Colin Lindsay

Or: break off the fitting lugs and glue the badges on with Tigerseal or the like. Saves drilling through paintwork and believe me they won't fall off.

That's true; both our Mondeo and the Freelander use amazingly small paper cartridges which must be down to better engine design and better materials.

Yes, I've beaten about those bushes over the past few days, tried every permutation from Lucas bronze bush bracket to Bronze bush holder and even old heater motor bronze bush retainer... nowt.

Come here, Henry... I want a look at you...

Now all I need is for someone to tell me: that two-fan motor was extremely rare and worth far more than your DG motor...

It was the challenge of the rebuild that made me do it!! Just finished a DG heater motor and am now starting a Lucas M35G - not J - starter. All for the fun of it.

Lol now you're asking! I think mine just used the original clutch plate from a GT6 but I can't remember, it was purchased back in 2001 and hasn't really been out since 2005... I've found photographs taken at the time but can't remember if the close-up shots are the non O/D one that was removed and given away or the replacement, which was 3-rail 1850 Dolomite. The photos all appear to show coarse splines. If it's only the splines that differ then the next clutch can be changed to fit, but I'm almost certain it's coarse. In fact I can remember, when the gearbox was fitted in 2004 after the engine rebuild, reusing the old clutch plate and thinking I should really have bought a new one, in which case it's definitely the original GT6 version. The photos I have of an old input shaft being used as a clutch centralising tool show coarse splines.

I have photos of Herald 3-rail versus Spitfire single-rail for comparison; I know they're not Dolomite 1850 / GT6 boxes but they may help in giving some idea of the differences?

There are two different sorts; with hood fitted and without hood - if you need the shorter ones that fit onto the hood frame, Moss have them: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/spitfire/weather-equipment/hard-tops/hardtop-spitfire-mkiv-1500-1970-80.html The longer ones are NLA from anywhere that I've looked, but may be available second hand from Chic Doig.

No results for that, either, at least not period results. I spoke to a man who restores wiper motors ands he says they're incredibly difficult to get hold of, so if I can find out the proper name it'll be a challenge for an afternoon. In the meantime I removed my original to destruction; they press in, and will not come out again in the opposite direction so: I had an old motor of something unknown, it had two fans that spin on either side of the central motor, but the housing looked roughly the same. I was able to dismantle it and sacrificed the end of the body by sawing it off so that the bush retainer and felt seal pressed outwards. Exactly the same size as the DG version but seemingly more modern, it fitted first time with gentle help from a socket. Now I have a spare Delaney Gallay heater blower motor. Ain't life grand?

Lol! Glad you pointed that out, I had to study for a while until I realised...

That looks to have an edge round it; almost as if a sleeve or the like has been incorrectly fitted into it but I think it's just a build up of old debris. It looks almost like a brass spiral at the bottom or the remains of a worn washer. There shouldn't be any kind of lip in that. I wonder if that's what's holding your bleed nipple off the metal and so preventing a seal? I know the bleed nipple only seals hole to hole, so there's a slight difference in the two profiles but that does look quite solid. If you can get a small wire brush on a Dremel or the like and clean up that profile it may seal better.

Only when I opened Windows.

Here's another of those 'need one but don't know the correct name' scenarios. I've repaired a Delaney Gallay heater blower motor to destruction; actually things were going well until I needed to open the case, which took a little bit of pressure until it split and I found that the spherical bronze bush was stuck on the shaft - the reason the motor was not turning - and had now pulled out of the bush housing. It's one of those multi-legged sprung housings and it appears the bush is set in place then the housing is pressed into the case, and retained by four very small lugs. I suspect that if I try to prise it out I'll damage it so if I need a replacement, what's the technical term / proper name? I've tried all sorts of permutations and can't find anything even close.

Same as GT6 MK3, then... but still hard to find. Thanks!

Thanks Kevin, the Mac can come back in from the dustbin.

Not of the nipples; of the aperture in the caliper? Can you get a photo of the bottom of it?

It may be but hard to tell without having it in front of me to examine. Is the bleed nipple aperture clean of obstruction, can you see down in and does it look properly machined? Any chance of a photo?

Just a query when we're on the topic - is the 1850 input shaft still available, or does anyone have the spec / part number? I may need one and there have been a few unidentified NOS input shafts for same online, so I'd like to keep an eye out for one just in case.

As usual it's just me being me and trying to work out if the forum was down, or if my Mac was on the blink after a recent update. Around 8.10pm last night? I was on the forum as usual, then clicked on a new section and got this: So: I went back, tried another area, and got this: And then finally: This morning it all seems to be back to normal. Before I start thumping the Mac and resetting things I shouldn't touch at all, was it a server error?

Ever seen 40 year old grease? Yuck! Be a sport, make it's day and give it a fresh squirt.

They're saloon belts, not the centre tunnel fitting, nor will they fit the convertible b-post method of attachment, so not a direct replacement and besides I can see visible fraying in some. I'd avoid them.

It's probable that the valences are fine, photo on left below (mine were altered to take an oil cooler and a non-standard alternator originally, and the currently fitted version is a 55amp uprated replacement ) and it's the bracket that Rich is using that's the problem, especially if it differs from the others he's looked at - it may be lowering the alternator a shade too far. It's interesting however that the photo of the aftermarket alloy versions to the right below also shows the top edge cut out for the alternator, although not as drastically as mine. Space is at a premium and the slightest deviation may cause fitting problems.

http://www.minispares.com/shop/Classic/Wheels/Accessories/Caps.aspx?200102 You'll have to supply your own Triumph stickers, though... search eBay for 'Triumph Wheel Centres'. Unless these fit your wheels? TR7 alloys also used an alloy centre cap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-DOLOMITE-SPRINT-ALLOY-WHEEL-CENTRE-CAPS-SET/363166223954?hash=item548e64ce52:g:uQAAAOSwFRpforuL

The side valences are probably made to the original spec which was for dynamo, which sits higher than the alternator. (It's possible the alternator is fitted lower so as not to foul the bonnet when it's closed, being bigger and broader than the dynamo.) When I bought my valences I had to modify the top of the passenger side to allow the alternator to sit on the correct brackets, ands this little cut-out allows for quite a bit of adjustment on the belt.