Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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They are cd carbs and no valve. Tbh the clip on the choke doesn’t seem to clamp terribly tight. It’s a new glass filter from the club shop on the right way located before the fuel pump. Out of interest what is the fettling order, timing, needle, idle, mixture, etc?
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Hi all, since the initial fire up I haven’t had chance to fettle the engine but an attempt at starting today, eventually ( I think the fuel filter is allowing fuel to drain back so takes a long time to fire up), once going as soon as I drop the throttle it splutters to a stall. Now the only difference between initial and now is the air filters are on and the breather connected. There was a noticeable drop in revs when I connected the breather could it be a vacuum issue? I’d appreciate any insights. Thanks Adrian
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Ok, looked to take the switch off and found the knob had been glued on. Cut the knob off and found the shaft had broken at some time in its life and perhaps the throw of the pump action isn’t enough to prime it. I think a new knob and pump needed. I haven’t touched the feed from the pump to the jets.
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It worked before the strip down and haven’t fiddle with the manual pump other than replacing the pipe. The bottle is a rimmers replacement
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Hi all
just a little niggle which I hope is simple.
Having replaced the washer bottle and tube there seems to be an airlock between the bottle and the switch which is preventing the fluid to be pumped. is there a technique to getting it 'bled' properly?
Thanks
Adrian
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There’s a cover for sale on eBay for 2.99 apparently good condition but pretty rusty. They crop up now and then.
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Spotted a saffron yellow (I think) mk3 gt6 heading south on the A38 towards Sutton Coldfield at about 3.45 pm today. Anyone’s on the forum or local area?
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Not had a problem with leak but paranoid about ensuring oil pump was primed. As said above prime via dizzy and used a drill (anti clockwise). Not tried it but I assume the light will go out once pressure is achieved using a drill so may save the bearings?
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Just bought the AA book for £4.32 free postage via the internet - hopefully a good read otherwise a cheap doorstop!
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Great name, money penny. Was going to comment about fettling her etc but in these days probably best not go there! Pete et al are your men, definitely in the right place.
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Hi all,
Rather than post multiple threads I have a few niggles / observations.
1. I’ve tried Petes running valve clearance. Other than a small adjustment they are still tappety. It may well be that they are all in need of additional adjustment.
2. I bought a new Tudor washer bottle from rimmers along with tube. The top bottle connection is so loose that it won’t ‘suck’. Starting to get annoyed with some of the poor products out there with stupid delivery charges!
3. Looking at fitting the occasional back seats. Does anyone have the fitting instructions (I’ve looked on the courier history and seen the parts) I assume I need to replace the original rear parcel shelf bracket?
4. Can anyone show me how the horn is mounted?
5. The tssc engine valances are very tight. Are there any issues about the top rubbing on the underside of the carbs?
6. Wiring route in engine bay. A couple of the bendy metal strips are missing.
I may have more but this is a bit of a starter.
thanks
Adrian
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Hi Pete, I’ve worked around it with a foam pad. The cards are from Owen at park lane so fibre board as original, perhaps the springs are weak!
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Thanks Chaps! Sorry if it repeated a question but I didn't notice anything in the recent tag lines.
I've tried it as suggested above and there is no tension on the handle once the securing pin is in place. Probably my issue as not sure if there is supposed to be a foam pad which sits behind the escutcheon?
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Hi all
When I got my car it didn't have the door cards in so my question is when refitting, does the spring behind the window winder go behind or in front of the door card. Spitfires appear to go behind (as does the GT6 Haynes) whilst rimmers diagram and WSM shows it in front (although WSM doesn't categorically state model). In all diagrams it shows the largest diameter of the cone on door side.
I know its not critical but would like to get it right.
Thanks
Adrian
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I use the Eezibleed. Had to buy an additional MC adaptor to fit which is a bit of a fiddle to get a seal but once on worked great!
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Ditto Doug, rebuilt mine from Owen at park lane. Superb and I’ve a compressed spine with regular back pain. Although not a regular drive. My seats originally had the crumbled foam pile on the floor.
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Nice engine stand Aidan. As you know I’ve recently gone most of the way into the engine. As like me slow is good, no rush and enjoy the learning. Take plenty of photos, when you think you’ve got enough, take more. Read my posts as I would have asked a lot of the more embarrassing basic questions that the the very helpful forum took in its stride. I used por 15 engine enamel, high solids and can be painted directly onto bare metal. I stripped the old stuff off with a wire wheel.
Adrian
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Hi all
The investigation continues. Your starter for 10........Attached is what fuse relates to what. It doesn’t seem to full comply with the previously posted diagram with some components being doubled up. Fuse 4 and 7 don’t seem to do anything, I’ve put the wire colours on if that may help. The next thing is the heater fan, should it be perminantly live and unfused as this is what it currently is.
with the exception of the heater does it really matter what is fed by what provided it is fused ok. Not sure if the parking lights are connected which may account for one of the unknown fuse.
Cheers Adrian
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My bad, told you I wasn't an expert!
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Doug, yes we must have. I don't smoke so the fag idea is out. Bit of rag I think. I can remember the condition of the feeler after the running test, i'll definitely be finding out my worst one.
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Not done that one yet. Pete did it during the first twiddle day. Before trying that I assume oil wouldn’t be spraying everywhere, I remember pete putting a rag on one end not sure if it was to stop oil or just convenient for wiping the gauge
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Hi all, as some of you know I got the engine started and was pleased at the overall initial running. I’ve adjusted the tappets but am still getting a little noise. Could there be anything else causing it, a blocked oil feed or something that may starve it. When up to temperature it seems a little louder (when I say louder it is only v slight and nothing like a bag of bolts being rattled). Only leaks so far was coolant and a quick nip up seems to have sorted that.
cheers Adrian
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I’m no expert but I’ll add my 2 peneth worth. If cylinder no1 is close to the top (stick a screwdriver in spark plug hole carefully to check or better still shine a torch in to observe the movement of the piston) and the valves are closed this should be the correct firing position so distributor should be on no1 firing position. There has been a thread on here about movement of the vibration damper causing timing marks to miss align could this have contributed, did you use a strobe. The lack of power suggests to me possible timing so just double check the facts first before eliminating timing.
good luck and let us know the outcome
Adrian
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I lost my Dad in February to exactly the same thing. They live on in all of us, the days will get easier and the loss will subside, hopefully to happy memories.
Adrian
Revs drop to a stall
in Engine
Posted
Other than adjusting the needle as per first twiddle day no other adjustments made or screws turned (seem to be CD3 carbs no adjustment underneath). Before starting I suspected a rich mix as the plugs were fould with carbon. Yes the breather is direct to the carbs. The inlet manifold does have a blanking screw in need of seating properly, could that be it? Based on reading around I think Timing is the first adjustment prior to adjusting the carbs. When viewed from the side, should the piston fully close the air intake aperture, mine is about 5-10mm gap at base but falls freely after lifting.