Colin Lindsay

You can also get a carpet section or vinyl cover to cover the wheel arches, too.

Same here. I just wind down the main window. If you open the quarterlight glass, the mirror moves away so no use unless it's closed. Make sure if you buy one that you fix it securely; as I've said a little tiny dab of sealer holds it in place. It clamps around the glass but the rear quarterlight pillar also helps to support it when the window is closed, and if you open the glass it's just clamped on by the force of two allen-headed screws and can disappear if you go over a large bump....

Sweeny Todds? Anyone you know in them?

I was afraid you'd say that.

Reassembling it can be more bother - once it's apart, even if it needs no work, it still needs rebuilt and if you're going to need help to do that you might as well let them do the whole thing. I used Stanpart valves on both of my Herald heads, cost me £15 from eBay brand new in box.

Sorry - must have missed this post! Do you have a local upholsterer? They often work in vinyl or the like, and might be able to advise on the best replacement. You could enquire of this lot: http://www.classicmotorcarpets.co.uk/Pages/Headlining Kit Page.html You've already found Martrim. https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/pvc-headlining.php This lot seem to be more cloth than vinyl: https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/categories/vintage-car-parts-upholstery-and-trimmings-headlining Try a search for just 'headliner' or 'headlining' on eBay, there are quite a few companies and one of them may have the material you need: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perforated-Headliner-Fabric-Car-Headlining-interior-decor-seating-4-COLOURS/302237742356?hash=item465ec5f514:m:mhy_b3Zlu-NwGVVTiULq1fw The plastic / vinyl used on Minis seems quite close too, but a lot of the cars from that era used the same kind of material. You may find the same pattern listed under another marque of car.

How long have you owned this GT6? I remember it from quite a few years ago at Stafford, in fact I parked mine beside it.

+1 on that, pics please so we can drool.

What does that entail? I just had one fitted but the flue goes out of the wall at 90 degrees, straight out behind it. Flaming expensive it was too!

I think they're around £20 and there are plenty to choose from, but all the same basic principle; they clip onto the quarterlight glass so no drilling involved. I've never knocked one off but have had one drop off as it was too loosely fitted, so this one has a small dab of sealant hidden in behind the clamp and has never caused any bother. It's been on there for about15 years now.

I ran a quick search online and found that they're the same for TR2, 3 and 4. This link may be of interest if you haven't seen it already - it's fairly critical of some suppliers and the quality of their modern replacements. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/5822-uprated-water-pump/ If you still have the old pump or can get hold of a good original, this company will rebuild them; they've done two Herald pumps for me now and I'm pleased with the rebuilds. http://www.ep-services.co.uk

TV Licensing e-mailed me this morning; there's a problem with the licence but if I click on the link it will allow me to pay online. Yeah, right.

Agree with both Pete and Doug; any Herald I've done has been chassis built up first, as it's much easier to route brake lines etc (and fit the engine and bellhousing as Doug says! I do it in one complete unit) then fit and gap the body. The underside should be already painted so it's just a case of masking off the bits you don't want resprayed. Bonnet goes on last.

Not sure which one the Herald fits into these days... stationary, maybe? CORDS Duaflex supply OEM and OES standard piston ringsets for the following applications:- agriculturalheavy industrialstationarycommercialaviationmarine

That'a amazing work, and well done. When you've finished that one you can come here and do this Herald for me. I started, got bored, and went off to do other things. My underseal seems quite soft; inclined to smear, and clog the stripping tools very easily, plus the bits fly everywhere! As I have the same electric drill as you I'm keen for any tips that will make it easier.

Yep. It's not only my engine that's broke. Plenty of free time, though.

A clip-on to the quarterlight is quite close to your head when driving; they look nice and cover the blind spot. Furthermore they require no drilling!

He has 18262 for the larger engines: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-Std-Pistons-1296cc1967-Press-Fit-Pin-Fitting/202790838181?hash=item2f37469fa5:g:swsAAOSwlRpZaStD I've to get the block checked but as I can't lift it at present it's holding things up slightly. It's a very very slight ridge on two pistons only. One local member who checked it told me that back in the day he'd have used step rings; Cords were recommended as they'll seal right to the edge of the lip but are angled so as they're below it. I'll probably end up going for good pistons be they modern or not; those on eBay are a step back. It all comes down to the final cost!

Douglas - not Doug, like yourself, but Douglas - is an absolute gentleman and runs the club like a watch; on time, and never stopping. It's a very close-knit club so we banter a lot and the club meetings are usually a good laugh. If you think the work on the Herald is industrious, remember the TR7 has just come down onto all four wheels with the underside completed and I've started on the engine; the GT6 has been stripped down ready for bodywork repairs to the rear valence and boot floor and I've recommenced this one: This is where the 1967 enginework comes from that I've mentioned in other threads on the forum; it needs a slight rebore and has been stripped down to the bare block. I stopped work on it in 2003 as the body had been fitted incorrectly to the chassis, so the roof will not fit, and the engine had been fitted with no work whatsoever and was smoking even then. The garage it's pictured in is very cold so everything has rusted and requires re-doing, the rubber hoses have all cracked and split, and I'm appalled at some of the work I did way back then which included painting the engine block BMC green, and the diff and anti-roll bar bright red. The plan is: when the GT6 goes for bodywork and respray, the TR7 moves into the vacant space and the estate goes up on the ramp so that the rear axle can be removed and rebuilt. As for the 1200 convertible.... it's once more way down the list and will have to wait.

Full marks to Douglas Hogg the AO of TSSC Northern Ireland for putting me on the spot at last week's meeting and asking: when was the last time I had a Herald actually on the road. I blushed a lovely shade of Signal Red and muttered.... 2008.... In any case: the steering rack is now refurbished, and looking well: I've also cleaned up the petrol tank, which is in excellent condition with no rot or damage. I'll add a few coats of gloss plus the sticker for the top. I managed to get the drain plug out with no damage to tank or neck, and it's all been cleaned up and replaced with new seals. I've rebuilt the gearbox - or in truth replaced the bearings and seals, the teeth all looking good, but I'm wondering if for a talking point I should use this all-alloy gearbox from a very early car instead? I know they're not up to heavy work and were replaced due to stress cracking and other problems, but it's a shame to have it sitting idle.

Certainly heavy enough to be a Churchill! I have a diagram showing one in use, slight differences but then there's no guarantee that they were all the same, back in the day. Handy to have if you need one, but then - you have to ask yourself how many times are you ever going to use it? I've had to harden my heart and stop bidding on things that I might only use once - it used to be a bad habit but I seem to have more willpower these days. Or less money.

These are 16178 but he's added 18690 on the box in marker. The funny thing is that they're two different boxes, going by the writing he's added on the front, yet both the same pistons, same reference numbers, same labels, but £20 difference. I don't yet need pistons, only rings, as the wear to the bores is amazingly slight and I might get away with standard pistons with new rings - waiting for confirmation at present - but with the price of just new rings, VAT and postage, it adds up to almost the price of pistons and all.

That will always be a major problem on any older car. You buy parts from the catalogue only to find that a PO has replaced the parts with whatever came to hand, or was better, and you're left with the original part that cost a bomb and no-one else wants, as they've all done the same mod....

Well then you can have a duck.... or in the 13/60 you'll be changing gears just for fun. Not for hills, then? Did the 13/60 really have more leg room in the back?

I was looking for details of a press car that I've recently been sent info on, and it appeared in an article from Motor magazine, August 1965, reproduced in the Brooklands Roadtest book. This one was fitted to a 12/50 and the writer claims that the 'Pye 2010 unit gave no trouble at all.'