Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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Thanks all, too true re disposal. My tip only takes oil.
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New one fitted in second and works fine...... now the starting issues!
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Hello chaps, when is old fuel old? Mines been in the tank over a year, should I drain and put in fresh before trying a start? Would a 50% refresh with premium help or octane boost?
could I transfer the old to the modern?
thanks Adrian
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Don't worry chaps, a bit of brute force broke the brittle top clip and it came out - luck I had a replacement!
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Hi Chaps
I have a dodgy hazard switch and can't for the life of me get the blasted thing off. It seems to be attached to a metal plate (NB it doesn't have the plastic bezel). Is it a case of having to remove the dash to unclip something at the back? I can see a very small tab on the top and presumably one on the bottom. Is it a case of pot luck and trying to release these?
Cheers
Adrian
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Battery clamp now on (just timing on the photo). I just love the extra info you get from the community, may not help the problem but builds background knowledge. Now I’ve got to figure out the wiring connections for the lights etc, and try to figure out if the scotch lock red cable with two terminal blocks (domestic) actually did anything!
Shaun, it’s taken a while to get to this stage and I started with a good external example, just engine, inside and underside needing nursing. There is part of me feeling inadequate because I’ve never welded!
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Thanks for the replies. Clamped on side like Yorkshire and round the back like the scrap man. Didn’t bother with wrap in the end. Cheers Adrian
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Hi all, just one of this stupid moments, no matter how many pictures you take you always miss what you want! I’m
looking to put some heat shrink on the battery earth, just to tidy it up and more easily cleaned in the future. The main battery strap has an extra clip close to the terminal which is preventing the heat shrink from going on. I can’t remember if it was originally attached, if it was it would be on the edge of the battery box support. is kit necessary to attach it?
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My bad. It’s an aged white wire turned yellowish. All wired up with a spare live for the power socket I’ll fit in due course. Next is sorting the earths and putting the battery in. Then I’ll check the feeds!
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Thanks, that gives me confidence to carry on
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Yes that’s right the cut wire is my first cut of the yellow wire, not white. I can only assume that somewhere further up the loom the white wires are spliced or joined. It would be nice to know what’s what although could do this once everything is connected and test each fuse
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OK. I just had a good look at the feeds to the fuse box. If I'm not mistaken the fuse order does not tally with the colours on the wiring diagram. Before going too far I just want to check what I have, is it a home made order, another form of wiring I haven't a copy of, etc.
So Bottom fuse on diagram = Red Green from headlamp switch to 2 Red outputs. On my car this is the middle fuse and I have a third Red output (could this possibly be the instrument light or parking light spur shown after the fuse?)
Middle Fuse on diagram = Ignition live 3 White to 3 green outputs (wiper, flasher). On my car if I'm correct I have 1 yellow input and two green situated in the top location and no whites at all.
Top fuse on diagram = 1 brown feed and 3 purple out to hazard, horn, interior light, dip switch. On my car this seems to be correct but in the bottom position.
Now the 3 feeds - yellow, red green and brown are easily placed as is with loop spurs using piggyback spade connectors. So can the outputs adjacent to the appropriate feed BUT what is correct, where are the white wires? should I strip the loom cover off to see if there are any joints?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers
Adrian
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By way of penance I’ll have to attend one of your area meetings Pete, assuming the Frankenstein moment occurs and “she/he lives again!”
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Unfortunately I can no longer attend, was looking forward to the multimeter lesson.
Adrian
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I bought some parts for the mini from Manners this week and was served by the chap who dealt with the GT6 Car SOS order. Following what I assume to be a removed thread he said they spent thousands as the programme clearly showed - no refurbishment just new parts... and not free. Main point - whilst the on screen persona is annoying the fellas said Tim was a very nice knowledgeable chap, perhaps that is what is demanded of the TV company. I'm sure Cookie could dispel any personality views?
I've often wondered is restoration keeping a car on the road regardless of what is under the bonnet or being true to the original?
Just interested - (my engine isn't original so numbers do not match but does that make a car any less historic?)
Adrian
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1
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I'm a bit confused and concerned now, showing my inexperience and apologies as there are two threads running here. if the cylinder is on the compression stroke both valves should be closed and can be simply tested by pressure build up if the finger is over the plug hole. They are and it is when at TDC (able to get a feeler gauge in). Also dist lines up with No 1 (ish as new dist so will need fine tuning).
Perhaps I described it wrong, as the manuals say don't reverse the engine rotation so wanted to get front - then back which meant cycling through the valve cycle. Didn't work due to valves so,
1. did up cycle (stopped at 6cm before TDC) then I took the piston stop out,
2. rotated past TDC, re-inserted piston stop,
3. I did reverse slightly till it stopped again, unsurprisingly 6cm past TDC.
I think its right unless I'm missing a T-shirt moment!
Adrian
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Just to finish the TDC stuff - success! I bought a longer piston stop from Bikers Tool box - arrived the following day.
I could actually see the top of the domed piston at the top of the throw when shining a torch in cylinder 1. Word of caution to anyone using this - its too long to allow you to complete a full cycle, the valves actually foul against it. So if using it on the compression check the valves are clear via the spark plug hole before inserting, hand tight and rotate crank for the first mark. Remove when done and complete rotation until the piston starts to drops, then reinsert and back up the piston to contact the stop. Done!!! Gives me greater confidence after changing the timing wheel/chain.
Thanks
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I ordered a piston stop as I think it’s a nice simple procedure......except.......it arrived yesterday and tried it just, it doesn’t stop. It was tightened all the way to the collar and I can turn the engine a full revolution. Are they different lengths?
This one seems to be longer
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Slight drift but can anyone recommend a reputable codan or other branded fuel pipe supplier. It seems to be a very common forum topic out there discussing all of the poor quality counterfeit products on the internet auctions, etc
My gut feel is my hoses are around 32yrs+ based on the available history so possibly due for renewal!
Thanks
Adrian
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Hi all
probably another silly question but I have a brand new Yaris battery doing nothing in the garage
same size, just 440a rather than 420a. Is that ok or will things start to fry?
Thanks Adrian
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My gut feel was the later location
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The only two areas are as follows
The only two areas are as follows,
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Unfortunately it’s a solid metal, external feed all the way to the front of the car. So it’s got to be in the engine bay as I’m no going to cut a sound pipe.
Thanks
in General
Posted
Hello all
I've reached that Frankenstein moment and ...............he/she/it LIVES. Took a bit of spluttering to start with (and had to charge the battery) but what a relief to a novice! My thanks to all who have helped with advice and no doubt I will have just as many on the fine tuning, will have to double check the tappets as they are a bit noisy. Sorry filmed it upside down and the smoke is the manifold and engine paint cooking.
Anything I should do, watch out for other than leaks, etc
From happy chappie Adrian sitting down with a coffee and smile.
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