Adrian

Happy new year all! I've received my new leather covers and foam from Park Lane Classics and what fantastic covers they are! On stripping back the seats it is clear that the webbing is in need of replacement as well. I don't want to spend the £80 or so on ready made (and currently out of stock) Pirelli straps as I can buy 5m for £25-30 and make up the strap using the original hooks. Has anyone done this and have a list of lengths of strap? The alternative fall back position would be to make 1/4 inch shorter to fit onto the frame with some tension. Cheers Adrian

I'll be up in derby the week after next picking my daughter up from uni

Hello Andrew I've got a compressor my engineer mate knocked up for me - typically over engineered! Worked well for my refurb using adjustable avo's. you're more than welcome to borrow it. Lichfield. I don't know if the spring top plate differs between models as there are 3 holes drilled to house the top plate threads. Adrian

This winter I am planning on installing the tssc moulded carpet set in the gt6. I'd like your opinion on what underlay to use, I'm sure there are mixed opinions. Also where to install, is there a sound/heat shield installation guide. There appears to be a large selection of bitumen, foam, foil and fibre products. A lot are really expensive so don't want any false starts! Thanks Adrian

Thanks for the replies so far. As to the cause I don't know, I've only had the car a year. Perhaps a historic problem or maybe an original casing error for part that required the bearing lock and a previous owner didn't use during a rebuild and consequently the rotation has exacerbated the movement. Thanks for the loctite recommendation I was looking at the loctite 638, both a lot cheaper that a new part! Cheers Adrian

Hello all Sorry for the continued questions about bearings, etc, but it is a steep learning curve. But I've changed one side on my rotoflex (CV converted) Mk 3 and decided the change the other. When extracting the outer race I noticed it was quite easy to remove and as per attached photo the outside of the race is discoloured suggesting it has been rotating in the hub. In addition, the replacement was easy to seat and when the inner race was put in the outer race slid forward which in my uneducated mind suggests the hub is worn. Short of getting an engineer to put a sleeve in or something I think I know the answer. If so can you suggest a good quality supplier at a reasonable price - Rimmers seem v expensive. Thanks Adrian

I've only been involve with old money cars for a year. I was fortunate to have older friends and my dad to allow for the acquisition of Britool sockets and some spanners (Britool, King Dick, Elora, etc) most not shinny!. Although to fill in some gaps I did go for the value shinny Halfords professional 7 piece spanner set - whilst I use them a lot the shafts on the Halfords spanners are thin and do dig into the hand when pressure is applied.

Hi Clive because I'm unsure I haven't bought any yet. Just to clarify it is all rattle can application. I've seen some forums that say it takes months for cellulose to dry fully and it can get reactivated by additional paint/clear coats (which concurs with your comment). I assume I'd have to go over the touched up celly with 1200 w+d to provide a key? I have spayed a hidden area for testing! Cheers

Hello, I've decided to keep my door capping off to expose the body colour underneath so I've touched up with cellulose. As it's on an area that is prone to wear I thought a modern hard coat of laquor will keep it looking good longer. Is this possible and sensible? Thanks

Gents, just as an update on the rasping noise. I'm in the process of renewing a suspect bearing and whilst off I noticed that the inner CV boot clamp was rubbing on the top of the chassis. As I has the CV conversion from Jigsaw I haver asked them for a solution. It certainly seems to be the most likely solution. Cheers Adrian

Hello all, following on from an earlier thread on grating sound. I propped the rear of the car up and under no load on the wheels there was no sound so it suggests that it maybe the bearings. Can you point me in the direction of a puller to remove the rear bearing from a gt6. I tried a screwfix 3 lever puller but the teeth didn't fit under the bearing! Or should I take my hub to my local garage? Thanks

Just thinking about the bearing issue. The new cv shafts had the spacers on and no other shims as it was originally with the rotoflex. As I've said I have about 1mm at the wheel. Just to further my knowledge when shimming, does the shim close up the play on the bearing or does it increase it? When I took it out again I noted that when going around a corner it reduced/stopped. Any further info?

Thanks for the replies so far. I've jacked up the back end and spun the wheels both ways. The right one didn't have an obvious grate during the rebuild anyway and seems fine. The left, I had to back off the adjuster to remove the drum, had a look inside and all seems well, possibly a bit of drum rub on the backplate but no real scoring. When put back together, no grating when spun although I haven't readjusted the brake yet. I think I'll go back out in it and give it a try. Richard, thanks, I've read about the 24 hrs full pressure wasn't sure if it was valid but I'll give it a go.

Hello all I've fully re-bushed, refurbed my rear suspension and drive train with the Jigsaw CV conversion. As per guidance I've got approx. 1mm on the wheel for the end float (no shims required) and used existing bearings as they were sound. I noted a noise (rasping / grating) only during part rotation of the hub, I thought it was the brakes needing seating so I took it out for a spin and it proved to be persistent but reduced when I went around a corner. Any Ideas? Also I know this is drive train thread but to save lots of posts, never having bled brakes before (I think they are a bit too spongy) how much fluid does the system hold, I used approximately 500ml? Many thanks

Alan, they were nice seats, you beat me to it. I just wasn't sure if there was a difference in the seats between models!

That's interesting Steve. I have it in a carcoon for the wetter months unless I'm working on it. Other than ventilation, what options have you seen for inside treatment. I must say for the most part, knowing it was restored somewhere between 13-25 years ago I got a really solid car (so far!)

Why do these jobs always take longer than expected! Anyway after two coats of Por 15, Two of etch primer and two of white stone chip (a little touch up required in places) I am going to put on a coat of Dinitrol HP clear as a final layer. This is a clear coat but apparently does have a milky appearance and therefore the true colour won't come through. As per the photo the stone chip is a 'white' white as opposed to the Triumph White of the body colour. (which I will be using on the outer sill area). I hoped the finish would be a little better than achieved but axle stands didn't really give me much room to apply evenly! Your thoughts would be appreciated given that a purist would say yes but at the end of the day won't be seen. Thanks

As far as I can tell - smooth as a babies....! Only very very fine milling marks you can just feel with your nail. Ignore the rust - they've been sitting around for 6 months. Cheers Adrian

Hi Andrew, I have a gt6 and mine is completely stripped out with no pit, just a jack and standard stands. Assuming the geometry is the same it's a piece of cake. A mate made me the spring lifter. Garth should be able to furnish you with the fixings and bushes depending on what you want. Shocks and bushe sources are obviously down to your preference. I might be wrong but the difference are different ratios based on overdrive, etc. There are plenty of knowledgeable chap here that will put you straight. If you have the manual it should be straight forward. Cheers Adrian

No it's not concours but am wanting to get it to a good standard, bubble wrap, really? I wanted a sound car to learn on and boy, talk about a steep learning curve, I think I'm going to have to get a longer rope! But it is SOOO much fun! It's great that daft questions can be asked on this forum. My thoughts were originally the clear waxoyl but will look into the dinitrol for the cavities. It's not a perfect job because I'm doing it with the chassis still on so there are areas I can't get too, so the spray dinitrol would be a good finisher in those areas. Thanks to all

Interesting stuff - I probably know the answer but if I used the thinner stuff for the arches to penetrate seams etc - is it over paintable? - I assume probably not. Having spent days removing the old black tarry stuff I am a bit reluctant to spray new stuff back on. So far then it seems the consensus is unblock and leave unblocked.

Hi Clive I've been questioning the need to etch on top of the POR15 just rough it up before it cures fully was the other option. The actual system is degreaser, etcher (metal prep), por15 and topcoat with whatever you like. S you wouldn't use a grommet in the drainage holes? Is the Dinotrol the treatment of choice for the majority of the forum. I don't intend to use it in the wet so was considering just leaving the paint - a quick inspection would then show any issues that were developing.

Hello all As I'm sure you all know you start out with one intension and it soon escalates. I've been stripping the accursed underseal off the car as I didn't like the fact it could be covering up problems for the future. Glad I did as in parts where paint was still present it was working admirably but where it was absent (there was seriously no trace of paint ever having been there) the body was fairly well rusted and pitted in places, locally the underseal had actually delaminated away from the body. Fortunately it is all sound with no perforations and a good amount of strength still present so fully salvageable. The three holes at the base of the sills were however full of underseal. Can I ask - would you unseal the holes, clean out and use a grommet? And also what your view is on underseal (I intend to use Por15, etch primer, Stone chip and body colour paint, possibly with clear waxoyl) Thanks Adrian

I've just had my GT6 Mk 3 front bumper re-chromed (triple plate) at Castle Chrome in Dudley. I know it's not local but they did a superb job and I wouldn't hesitate to go back. I rarely commission anything without checking it out first and it is a genuine small metal finishing business which I found amusing when I collected it and the chap was scratching his head, rummaging through piles of finished packages wondering where it had been put! It's local to my work so I dropped it off and collected it, they did it for £220 cash - I didn't ask any questions as I had another quote for £400 and have heard triple can cost even more than that! Turn around was 4 weeks but I think this is variable depending on workload. Perhaps not feasible for you but hopefully the information may be useful. Adrian

Thanks Pete Just in the interest of clarity I've attached a good in focus picture of my vice and a blurred picture of the spring eye. Is this the sleeve you were eluding to? If so that extra couple of millimetres should make all the difference. Cheers