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Colin Lindsay

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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay

  1. Colin Lindsay
    That funnily enough was my first thought - the originals are unfit for purpose so if replacing, use a bigger bolt and screw it in tight!
  2. Colin Lindsay
    I assume they never brought in the legislation concerning the age of tyres ie they had by law to be changed every so often, or couldn't be older than a certain cut-off point? I read about it a while ago, but only glanced at it as there's no chance it will come in over here. I'm still waiting for a rolling historic-class date to get tax exemption, but we're stuck in 1973.
  3. Colin Lindsay
    That's good to know, and quite interesting! I had a quick search online but nothing came up.
  4. Colin Lindsay
    They're just bolts into captive nuts in the chassis. Bound to be UNF thread and I'd still guess they're around 7/16 or 1/2. The later Heralds had their fair share of them too, four in the boot and two on top of the diff mounting with another two on the front outriggers. On this 948 - terminally rusty, unfortunately - you can see the bright threads where they were unscrewed for the first time since leaving the factory, left and right of the front diff mounting, and one even broke off in the raised mounting to the right above the rear shock on the driver's side.
  5. Colin Lindsay
    I have a good friend who tried that and has salted away around 15 cars in his garage all waiting for the big rise in prices. I look forward to his celebrations in about thirty years time, when we'll both be in our 80s... it might fund his Care Home fees...
  6. Colin Lindsay
    Cheapest I've found Plastex is £18.99 online (that's a small kit) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Repair-Kit-Plastex-Acrylic-Small-Repair-Kit/163663297391?hash=item261b17bb6f:g:2FMAAOxyrrpTi3R4 Never thought of Gorilla for fibreglass John; I've almost finished a hard top for my 1200 and was looking at strengthening some of the mounting points. That's given me something to experiment with.
  7. Colin Lindsay
    Unless the OP requires them, Peter; I have lots of those large self-tappers that came off Heralds over the years and all the other mountings on mine are either the long bolts into mounting plates or else bolts screwing straight into captive nuts, as on the front outriggers or the boot extensions. Nothing on my 1200s bar the centre outriggers where the two halves overlap uses self-tappers. (other than the sills of course)
  8. Colin Lindsay
    Never tried sticking anything with WD40, but I did recently get Gorilla Glue down between a fingernail and the skin beneath and it caused me no end of bother. I used it recently to fill holes in ceilings where inset lights were removed - cut a circle of plasterboard the same size, wet it, coat the edge with Gorilla Glue and push into place. Once plastered it was completely invisible. The biggest problem with the stuff is the expansion; it can push parts apart if left unclamped. As for Araldite... I once lost a front crown and in desperation Araldited it back in place long enough for me to attend an official function, after which it was off to the dentist and it came out again surprisingly easily when required to...
  9. Colin Lindsay
    The two halves of the body were indeed screwed together by a large self-tapper and a big washer, through both sides of the body and into the centre outriggers. Measurements as follows: 3/8 inch head and 1.5 inch long. The washers are about 1 and 5/8 across. There are three each side on the 948, and four on each side on later cars, three on the flat of the centre outrigger and one angled into the edge of the tub. There's nothing behind them, no spire clips or other fixings. Part number is YT3708, listed as NLA but readily substituted for the same dimensions in metric. The other chassis mountings are listed as setscrews but are what I would call bolts that screw into captive nuts. Part number BT7822, again listed as NLA, but probably just a UNF thread in the correct size ( probably 7/16?).
  10. Colin Lindsay
    Par for the course, I'm afraid, Roger. Break it, attempt repairs and if THAT doesn't work, then ask. I think John's on the ball - I'll trim both faces flat and expose a lot more stalk, and then glue the longer stem back in with Araldite. If it works, great, if not thankfully I've a few replacements salted away.
  11. Colin Lindsay
    I was working in the footwell of the GT6 when I straightened up and in doing so hit my head off the indicator stalk, which promptly snapped off. I have replacements ok but as I have the column-mounted overdrive this lever is cranked to allow more room between the two stalks, and I'd like to try to repair it. I tried to glue it with Superglue, which didn't work, and Evostick, which also didn't work. I think I need to find some kind of glue that will bond the nylon block back together, unless the old faithful Gorilla Glue will suffice? (Have to buy some then!) Any recommendations?
  12. Colin Lindsay
    One thing you might be interested in, if you can find any - look for a glass-topped pump, the Delco variety. They come up for sale from time to time online or at shows, and can be very easily cleaned or refurbished as they screw apart however: you can see the fuel in the glass so you'll know there actually is any, you can see any particles that may cause bother if they reach the carbs, plus if there are any leaks back along the line you'll see the bubbles too. It's one of the first things I fitted to my GT6 and after a few months of standing idle I can see if there's fuel (there usually is) or if it's even slightly low, use the priming lever to fuel the carbs before starting.
  13. Colin Lindsay
    The bracket and springs are available new, but not the pedal. If you're doing any drilling or remedial work, do it to the bracket - I'm thinking a bigger bolt might help (part 6 above), bolt being the word in case parts of yours have worn and the original size of pin is no longer a good fit. Get the best fit for the accelerator and if needs be drill the bracket to suit. If the mounting holes in the pedal have worn oval, you can either (very carefully) drill them out to a slightly bigger size, or reprofile them by welding and grinding. Pedals come up second-hand from time to time, but never when you actually need one.
  14. Colin Lindsay
    "Monitor the charge status of your battery via your smartphone – alarm function" You have one new call. "Hello it's your battery, I'm going flat."
  15. Colin Lindsay
    Where did you get the bolts from? Try the old ones and see how they fit. I bought bolts from a local Fastner company which were identical to my old ones in looks, but metric, and so didn't fit the imperial mountings. Absolutely the same when held side by side, but just the slightest difference in thickness. I went online and bought the correct Imperial ones and they fitted first time.
  16. Colin Lindsay
    I remember that one, but when he started into the part about chopping the loom to get the ignition warning light system to work, I decided it wasn't for me... but the terminals, along with the large stud terminal, look roughly the same so it might not be too far off the Brise. I have a very nice Delco Remy alternator out in the garage for use on my 1200, the two large spade terminals are both marked + and the smaller is GND. I might need a bit of refreshing when it comes to fitting that one, just in case.
  17. Colin Lindsay
    The only thing I can think of in that area would be to get at the rear of the door check strap bracket, but no idea why? It's too small for speakers and anything dropped in behind could be reached through that large circular hole with a magnet on a string. Strange... but there's nowt as strange as previous owners...
  18. Colin Lindsay
    I do that too. Missed a Herald by a tenner the other week, but then, I didn't really need it...
  19. Colin Lindsay
    I'd sell my spleen...no, wait, that was for Claudia Winkelman's hair... Do you mean the Bin-It-Now price?
  20. Colin Lindsay
    Well done Dave, kudos for taking it on and here's to a bright future. Publicity is the key - get it into The Courier, with full details of the exact area you cover plus up-to-date contact details. I get a lot of Herald owners asking if there's anyone in their area and The Courier is the first port of call for AO information that I can supply to them. Expect, as Doug says, to have a surprising number of local members but many will be silent sleepers who pay membership and never attend anything; however there's always a solid core of members who do attend everything and will be only too happy to assist once they have a working area again.
  21. Colin Lindsay
    https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-705754 The Mk1 and Mk2 versions seem to retail here for about £60; how different are they? Can anyone post a pic of the required versions?
  22. Colin Lindsay
    Had a guy land in, out of the blue, two weeks ago looking to buy my TR7. All of the restoration work done so far counted for nothing; it's off the road with no MOT, has no rear axle, bodywork needs touching in and he wouldn't pay more than £500 for one in that state. He had the cheek to tell me that as someone who knows Triumphs I should have realised that. I wasted his time, apparently... ...so I hope your Ami has gone to a good home, as I did covet it... slightly....
  23. Colin Lindsay
    Everyone round my way does (bar me!) - they all have those horrendous electricity-generating thingies in their back yards.
  24. Colin Lindsay
    James Paddock sells metal cup washers as a single item, £2.45 each; just last week I bought two kits with the plastic washers and two metal washers as additional items, so can pick and choose as I prefer.
  25. Colin Lindsay
    There's a very definite difference in size between Type 12 and 14, but I've no idea of the difference between type 14 Mk11 and Mk111 - I'd guess that you're spot on in that there is definitely a difference, so get another of whichever side fits! I hope it's not anything else, such as the uprights, but unfortunately you'll only find out when the replacement caliper arrives. Fingers crossed!
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