Jump to content

Pete Lewis

TSSC AO
  • Posts

    25,353
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    607

Posts posted by Pete Lewis

  1. its wise to always used the approved puller

    others will end up with the hub flanges getting distorted and then they need a lathe to reskim the face 

    and some hubs just pop off by gravity and others fight you all night 

    any stubborn hubs best left under tension overnight and you find a seriously stuck one has dropped on the floor 

    pete

     

  2. i was sold door seals for the 2000  completely wrong with v wedge supposed to slide in the C channel retainer  got told it takes over an hout to lever it in each door even advised to take the doors off !!!!    just like on the triumph assy line  i dont think

    CO Baines to the rescue find a seal with the appropriate T profile retainer  takes about 5 mins to fit with the door still in place

    does anyone listen  ......

    The Baines area rep was in the area and called in for  cuppa and see how it all went ....brilliant service

    they dont list all seal/vehicle compatibility but the web site is an easy search for what you need 

    get this in your little black book of supplies Rubbers Extrusions, Seals and Profiles Manufacturer - COH Baines (coh-baines.co.uk)

     

    Pete

  3. back in the 70s i used to repair my bank sub managers Standard 10   

    put the jack thro the floor hole at the B post and the floor lifted the car didnt  & it wasnt that old then 

    heck knows what a old derelict one is like on the underside 

    but its got a Boot lid thats a plus but the 803cc motor is not that  of a go getter 

    Pete

  4. on the Vit6 we used 32mm waste pipe  cut /joined  to fit around the rad.

    on my 2000 + SU  used 35mm   aquatic tube  its  strong and smooth inside 

    a couple of large P clips nipped together would make a simple support 

    Pete

    • Like 1
  5. its all do able diy fashion ,but the traing notes dont show the snags of 50 yr old wonky chassis and 50 yr old wonky body ,   a motley selection of large washers cut to make a 'C' so you can add or remove without dropping any bolts 

    you can solid pack as much as needed but only one rubber pad at the mount.

    most body mount kits never have the right stuff  but a good start  beware prices are very wild 

    check out james padocks as  good deal 

    my view is the two mounts front of bulkhead have solid ally mounts and the two at the diff Xmember   should also use the same , this ensures the tubs will not manouvre  when out on the road 

    the two front mounts have sized holes with little adjustment 

    the rear tub can easily go here and there to align gaps so you do need to have some fixed(no rubber ) for the rear tub (    makes sense ) 

    Pete 

  6. certainly yes     if unsure C O Baines will send you a small sample  if you give them a call

    any single flip seal is more as it should be , never designed for balloon/tubed type profiles that too many sell 

    as replacements 

    Pete

  7. pity you are too far away or a club night would get so many hands on and rip the car apart

    dont like the sounds of the front seal /overlap joint being tack welded 

    if you feel you have given it a good try and the end result fails dont get disheartened  these thing are often a trial

    we all have varying success

    the difficult takes time the impossible takes a bit longer 

    Pete

  8. lets go back a year many suggested the A post/screen has pulled back due to hood tension , looking at the tapered gaps on the bonnet i am sure the fitting of some decent washers cut to make a C slot  add these to the side mount to tilt the A  post fwd.

    you gain fwd. door hinge adjustment  the fact the hood is tight

    is the likely culprit and its replacement should be part of your next assignment      hows that as an idea

    as we have said one way to shift the rear tub is 3 shreaded wheat on the handbrake lever

    pete

     

  9. it can take a good stick with old rubber pads and underseal .

    just measured the "woods"   bit of 2x1"  approx 41.5 " long

    slotted ends at 40.25"between slots ,needs a chamfer to allow you to roll the stretcher bar over the door seal flanges and push down to midpoint .

    cant photo as dont have the Vitesse to show a trial fit 

    dimensions all subject to the car needs  

    does that help ??

    Pete

     

×
×
  • Create New...