Colin Lindsay

Me too! How long does it last in an aerosol can? I have four tins of code 19 bought from TSSC Shop back in the 1990s... never so much as rattled.

Not being on Facebook I couldn't find anything relevant bar this single photo - posted by a Nigel Hook? Is he the manufacturer? I couldn't find why he had posted it or any linked text. Those look interesting! Update: found him through a bing search. https://www.facebook.com/groups/116689651680167/permalink/2811047018911070/ Any other method of contact? I'm not on Facebook so can't PM.

That's interesting! Any idea who? I have four speakers in the GT6, one in each rear trim and one in each glove box aperture and they're good enough to be heard over the engine. I had two large triangular pod speakers in under the rear hatch, held on by velcro, but reckoned that if I braked hard they'd hit me on the back of the head, so out they went. (Just spent all day fighting with a modern Ford CD unit so ICE is not in my good books at present.)

I think off the top of my head, that the deck is unavailable but try Chic Doig - he makes repair sections right up to replacement panels and can probably supply the bit you need.

It's only the mounting, Clive, I've more than enough modern / period-looking radios to fit something else but I think, given the expected sound quality of a modern unit with single speaker, I'd be better off carrying a portable battery radio to switch on when the car is stopped. You can get some great period-looking versions of those, too.

The valves themselves aren't usually unleaded, just the valve seats, unless they're now being made with harder materials than originally supplied. If your head has been converted to unleaded those will be fine, but any lead memory from years of use will now be long gone from your head. The last two heads I've worked on got original Stanpart valves - still quite cheap if you can find them online; I've no idea if they're any better than those currently available but I'm wary of modern versions being inferior. It's not a widespread problem that I've heard of in normal road use so possibly you just got the one flawed valve out of a large batch. I've no idea how you would tell if the rest were okay without having each one microscopically examined or otherwise inspected.

Isn't that what I said? Early heralds had two brackets for radio mountings on the lower dash support (which just happen to be the same spacing as my aftermarket console brackets) but later cars don't have them.

I'll bet that you paid a lot less in Aldi than we did in a local Hardware store... but I did want one. We got uPVC windows fitted three years ago, I'm still burning the mahogany window and door frames, interspersed with logs that I buy locally - kiln dried and you could light one with a single match. They burn well but sometimes too quickly. My Great-Grandmother in law (died at the age of 99) was well known for burning huge logs in her fire, they started about four feet long and as the end burned away she just pushed more in...

A Vaillant 2-blade - my present from Santa! It spins quite easily in our house - the stove is red hot when 'er indoors is in, and the cat pants for breath - but I've no idea if it improves heat dispersion or not.

Lol I left that earlier post unfinished to go do something else and found it had autoposted, so hope it made sense. I was trying to get pics of the side profile of mine (can't show it fitted as both Heralds have the gearbox tunnels removed at present) so that you can see how they will compare to yours. If Richard can measure the gap I reckon it will be the best guide for fitting. The unit with the radio at the bottom can be angled so that the radio clears the tunnel tray if need be.

I have two similar - similar, but there may be variations in behind yours Ian that prevent them being fitted to Heralds and the like. Early Heralds have two brackets welded to the lower dash support that later ones do not, and this matches the mounting points on my units, so I know this was an intended mount for the radio, but it's the space above the gearbox tunnel that requires the substantial speaker to sit at an angle and thereby doesn't give the best sound quality when angled downwards or backwards enough to clear the tray on top of the tunnel. Both of mine are cut-out in behind and sit well enough as they're only really flat panels, but if yours is solid underneath it may not have the clearance. I've experimented with another period unit that has the speaker on top and should be somewhat clearer for listeners; you can attach extra mounting points to the gearbox tunnel on any of these to help stabilise it in place. The radio certainly fits; it's the space required for the speaker that causes problems and doesn't lead to the best position for listener comfort. I'll fit one of these in the estate for the novelty value but in the convertible I'm intending to use door speakers.

Good candidates for an invisible patch-repair. Cut the rust out, template up a replacement patch and weld in; bit of filler and paint and it's done. Any good bodyworker can do that, but it's fiddly and will take a few hours.

Yep, those are more tie-downs than anything else. There are two more at the front, in behind the front body crossmembers just visible here in these underbody shots of mine - I wonder if you remove the front bumper is there access for towing ropes? You couldn't tow with them as is since the ropes would just demolish the bodywork, but I'm wondering is there access behind the bumper?

Richard's right - play your cards close, plead poverty, and see what the best price is for the work you need done. You have three options - either replace the entire panel that requires work, replace a small pre-formed section, or have it patched. Full replacement panels will be expensive, but at least they'll be complete and solid. Repair sections will take care of the rusty bits, but obviously have a seam (probably visible only to yourself and the MOT tester) unless you have a very good bodyworker. The third option is to have small repair sections set in, just small pieces of sheet metal, to fill the holes without replacing the entire panel or a large pre-formed section. They're all going to cost, and the better the job, and especially the more fiddly and time consuming the job, the more it will cost! Prioritise the areas, anything structural or which will affect MOT is the highest priority; anything letting water in or allowing moisture or dirt to reach important areas is next, and cosmetic bits are the last priority. DO NOT give a bodyshop carte blanche to do what they want; no matter who they are, with the best will in the world, they'll still sting you, and quite happily tell you that all of the work carried out was absolutely necessary. Get a bit of help to determine what you need done and what's the best value for money within your budget, and then see what is available to repair those bits - panels or repair sections. Price round for panels or repair sections - they're usually all made by the same manufacturer anyway and the suppliers just add their whack on.

I've dealt with ANG before (were they Anglian Triumph Services back in the day?) mostly on eBay so I've checked their items for sale; they have bushes for the rear suspension arms which they state are 3/8, and these are the standard rubber bushes which have a metal tube prefitted for both front and rear suspension. I think the guys are on the right track re the metal tube, so we'll have to wait and see if you have them or not.

This last welder's excuse was that the pipe had been brazed in originally so his welds would not take properly, but he had simply cut a piece out and tried to weld a flat section on top to clear the heater box. I must have looked particularly scruffy that day as he reckoned I couldn't afford a proper job. Once again the bits sat in the garage untouched, and a house move didn't help matters any. In 2017, in the new garage, I dug it out yet again and decided it needed to be removed completely. Once removed I cleaned up the old brazing and then had to locate a pipe not only of the proper dimensions - that original one was too wide for the rubber 'boot' that early cars had - but of the correct curved profile to clear the heater box and bulkhead. A quick visit to a mate's scrapyard located a curved section of car exhaust pipe which when cut at the precise spot on the curve, and at the correct angle, actually dropped the pipe by the required amount whilst leaving it attached to the same point and running horizontally across the top of the bodywork. It was then welded into place and primed. A quick test of the heater box revealed no more rubbing or touching and what's more, the rubber boot fits. Result! This means that the bulkhead and bonnet are now complete. The chassis is finished, the doors are being left alone until the gaps are set before being reskinned, and all that remains of the bodywork is the rear tub... which is poor and going to require a lot of work. Plus of course everything requires resprayed...

Lol funny you should mention showers.... my ceiling pull-switch melted back in August; the electrician who had wired it four months previously came back again and blamed a cheap switch - which I had supplied, from Screwfix. I bought a heavy duty version locally and have had no problems since. The old one had a very heavy 'clunk' when pulled, the new one is very smooth. I'll be in touch with the electrician who wired the new garage when it was built and see what options I have for stringing a heavier cable to the compressor. The strain that constant running for sandblasting puts on it is obviously becoming too much.

Probably a 99p fantastic from the local hardware outlet, but then good quality plugs are hard to find these days. The live (brown) wire was perfect a few days ago when the fuse was replaced (it wasn't the fuse but the pressure switch that ended up being replaced) so this overheating has happened in the course of one afternoon's blasting work. I have one dedicated heavy circuit in the garage, for the lift, so may have to splice into that for the compressor which is, as it always happens, at the other end of the garage. The rest are just standard sockets.

...and just to adjust the above, slightly, it now hates plugs too. 30 minutes sandblasting today saw it shut off and not restart, so once again I had to start at the pressure switch (just replaced with a new unit as of a fortnight ago) and work back to the plug, which looks like this: The resistance now appears to be at the plug end, not the motor. I'm starting to get seriously peed off with it.

Aw...thought I was on a winner there, but it's the way the diagram is expanded that confused me. I'd try Chic Doig if you want to source one; he can usually find odd bits like this or else at the very least confirm the threads.

Is this a 1600? I've just had a quick scan of Canley's site, the stud is listed as NLA but Paddocks are showing it as available, although they have it listed as 101962: http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/manifolddownpipe-stud-16002-litre-mk1-3 Rimmers have it listed as part number TE605105. 1 1/4 x 5/16 seems to be the size, if I'm locating the correct bolt - manifold to downpipe?

Eventually I decided it wasn't going to rebuild itself and decided to have it done professionally. I trailered both bonnet and bulkhead 50 miles to a local transport company who shipped it across to Chic Doig in Kircaldy, and at the next Totally Triumph Show in Belfast, around June 2012, he trailered it back to me again. It's hard to believe this is the same bulkhead. I had to check for certain marks in the bodywork before I could claim it to be the same item that I had sent away. It's almost perfect. This is the corner from the photo above with that huge jagged weld: The heater panel patch is gone and the pipe has been replaced. The bonnet was equally as good, so this was a major boost. I had a mate lined up to respray it once the rear tub was completed, plus a large quantity of 2-pack Signal Red paint purchased, and things were definitely on track - if I could wait six months until his garage was cleared of other work. In the meantime other things progressed but one fine day, whilst composing an article for The Courier on heaters, I found that none of mine would fit. The drain pipe was 1/4 inch too high, and the heater rocked on top of it. I couldn't use it as is; the stress would fracture the bodywork over time, and so had to get it rectified. I couldn't send it all the way back to Chic, so once again entrusted the work to a local welder. I'll say no more.

Just to blow the dust off this one, which is more than I've done for the Herald itself... I decided some of the bodywork was worth saving, and so had the bulkhead shotblasted by an excellent local firm who have done a lot of large parts for me over the years. If I can't collect for a time they'll also prime it roughly to keep rust off. In steps a local 'bodyworker' who was also having work done by the same firm - "I'll have that back to new in no time" says he. Two months later he dropped it off to me. I possibly cried. I think he normally works on farm machinery. The welds were Frankenstein-like, brutal things that would need a lot of grinding back. He had also cut the drain pipe off the heater box and replaced with a length of heavy metal pipe, and welded a huge patch along the side of the heater panel which, he claimed, he had done many times before and when the heater was fitted, it was invisible. I sat down with the world's largest supply of filler, grinding discs and sanders, but it was obvious that this was going nowhere. Once again the convertible was relegated to the rear of the garage whilst a parade of different cars came and went. The chassis, at least, was complete, and you can see replacement wings for the bonnet in the background. Thus it sat, around 2010, for a few more years.

Sad news, Karl; I've lost a few friends and relatives this year from the same and there were a few reflective moments at Christmas. They say you never get over it, you just learn to live with it. I sneaked back into the garage many times just to feel normal again; even at present with one heavily bandaged arm in a sling from recent surgery just getting in front of the workbench takes the mind off a lot of other things. Bakelight is hard to clean up and more than once I've just painted one or fitted a better spare. Your G-clamp is better than mine, which broke a few weeks ago when I was trying to press bushes into place. Bought it at Stratford in August... four months!

We don't use them here any more either, but it's a nice touch. Adds to the period feel; windscreens are too bare otherwise. It's been a long long time since I checked but do we really have NO club stickers any more?