Adrian

Yes, Those are the spacers, so you can get the fine shims to achieve that elusive end float!

Try leacey classics in Birmingham, that's where I got mine from

Forgot to say you shouldn't need to remove the driveshaft if you drop the vertical link.

I did have a lifter and very useful it was for return adjustments. Costly for a one off but whilst you can do it with clamps and straps particularly as you just have to take the load rather than lift it a long way, it is by far safer to use a lifter. its all down to the equipment you have. Maybe someone in your area has one?

Hello Keith. Did the conversion on my GT6 mk3 last year. I'm afraid you are partially right. I was able to undo the top of the vertical link and drop it forward to manoeuvre the shaft out to adjust shimming although if you races are damaged you may have to remove the link to drift out. I was able to do this with the brake pipe still connected, just! adrian

That's good to know - I can carry on as planned! No carbs or manifold on. I knew I wouldn't get anywhere near - just wondered about the observed variation.

Wolf Just check compatibility with other products if you decide to use paint over rust. I never experienced it but some people reported wrinkling but then I did allow mine to dry full - they say if you paint whilst it is still tacky (typically 2 hours) the undercoat sticks without the need for sanding first - I preferred to take the time to make sure it was dry first. Don't worry about all the people saying wrap up like a spaceman to avoid it getting on your skin because it doesn't come off. It doesn't but that's the same as most paints. once your skin starts producing oils most of it rubs off within 24 hrs. I think Frost and Holden are the principal suppliers although I did get the engine enamel off ebay. Good luck!

Hi Wolf Marine clean is great stuff you don't have to use gallons, just keep it wet (2 or 3 applications over 20-30 mins). I haven't tried everything on the market but its a 1000 times better than heavy duty degreaser from screwfix (its just concentrated soap). It has to be rinsed off with water so ideally your sloping drive would be perfect. I also used the metal prep which is an acid etch and leaves a phosphatic coating, again a great key for the next layer. I spent days on my back hot air gun and scraper in hand taking off underseal, washing off with white spirit, mechanical wire brushing surfaces to metal before starting the above. Below are a few pics of my progress last year. I don't mind the odd drip as I only had about 15" clearance to work with. I finished it all off with Dinitrol Clear wax. Not sure if the pics will load as its a new system so we will see!

Hi all Now I know this isn't right but I've cranked the engine by hand (engine is out) just to check compression consistency (I've only just got a tester). So I know I can't achieve proper compression (my arm only works so fast) but noted that I got around 70 in 6, 5 and 3. 4 was 50 and 1 and 2 was 20-30. Even by hand that seems to be a big variation. The engine ticked over quite nicely before I took it out with no oil burning, etc. I haven't check the valve clearances as yet. The car history seems to be a replacement engine was put in around 1990 at the same time the speedo was zeroed so basically the car has done 23K in that period. I know it tends to be a house of cards when dealing with this sort of thing and have enjoyed (ish) learning but I really don't want to be messing with piston rings - particularly as the sump has been on twice already, thanks to a stripped thread! If I read the manual right, compression should be 140ish? So I assume muscle power has only achieved 50% and so 6, 5 and 3 are OK and 1, 2 and 4 are lacking. I'm hoping it may be valve settings. Any thoughts? Many thanks and looking forward to the 17th.

Hi Wolf From a fellow novice I did a lot of reading about the POR15 products. I've never spay painted but fortunately with the exception of the engine bay all of my remedial works have been associated with the underside of the car. I personally rate the POR15 products very highly but you must follow the degreasing preparation methods for best results. However they are very expensive. I've used the POR15 rust preventative - brushed on - great finish and as advertised highly durable - but not completely resistant to slight flaking / chipping around fixing points or where it may not have been entirely grease free. Needs a fair bit of sanding to provide a key for undercoat/topcoat unless you use the POR15 etch primer. I didn't - I used Tetrosyl etch primer (rattle can). I used the POR15 etch primer on suspension components along with the POR15 Topcoat. In hind sight I should of used the rust preventative here as well as I noticed the topcoat is softer and the primer does chip a little (when catching with tools etc). If I was being honest, probably the tetrosyl etch primer does a similar if not better job in this application. High temperature engine enamel - high solids. Sorry Pete - black gloss. But wonderful finish for brushed paint, single coat gave full coverage. So to cut a long story short with the exception of the engine enamel, unless you use the rust preventative paint you will probably get the same but cheaper from alternative products. Hope that helps with regard to POR15 Adrian

I've read that packing the oil pump with Vaseline is the method to ensure suction is achieved. If correct is that all of the voids packed in the main pump housing? Can it be primed with oil via the distributor housing? I don't have an oil pressure gauge and will probably be a few weeks before the engine is put back in the car. Any other tips would be much appreciated. Cheers Adrian

ARRRHHHHH I can't believe it .......I have another engagement that Sunday. Is there any chance we could look at the 24th? I've achieved the end float by trial and error, hopefully never again! Adrian

Count me in too. Pete I have my discarded rotoflex driveshaft if someone has an old link perhaps for end float tutorial? Cheers Adrian

Good question. I'm at this stage as well and have been asking myself what would be best to do as what came off after 40+ years is highly unlikely to be original. Mine generally have a light coat of black (although not very good now). My gut feel is the rear plate should be subject to minimal oil so a light coat (full coat in exposed areas) whilst the front plate is sandwiched between oily areas so paint after assembly of timing cover. Adrian

Just trying to keep this to one thread. As you know I'm going slow. I'm at the crank shaft. I haven't removed the timing sprockets yet - just looked in from the removed sump to inspect the big end bearings. Attached are the photos of the front bearing and the Journal. the others are similar. As you can see it is not a mirror finish. Thoughts? Also I've seen online videos showing people measuring end float by clamping the crank on one side an measuring down the side of the big end bearing. Mine has no discernible movement, but could that be because I( haven't stripped the sprocket end? Cheers

Hello Chaps I did say I'd update you on the refurbished manifold once I got it back from Ian. Attached are the pic of the full refurb. Including - drill out old steel tube and replace with SS Remove old banjo bolt and retap (Chris Witor SS bolt bought Bead blasted and blasted through All faces ground flat - slight warp, particularly notable on block face Moulding flash removed all threads cleaned and re-tapped New brass banjo Now only got to sort the engine - famous last words! Cheers

I've got a picture of the club museum car, whilst a lot straighter it is showing a slight droop. I think we can all agree a droop is part of the ageing process!

Ok I'm taking this slowly, I'm waiting for the correct 5/16 bolts to arrive to put it on the stand (bolting into the block). In the mean time I've taken off the timing cover and found grooves on the tensioner and approx 11.5mm play on the chain. As I have to take the sprockets off to get to the sealing block I assume I should change both as the chain is close to the Haynes manual 13mm limit. What play do you normally get on a new chain? Any suggestions for decent quality tensioner suppliers or are they much of a muchness? Never thought I'd be going this deep! Cheers

Thanks Pete - so is that all the core plugs in the block? Also can you tell me is the back plate (photo) strong enough to bolt onto an engine stand? If not where would the fixing points be? Thanks

Hello Chaps Further to the sump gasket possible insitu installation, manifold refurb, etc. I've taken the plunge and decided to remove the engine - this will also allow a better clean-up of the engine bay. I've started to strip the engine ancillaries. Firstly would you re-use bolts, nuts studs, etc, even if nuts are seized on studs (so the stud removes). Once the exhaust manifold was off I noticed some rust on one of the core plug - does this need replacing? Would you use an automotive adhesive when refitting? Also there seemed to be a fair bit of oil under the distributor - are there any seals that may be needed? Jobs on the engine while out are - strip, clean, paint block - clean and paint ancillaries where appropriate - new sealing block - gaskets for water pump, timing chain housing, sump, etc - new club LUCAS distributor with electronic ignition - new water hoses / stainless overflow system etc That's roughly it along with some seals for the flywheel shaft if needed. The rocker cover isn't too bad but if it was to be re-painted what would you use? Thanks Adrian

I found Ian Gittings. Went over to see him and dropped it off. His garage was an Aladdins cave of engineering, not to mention manifolds of all sorts. I'll post a picture when I get it back.

Doug, my thoughts exactly. I think I have one of most seals / gaskets on the shopping list now. The engine was rebuilt 22000 miles ago by the owner before last >14 years ago. I've already noted the wrong gasket on one of the carbs, not necessarily catastrophic but may indicate that other inconsistencies may be present. I know it would be easier with the engine out but having just done the interior (not thinking much was wrong with the engine) I am a little reluctant. The absence of a hoist also restricts options.

Absolutely right regarding the sealing block - just checked for tightness of the sump nuts at the front. The two central nuts turn with very little effort - the others are nice and firm.

Richard, Doug The reference to rarer was Chris's words. Irrespective the fix is simple which is a great relief. Doug perhaps one too many pangalacticgargleblasters but couldn't find a direct replacement, now obvious as it was intergalactic to the casting. Richard the manifold certainly looks like the mk3 one on canleys website. Seems silly having an integral part susceptible to corrosion, but I suppose the didn't envisage them lasting this long. Adrian

OK - by way of update and hopefully conclusion. 1. Thanks for all of the advice - much appreciated. 2. Paul -Thanks for the offer of the manifold, hopefully won't need it but at least I know you have it. 3. Same with Colins offer. 4. I have spoken with Chris Witor. He said I had a rarer manifold with a cast inlet tube and to get it drilled out and install a 3/8 BSP thread to accommodate one of his stainless steel adaptors (I think it is the same as Pt 138810). Hopefully it will be a straight install once the seized parts are out! Thanks as always