Adrian

Hi Euan I can't say I've used the DEOX stuff - I opted for the POR 15 system and I have to say I'm impressed although as with anything only time will tell. To reiterate the above, rusting is a chemical reaction that actually increases the volume of the steel as a result of oxidation. Rust treatment effectively reverses the oxidised metal back to solid metal via a chemical acid reaction - although it obviously cant reform flakes back to a solid piece of steel. So the advice of mechanically removing loose rust is sound. Those systems that leave the additional zinc/phosphatic coating obviously provide additional protection. Unless I'm mistaken they all convert rust so ultimately remove it. Obviously the more you mechanically remove the less original metal you have to work with. Good luck!

Hi Paul, my shafts didn't need a press (which was good as I dont have one). Provided the splines are aligned / engaged correctly and you have enough thread the torquing of the nut should pull the shaft through the rest of the way. Although I didn't do it correctly I thought the canley instructions comprised of dry assembly without the shaft (I.e. Everything pressed into place and using a small flat piece of metal and feeler gauge on the faces). Although, once torqued I suppose you could withdraw the shaft and them measure? Not sure if that helps or hinders further. I know there are lots of endfloat / bearing discussions on here. Cheers Adrian

Pete spot on as always, seems the same as the gt6. Stripped mine to bare metal before painting - well and truly attached, possibly sweated in as I can't recall any weld. If you look on the canley parts diagram it is a single component. I'd suggest getting a replacement depending on how loose. You don't want a pin rattling around in there

Saw a green TR6 and brown Stag on the A38 Sutton Coldfield today, members cars?

Sorry, just to follow on from Peter comment. Surely the com should be monitoring the forum to assess the membership and their opinions. If I recall correctly the forum was one of the biggest areas that members used!

I'd just like to add as a newish member. This forum for knowledge exchange and the club shop are the most significant aspect of my joining in the first place. My only exposure to the club to date has been via these conduits, please don't erode these benefits.

I think those are what I had, I could look up the receipt if you like for the ones I got. Should have said mine was for the gt6 but if I'm not mistaken they use the same components. I can measure my unused ones as a check if you like

Hi Paul If I've got this right, because you have the 0.017 space and no end float at all, once you tighten up the hub nut your wheels won't go round and if driven will probably over heat the bearings very quickly amongst doing other damage. If you have measured correctly the addition of shims to achieve the 1-2 thou end float will allow you to pinch up to full torque without loading the bearings. Definitely one job I didn't enjoy! Leacy classics do a 5 and 10 thou shim if you want to cut down the number you use. Just double check the part as they do many more shims for other applications. You might find a bigger spacer as well. Cheers Adrian

I needed some as I have a new radiator / hoses etc. Just bought exactly the same from Eurocarparts via amazon for £13.49. Eurocarparts are selling it direct for £19.49, both with free delivery. No wonder our economy is a mess!

There are obviously more knowledgeable people here, but my pennies worth is I didn't have shims on my rotoflex either, just a spacer. If I'm correct the shims are just used to adjust subtly variations in the manufacturing as there were also a number of different sized spacers. I needed to add shims when I did my CV conversion but as that was an effectively new driveshaft that was to be expected. I believe generally what came off should go back on with rebuilds using old components. Have you torqued up the rear hub nut to the full 110 lbs to bed everything in? As based on your measurements at full torque the wheel would be locked solid. When you disassembled was your hub nut loose at all? Cheers Adrian

I'm with Pete on this one. I'm no expert but it seems unlikely that you'd get such a noticeable judder from the rotoflex unless it's damaged? Do you get the judder on full lock (tyre rub?) or just straight back? I put a set on from jigsaw which I believe are the same as the clubshop. Yes, expensive, but I don't need to worry about the rotoflex degrading. Not perfect, the cv boot clip rubs on the top of the chassis very slightly. But then I'm still on points and haven't got round to electronic ignition yet which would probably be the biggest impact when done! Cheers Adrian

Ok thanks for that chaps. The more I looked into it the more It seemed apparent that the shoulder position on my first photo must have just been the buckle holder! Who knows, I might actually be able to have a drive soon!

Ok fellas, it's not as straightforward as it appeared. The new kit only came with one loop eye which would have to go on top of the wheel arch. My original static belt was just that, fixed points, no loop eye. It must be possible to get an extra loop eye for the shoulder position (roughly where the nut is in the picture). Any ideas? Thanks as always

Hi all Just wanting a sense check please. The club shop ran out of model specific printed instructions and sketched on a piece of paper which I've currently misplaced! I'm going to fit inertia reel belts to the GT6. I know I have to mount the reel vertically onto the wheel arch and have the strengthening plates for this. Can I use the configuration pictured below, using the shoulder height (former static belt holder) bolt to mount an inertia bracket? (sadly I don't have the rear seats). Thanks

Either way its a damn shame we weren't able to say farewell in a proper manner so, Juppy, if you are reading this you'll be sorely missed!

I realise that tough decisions have to be made to ensure the longevity of the club and as a new member it has been a great source of information and advice. I understand that changes are a common factor in ensuring that businesses / clubs are efficient and at least break even, so well done in making such decisions, lets hope you achieve your targets. Nevertheless, I for one am saddened that the shop manager will no longer be present, as with the rest of the forum Garth has been a great source of information and helped me a great deal in my on-going restoration and heading off errors in parts buying. Regards Adrian

Well the order no was 610170. How or why I would order that when on the GT6 page I have no idea. All I can say is XL! Cheers Adrian

Thanks Pete As always a nice clear answer. How on earth I managed to order a H/V strap from the gt6 page I'll never know! I'll send them back unless anyone else wants a pair with postage at cost? Cheers Adrian

Hi all After a discussion with Garth and a look at the Mk3 Gt6 at the club we realised all my door check straps did was prevent the door from over extending and wouldn't keep it open. Attached is a photo of the drivers door strap and the new one from James Paddock. I'm wondering if they are the right size? Clearly its not the same size or shape as the original -has anyone else fitted these as it would suggest the door won't open as far? I'm wondering if they are the right size? Regardless of the above how on earth does it fit? The pin marked up as 'Moss' surprisingly obviously attaches to the door bracket. The end with the big washer goes on the body frame where there seems to be a small housing with a check strap sized opening at the back. Should the rubber washer get jammed through the hole in the door frame (pictured) and then tweeked so the strap is re-inserted from the back of the housing to locate in a the horizontal bracket , through the washer in the housing and out to the door? or does the rubber ring fit at the back as well? And finally where does the oval rubber bracket go? Many Thanks Adrian

You could always try Leacy Classics in Brum

Hi Personally I have only been tinkering with the car for 18 months and whilst I have done a full rebuild of suspension, bushes, bearings, etc I have had an incredibly steep learning curve. Whilst I think I am very practical and hands on, car mechanics is relatively new to me and everything I do is new so the forum and you chaps have been a great help. Count me in on any tutorials, perhaps people from the midlands want to meet up an attend together? Of the things I have done I think end float has been the most worrying. Of the things to do I haven't touched electrics (courtesy light switches don't seem to work and I think I need a new stabilizer) or the engine bay I probably need to lift the engine to sort sump gasket, or out to allow full refurb of the bay. If I mess with a distributor how can you tell if it is set right or advanced etc. Whilst it may not be appropriate for peoples time at such a gathering - I'd appreciate a tutorial in basic diagnostics. Cheers Adrian

When having a bumper rechromed I asked about the door handles. Basically they said they could re-chrome and it would better than they were BUT aged / pitted MAZAK does not take rechroming as well as new and the finish would not be perfect. I decided to get a set from paddocks as I needed new locks - I've kept the old ones just in case I need parts. As can be seen above there are some failures and successes!

Hi Richard I did the same last year with a varying degree of success. I tried to follow the sage advice given on the forum but did find it difficult to accurately measure the end float (I didn't have a dti) . I'm sure if the forum held a practical masterclass in these techniques we would all breath a sigh of relief as you can't beat seeing a skilled individual in action! Nevertheless I obtained some shims from Leacy Classics and followed pretty much Petes advice. Trial and error. Adding shims increases the end float. If you have greased up your bearings they will bed in and you will need to recheck the wheel wobble (I believe typically less than 1mm). I did a CV conversion so was 'just' able to flex the driveshaft with the brake pipe still attached to add/remove shims so I didn't have to bleed the brakes each time. One side still isn't quite right as there is a slight rubbing/grinding sound (possibly drum on brake back plate). Hope that helps

Hello all I think I'm starting to understand the domino effect of owning a classic! I have been stripping out the interior with a view to renovating the interior bodywork prior to new carpets etc but as the handbrake is now fully accessible I thought I'd investigate why it doesn't ratchet up like modern cars. Ever since I bought it applying the handbrake seems to be pot luck if / when it catches. I found a breakdown of a herald diagram as attached showing the early / late mechanisms. Mine is push button to release type. As can be seen on the photo my Pawl just flaps there - I'd have thought there should be a spring or something to ensure the pawl in engaged with the ratchet all the time until the button is pressed. I know the previous owner fiddled with it - could he have missed out a spring somewhere? I hope its a valid question this time as I am building up the pile of 'T-shirt' questions! Thanks Adrian Handbreake.pdf

Just to complete the circle I have now finished this task. I reused the existing staples and metal brackets - although I did buy new ones with plastic plates but as they were a different sixe I used the staples only as a backup. I got the webbing from Skiddaw Upholstry - very quick delivery. I got 6m and used 4.2m - no mistakes so 5m will be an ideal length. The sizes were from top of seat to bottom for 38mm Pirelli webbing GT6 Mk 3 1972 Roto. Note the lengths are for the flattened loops but not stretched. Part No. 816809 - 25cm 816810 - 28.5cm 816801 - 31.5cm 816811 - 34.5cm 816752 - 25.5cm x 2 So a nice relaxing 4 hours and a cost of less that £30 - Job done! Saves giving other suppliers £80 plus!