AidanT

Hi I had a similar noise when "Coasting". and in the end was found to be the drivers side half shaft where the UJ is situated Its quite hard to spot. Suggest you try driving in circles in and empty car park clockwise and anti clockwise -for me the clunk was when going anticlockwise pointing to the offside UJ and half shaft. When it was removed you could see the whole UJ moving within the half shaft Solution - new UJ and half shaft Aidan

Hi once more - Back to this one as I am still not happy with the alignment I have with the three separate wood panels (Sorry me being OCD ) I think its time to possibly remove the bottom L shaped bracket and fit a further two Screws to the face of the panel trying to match up the ones at the top. Just a quick question if anyone else has fone down this route at all? - It would also have the advantage of not having to remove the dash support bracket which is a pain Any advice welcome! Aidan

Pete In respect of Rich's query in regard reversal of the wiring, Is it possible that reversing the wiring at the back of the Gauge would have the same impact? Its always possible that previous adjustments ended up with these wires being reversed It's something I have not tried yet (Tried most everything else!) Aidan

Thanks. I will take a look at the weekend on both

Not much history on mine Pete - only the last years that I have owned it! Aidan

Thanks Pete - in what direction am I looking for movement? and what amount? or is any movement in that joints a problem? If this is the issue do I need to do both sides? and which part number is the bush I need to replace? I was going to do a suspension rebuild anyway this winter with standard blue polybushes so would they be in a standard set of front suspension replacement bushes? Thx Aidan

Pete -sorry for my ignorance do you have a schematic of these parts? I have heard them before but don't actually know which parts they are !! Aidan

I have a slight clunk in my steering when it is under stress either on a corner at speed or manoeuvring the car slowiy such as putting it in to ta parking space, It’s just one clunk so when reversing the action nothing happens. The steering is straight along with the wheel alignment and the steering wheel returns to its original position afterwards and shows no sign of miss-alignment. Steering is tight with immediate response from steering wheel to wheels Do I have anything to worry about? , it has massed two MOT’s with this problem. Any ideas on what this might be? Thanks Aidan

Pete would you still suggest this if when you short out the sender the gauge goes all the way to and past full? Aidan

Hi, Just in case none if the above works and you want the gauge to read correctly: Mine also only reads 3/4 when the tank is full to the brim! I have checked and changed everything as described above apart from changing the gauge itself. I intend to get my gauge re-calibrated over the winter period and will be sending the new sender along with it so they can be matched. Will let you know how it goes ! Aidan

Well I did mine over the weekend - Not too bad I think - I also had to do a slight adaptation but here's the pic

Please send a picture in when you've done them! I have the original 1968 static Seat belts and yes they flew through the MOT They are the old Square hole type so I am assuming they will fit nicely Aidan

No idea why nothing was fitted in the MK1 to keep the belts tidy! I guess it was a bit of a novelty item at the time (Before anyone shouts at me - I know it's one of the safety feature that the car was originally sold on and I shouldn't call it a novelty!) Anyway I have managed to find some MK3 ones (I did say I was persistent!) - They are in the post. I am going to call it an upgrade to the original !!

Phew! I had a new prop when my car was upgraded with an o/d - Glad to say it was the one with the sliding spline!

Hi. Can someone clarify the difference between the two prop types please. Just for those of us with less technical knowledge Thx

Could well be! it was a picture on the Club Triumph forum of Cookies Mk3 You certainly have me thinking! but I will need the hooks in either case. You are right by the way they are as rare as hens teeth as originally fitted! but persistence is my middle name ! Ha

Hi Doug Yes I thought of doing that however the Mk one does not have an anchor point on the door pillar - I have seen pictures of them in a mk3 but never seen them fitted to a MK1 Not sure if you can fit them without the pillar mount plus if they do not have that mount it's difficult to reach back to get them. It's lucky I have long arms !!

Thanks Doug that's useful - Do you think its just held there with a self tapping screw then? Cheers Aidan

That's not a surprise from RB - £2.46 each plus delivery from a land rover parts supplier! Aidan

Hi - Would be grateful for a picture if you can provide one - The closest I have come to is a Landrover Stwage hook for seat belts part 347541 but don't know if its suitable or where and how to fit Thx

I am fed up with my static seat belts falling out the door when not in use. I don't want to fit inertia reel ones so has any one found a solution like fitting stowage hooks somewhere? Thx

Hi Not sure if this will help as I dont know if your issue is within the locking mechanism itself or the bar that operates it -however I did have an issue with mine to which this document helped a lot lock.pdf Aidan

Try again Final Post on this -Everything completed and now running on the 4 Life fluid from the club So Just some pointers 1 My car took just over seven litres but that's because I have a five Core Radiator which takes an extra half litre - From this the Capacity is 6.5 Litres from Dry 2 For cleaning, the proprietary cleaner came out worst, soda crystals were best 3 When Lime scale is solid and your block drain is blocked (no pun intended) squirt a little drain cleaner in the hole and but the bolt back in then attack with a small screwdriver with its end bent @ 90 degrees (the last ¼”) 4 Use vinegar to clear lime-scale deposits system burps are a good sign J Use the advice above! That’s it folks

Hi Final Post on this -Everything completed and now running on the 4 Life fluid from the club So Just some pointers 1 My car took just over seven litres but that's because I have a five Core Radiator which takes an extra litre - From theis the Capacity is 6.5 Litres from Dry

Hi again Back to this subject - I have now got new hinges and have manages to get the door and old hinges off (they and not the pins are knackered) Anyway just a quick question - In what order do you put the hinges back on to the doors and A post? IT seems that they are all adjustable in terms of position but once the flat philips head bolt is in place I wont be able to get at it again easily. Please can you advise on best way to put back and to align the dorr Thx Aidan