Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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Hello all
I have a glass fuel filter and was wondering where the best....and worst places are to fit it. Do they work better in a vertical orientation or equally as good horizontally?
I found a picture of one (horizontal) located between the metal fuel pump pipe and the carb metal feed, below and to the side of the thermostat housing. Being glass this seemed a sensibly rigid spot but perhaps not as safe as just before the fuel pump?
Thanks
Adrian
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If it is anything like mine I actually used 2 springs (Pt 5) to get enough resistance!
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Hi Pete you can count me in. I thought it would be booked up. In terms of topics I have a fear of electrics. I’m sure there’s a pun in there somewhere! If too broad perhaps Aidan can give me a tutorial?
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I was advised against bolting to the engine plate due to potential distortion - it is a heavy block. I bolted direct to the block but to be honest was never happy or confident whilst it was on. By the time you get the arms in a position to line up with the bock threads there was very little spread of the arms and certainly not even. I have a stand that rotates but once on didn't want to move it. In future if I need the block out and unless I needed to get to the sump again I'd drop it onto a wheel dolly which fitted perfectly. I know some members have a spare engine plate specifically for this purpose.
Adrian
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OMG forget the envy Icon I can't find the strangled by your own pile of junk also in the garage Icon. I think we should consider a man cave visit!
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6 hours ago, dave.vitesse said:
You did ask "What should Code 19 White look like?" I guess hence the response. Loads of white cars, you got to remember we are all proud of them hence any opportunity!
I am glad you got it sorted as it can be a problem where a non Triumph colour has been used.
Well done.
Dave
100% agree we can only answer what is asked and as always wander amongst the tulips on the way. Ford paint and triumph paint is unlikely to be same although because of the links I believe triumph and rover do/can have similar variants.
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Totally agree - I bought my car being told it was old English. It is actually Code 19 Triumph white. I think there are possible subtle differences as I had some made up and it was slightly different. I might be wrong but the new paint seems to be a little richer on off whites, does the weathering or polishing of paint bleach the colour?
The pics aren't necessarily true to colour either.
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I don’t know the screw spec but have you tried Spalding fasteners, they seem to have a wide range and I’ve used them for some out of stock fastenings.
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Well learnt something new, thought it was just a simple bracket to House the radio!
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I’ve used the helicoil in alloy sealing block and went in a treat. I do believe people have mixed views though on the durability, etc. But it’s not a high stress area. But I’d follow Petes advice, cut out, replace and recap in original.
good luck
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Oh Pete, what can I say....must be too used to centralising gears. Sailed through the mot today though.
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Well, what can I say just got a quote from Peter James at £220 for the two cars Hagarty my current insurers came up with a comparable quote (2k miles for me and the wife). Maybe because I'm only 51 I'm considered a boy racer in the classic car world!
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its Been a question ive been meaning to ask. Once at 45 I just get a load of noise and no power. Has the previous owner rebuilt the carbs wrong or is there another issue? I’m sorry to the triumph faithful but regardless of lack of performance there is no excuse for putting a smile on my face!
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Wish I was that organise - I start out with the best intentions but end up with a workbench covered in old and new components and still cant find some I removed but am certain haven't been discarded. I even put them in boxes with the associated component, Douglas Adams never documented a nut and bolt planet, just the ball point pens but that's my justification as to why I can't find anything!
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Must admit when I recently refitted my manifold I torqued up the nuts I could get to then applied a spanner to the same and 'estimated' the force needed to very slightly move the nut. Then with a fully calibrated hand and bicep did the same to the inaccessible ones. Very DIY but we all know we can spend a fortune on tools that we may only use once.
Adrian
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I suppose that’s the eternal question. People will only pay what they think they are worth. I don’t think they are too common as a lot of cars have the alloys and original steels demoted to trailers. Probably not as rare as the 5.5 triumph wheels but I wanted the option for going back to original. I only paid £10 a wheel.
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Well, I’m now the new owner of the seats and yes, they are in very good condition. No doubt I’ll be asking for help in the fitting once I’ve read the various threads and fitting instructions on this website!
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I really like the look of them and have been tempted but unwilling to pay more than a couple of hundred as already stated, impractical and still need to be fitted, etc. I guess I’ll just have to admire from afar!
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Barry,
Don't beat yourself up, I did exactly the same. It was so tight I couldn't figure it was a removable item. I had exactly the same advice. Careful hacksaw and lever cut with driver or chisel. Came out a treat thanks to the forum gurus! I have to say I've got many T shirts as I am a mechanical novice. But the forum is very kind.
Don't be scared to ask, you can only be ridiculed!
Adrian
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That was my thought both using a dial gauge and jacked up hub and the cash element.
Pete I think one was slightly out of round. My view is i'll check and get done if they are only slightly off. Lets face it its a mini 1000 not a rally cooper!
Cheers
Adrian
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Hello all
I bought some original mini wheels at a cheap price and consequently in a known poor rusted condition. I took them to a wheel refurbishers who checked them out and put them on his wheel balancer, not to balance but to check trueness. He said they were out of true and needed straightening at £45 per wheel. Whilst I am not an expert I could only see a very slight 1mm possibly 2mm deflection on a couple of wheels.
I ask at the alter of knowledge, is there and acceptable limit to irregularities in steel wheels? I've looked on the internet but haven't had any luck.
Many Thanks
Adrian
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So would a door barrel fit in the fuel cap housing?
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Whilst I don’t have this issue, my cap seems to be slipping off the locking bar. Also I’ve looked on the usual sites but can’t see a replacement lock barrel as the key occasionally jams.
any advice?
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Struts got loads of resistance, must be my ebbing strength!
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Best Place for inline fuel filter
in Fuel System
Posted
Don’t bring that heated oil filter theread over here!