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Paul H

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Posts posted by Paul H

  1. 32 minutes ago, rlubikey said:

    I remember watching an expert rebuilding my gearbox and doing just that. Trying the synchro rings, feeling them and swapping them round until he had the best fit/bite. It reminded me of "The Good, The Bad and The Ugly" where Eli Wallach goes into the gun shop and sorts through the different guns, stripping down to the component parts and selecting the best and making up his ideal gun.

    The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (1966) - Gun shop Scene

    Now, if only I could remember how to embed a video in this forum. Anyone care to remind me?

    Cheers, Richard

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. 1 minute ago, Mark B said:

    I've got to look at the sunroof on my Mk2 Gt6. Not opened it in years for fear of not being able to close it or the vinyl tearing. Very stiff despite oil/grease on the runners, so must be the sliders worn. Car has lived outside in the 20 years I've owned it. It was only a couple of months ago I notice a new split, then realized it was being caused by the metal pieces rusting and festering away, expanding under the vinyl causing a tear. The more I looked the more bumps I could see and feel. I'll need to research if I can get new vinyl, last time I looked they weren't available, think they're an odd size on the Gt6,  wider than they are long. I should be able to fabricate new metal work. The inside roof lining, last time I looked was in good nick, but that may have changed by now.

    IMG_0066 (1).jpg

    IMG_0068 (1).jpg

    You can still buy the vinyl about £40 using your old one as a template . I

    Paul 

  3. There's a new one on Ebay NOS , https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276129977476  starting price £150 though should go for serious money . You can replace the vinyl  sunroof yourself for about £150 and a lot depends on the condition of the metal headers as they tend to rust. Adding a headlining is about £30 for the material. To get somebody to do it professionally is close to £1,000 nowadays. I did my Vitesse together with a new headlining . If you want to DIY i can let you have some suppliers and Uncle Pete may still have some NOS headlining for sale 

     unnamed.thumb.jpg.6f9d0ba3416a1ccfd1ab3620f29c3869.jpg

    Paul 

     

    unnamed (1).jpg

    • Like 3
  4. 15 hours ago, Paul H said:

    I’ve made the conversion to my mk2 Vitesse with Gaz shocks with the club shop conversion. Whilst it’s not an easy job I’d choose this option again . There is no visible gap between the chassis and body tub so not a source of corrosion.

    Paul

    Just remembered how I fitted the top suspension bracket . Because I couldn’t raise the body tub enough I used a 12 in’s steel rule . I cut out a section to go round a bolt and sharpened the end to get an edge to start . With the steel rule hammered in place I slid the bracket in over the top and knocked it home . Removing the steel rule wasn’t too difficult as used a sliding hammer plus with the bracket in place it opened the gap by breaking sealant / paint which was preventing the body tub lifting. One thing I did learn was that there were no bolts on the ends of the outriggers , probably explaining the creaking 😱

    IMG_0351.thumb.jpeg.d9e3afdcfefec193efd67e68369bc188.jpeg

    Hope this helps 

    Paul 

     

  5. 2 hours ago, Straightsix said:

    It’s so tempting to buy new things when we get our new toys, I’m pleased you fella’s are out there with your wise words to reign me in 😆

    Do I need adjustables? Tbh no not really.

    When I’m ready I probably just go for the standard pre rotoflex telescopics. (After removing existing rotoflex extension brackets)

    I believe the GSA 385 dampers should do the trick via Tssc shop.

     

    Thanks again all, for your help.

    I think you might have issues removing the extension brackets ie the body chassis bolts will need loosening and you might have to jack up the body . Having a sliding hammer might make the  job easier . I’d leave them in position

    Paul 

    • Thanks 1
  6. 1 minute ago, Colin said:

    Hello again, chaps; can anyone please send me photos of the door rain drain holes? They were neglected to be created when both door skins were renewed. I'd rather not find the doors half-filled with rainwater, should I ever decide to - or get caught in the rain! 

    Cheers, Colin.

    I can take a photo tomorrow 

    Paul 

  7. I opted for a fixed copper pipe from the slave  and attached to the side panel in the engine bay.  Worked a treat however it was a pain when changing the slave . Re fixing 2 fixed pipes was difficult in such a small area and would have been much easier with 1 flexi . On my todo list to upgrade to a flexi system 

    Paul 

  8. Update: the return journey back from the Wirral went fine . No lack of power in fact took note from BFG and used the OD less and even hit 4k in 4th 😱quite enjoyed it . Only issue I had was the Speedo stopped working . It was swinging about a lot and the screen washer stopped working for some reason.  All in all a 700 mile trip. Next week plan to check the plugs, recalculate oil consumption and do a compression test and see if there’s blue smoke . Will the smoke be evident on acceleration ? 
    Thanks again for all your input 

    Paul 

    • Like 1
  9. 4 minutes ago, Iain T said:

    I don't think the pipe and hose is your problem especially as its been working fine to date. Has cleaning the filter made a difference? 

    Iain 

    The filter is not high quality and concerned it might leak or break the glass if mucked about with . Doesn’t look like it’s restricting fuel.  Plan to clean when I get back . The issue currently is only on big hills and nothing like than on my way back to Suffolk 

    Paul

  10. 2 hours ago, Iain T said:

    On my Vitesse it's 1/4" out the tank and the PO ran 5/16" to the carb pipes which are 1/4". I fitted an adapter on the carb pipes to the 5/16" hose . My filter is by the tank and has 1/4" one end and 5/16" the other. Bought from carbuilder solutions. 

    Iain 

    Its standard pipework and Gates Barricade for a Vitesse apart from joining sections for the Fuel Filter . Its been the same system for the past 4 years 

    Paul 

  11. 1 minute ago, Bfg said:

    The oil on the spark-plugs' threads is excessive, or are you using grease or Coppaslip on those ?  If the plugs are rather old then their compression washers are often flattened beyond being an effective gasket. New plugs might offer a slight improvement in compression. Unless your engine has experienced preignition it might be worthwhile swapping those plugs out for a hotter grade, to burn off carbon deposits (self-cleaning) and avoid fouling.

    Your fuel filter looks rather petite to my eyes (relative to the size of the fuel pipe) ..for a 2-ltr six cylinder, but the plugs do not indicate lean running.

    I wonder what grade of fuel you were using up the mountains, and if an octane booster / additive would be worthwhile, if only for that sort of driving.  Puttling around town doesn't require higher octane but with worn rings and steep hills it could be beneficial. 

    Pete

    Hi Pete ive got 2 filters , 1 before the Huco & 1 before the Carbs , Fuel is Momentum E5 or equivalent . Ive changed the plugs to see if there's improvement . The journey back has no big hills so as long as i dont push her too much should be ok to get back to Suffolk . Speed being 50 - 55 occasionally 60 - with ref range 2800 to 3200 - i do have OD . Thats oil you see on the plugs . Pre Ignition - Is this the same as Run on after switch off ? I dont get this 

    Paul  

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