Colin Lindsay

That's what I thought but then Rob disagreed; as I say maybe I worded it wrong.

Okay, then. If I reword it to say: your hi-torque starter turns the engine more easily, so it starts more quickly therefore takes less cranking and may use less battery power ie percentage of capacity for each start of the engine, does that sound ok? I know what I mean but it's not as clear as it could be.

UKC27191 is the correct lock for late GT6, TR6 and also later Spitfires. Rimmers only show one ignition setup for the GT6, so no distinction between early or late on their site. There are two sellers on eBay selling both lock and ignition key assemblies as one; although one is £20 cheaper than the other.

I don't think it's the speed with which it turns, it's the effort - it seems to take so much less. You use less battery power so theoretically you should be able to crank for longer and your battery will take longer to run down. I've just rebuilt a 35G (simply because you can remove the cover to get at the internals) and I'll use it on the Herald, but for the 6-pot I bought a hi-torque starter many years ago and never looked back. (except when it rusted inside, quite badly, so I had to strip it down and regrease)

Didn't find any Vitesse photos but this TR4 version one is close:

I've had a few searches this morning; the 7/8 wheel cylinders were also used on Ford Corsair and Lotus Elite but it seems none are available bar repair kits; I've linked to a couple of other sellers: https://shop.oakmeremotorgroup.co.uk/product/rear-wheel-cylinder https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories.htm#searchresults Do you want to keep the auto adjusters, Roger? Might be easier to bin them and go for the earlier type.

Unless we can find an alternative fitment to some other marque it may be a case of having to use what's currently out there. There are also Delphi versions if the part number GWC1502 is correct.

You could go to a local upholsterer, who will recover the wheel for a lot less than a retrimmer (at least mine do!) I have a leather cover on my Herald wheel, but it's bound round with leather thongs so won't budge before doomsday.

Founder of the Whizzo Chocolate Company of Monty Python fame?

I was wondering myself, but I'm not so au fait with the later GT6 models (despite having one back in the 1990s) so assumed you meant the clutch, too. My own GT6 has the 0.7 brake MC, being early, and having just refurbished a spare one over Lockdown it should hopefully be correct for my own car.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-III-LATE-DOLOMITE-SPRINT-REAR-WHEEL-CYLINDERS-FITTING-KIT/361244620337 From a seller I use regularly, so should be good.

If I was that organised, Rob, I wouldn't be on here twenty times a week looking for tips and answers to problems!

TR3 or 4(?) steering wheel, looks the same as the one in the top photo: The GT6 / Spitfire version, not the standard factory fitment for the GT6, is 15" and dished quite substantially, and looks to be the same as Paul's:

Rimmers are quoting it as 'Clutch - all models' under Herald Spitfire GT6 and Vitesse, with no distinction for very late GT6 either. I ran a check of GMC205, just for curiosity, online via Bing and it's amazing how many of the more reputable sellers are selling this, or the equivalent, as suitable for all models as a clutch MC and for all Heralds or Vitesse 1600 as brake MC. Are the bigger versions still available, Doug?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-CENTRE-CAPS-LUSSO-NOS-GT6-VITTESSE-TOLEDO-DOLOMITE-HERALD-SPITFIRE-FORD/174529148611?hash=item28a2bf76c3:g:ldQAAOSwsaVcVxNC Any use, or are they suitable?

Can't see them either, Clive - it links to something called 'Service Log-in' html.

Have you checked the underside?

Cause they're made for a variety of vehicles that use the same panel, so instead of having a selection with holes in different places, they just make one and you drill to suit. It's nerve-wracking on a freshly painted panel, but you just have to grit your teeth and make a pilot hole. My GT6 panel didn't have the hole for the fuel pipe either, so had to drill two in mine, one almost an inch wide. In fact, looking at photos, I've remembered it needed a third for the spare wheel bracket...

Heat the radius arm in boiling water; once it expands the bushes slip in... well, it sounds like a plan...

Astute and Sensible - purveyors of fine distilled water to the gentry since 2020.

Problem is: spotting the 'genuine supplier'. Just because he has a lot of overheads, and therefore charges a whacking premium on top of his cost price, doesn't make them any better than the cheaper supplier who has a realistic markup. Similarly, sellers of fakes will often charge a higher price to make it look less suspicious. You have to be canny sometimes, and that's still no guarantee.

Due to a clearout in my Local Tescos I bought a quantity of the Prestone Antifreeze - see link for similar: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Prestone-Ready-Antifreeze-Coolant-RMCAF4/dp/B009VXX9IC/ref=asc_df_B009VXX9IC/?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583451665878136&psc=1 I didn't realise until I bought about 5 litres of the stuff for a tenner that it's already mixed, but seems to be well recommended. It'll be going into a newly rebuilt system so no mixing with existing antifreeze or water. Anyone tried it already?

I always maintained that the use of modern substitute gearboxes is what led to unavailable parts for Triumph boxes in the first place. There was no point in stocking or remaking them.

They don't call them worry gauges for nothing. The more you fit, the more paranoid you get.

Yes, got those - but never used them! I guess they were more of a nostalgia item than a practical solution...