyres so they foul up

on the wing flange on bumps etc  there is an observed  obvious excess toe in on the rears which is not helping

im not happy with the rim offset but thats what we have to work with 

the cars coming over to me one sunny day so we can at least set up the toe which will help with some better clearance 

see where from there 

Pete

 

[No start]

i wouldnt bet on that 

but check the last twiddle.......... can be embarising 

Pete

[GT6 Engine Return Basics]

just check its not the dizzy  clamp thats giving you some fitting restrictions 

pete

[O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type]

just to add   the flatness of the top cover will control where the upright aligns

2nd option is slot holes or bend the bracket 

Pete

[No start]

have alook at the HT lead to the coil   can be very green inside 

check the points have not closed up 

check there is a carbon brush /contact in the head of the cap

does the rotor arm have a rivet in it ???

do the jets drop fully  when you pull the choke ??? and return when pushed in 

is there a chance on rebuild it is just set far too lean ???

Pete

 

[Not an owner....yet...]

its the green cover   does 1200/12/50  13/60   Vitesse6  and spitfires  1 2 3

dont understand the club listing   !!!!  its not conclusive 

rimmers sell the same reprint 

Triumph Workshop Manual - Spitfire Mk1 Mk2 Mk3 and Herald (rimmerbros.com)

[Thoughts from a newbie]

there is nothing in your profile to suggest which triumph we could offer help 

we need to know which model as service clues are often model specific

Pete

 

[No start]

grose used to be good but recent years has seen  them as  often quite useless

do check the air filter gaskets are not upside down 

Pete

[Real world acceptability of crankshaft end float]

until Dave manages to give a accurate endfloat this is all hear say 

Dave  feels its +0.003" more than what ,     which specification are we working on here ???

with the variation in specs in the data its quite possible this is perfectly fine

I repaired a 1300 fwd with dropped thrusts , welded replacement lugs on the brg cap reground the crank and it went from stalling with the flywheel fouling the back plate to a life of over 100k till the body fell apart ,   not all make for a scrap block 

Pete

 

 

[Body Tub Spread - Fixed]

thats a result  Paul,    and adds one more idea to correct the spread

pete

 

[No start]

have you removed the fuel line pump to carbs   is the pump pumping ???

its quite common to make the dreaded rubber slivers , when you refit rubber hose to a metal pipe it slices a bit off anf that often blocks the back of the float needle valve 

do make sure none of the air filter gaskets are blocking the front face ports 

other things are the tube to the jet on su becomes kinked under the spiral wrap 

and there is often two jet tube rubber 0 rings in the float chamber ,decomposed and blocking flow

then what else did you work on ...always go back to the last job you did, or forgot about

are you getting a spark at the plugs?? 

Pete

[Hazard Switch on GT6 mk3]

clear  hooters ............takes me back to testing truck horns was probably 

Clear hooter , Lucas , one other

on the basis we coudnt hear any of them we bought the clear hooter as being cheapest 

happy days  

Pete