AidanT

Thanks Colin. All my three way switches seem to be a little dodgy so I am hoping to replace the switch mechanisms with the help of Pete Lewis. I will also check the bullet connectors Thx Aidan

Speedograph Richfield will refurbish and repair it. They are on the web

I have been reading up on this subject as I want to get my original wiper motor refurbished. The Haynes manual states that the car was fitted with a single speed motor but J Thomason guide to originality states a two speed. My toggle switch is also has three positions. Can anyone confirm it is in deed two speed? Part of the reason for the refurbishment is I only get one speed wherever the switch is Thanks Aidan

No pictures of the engine bay... missing s load of the standard badges, non-standard interior, no radio or blanking plate, and £20k OOOOOOOOOOOooooo I'm rich! HaHa

Just wanted to add my findings on this. I have also now replaced my voltage stabaliser. I now get the correct fuel readings, well close enough to get to a petrol station before I run out! Shows full when it is filled to.

John I agree with your statement however if this forum is used by others with a similar issue then it will cover more than the use of led bulbs Aidan

Hi all and thanks for the information I have today stripped down the gauge and have found the problem. The original standard bulb had blown so I had replaced it with an LED one. The problem with this is that the led bulb sends light directly ahead of it and not to the sides. The design of the gauge is such that it needs light to come from the side of the bulb. Light directly ahead is just bounced back to the bulb. Anyway light has to go to the top of the gauge and then reflected back as Pete says with where some white paint reflects the light down on to the scale and needle. There was no green filter in mine burnt or otherwise I will take your idea up Pete and add some foil to the white area so more light is reflected and of course revert to a normal bulb or and 'led that has led outputs to the side Aidan

The light bulb is working fine the light just doesn't seem to be getting through. Is there any issue in taking the gauge apart? Aidan

Hi Looking for some advice on dashboard instrument lighting. I have a standard ~Smiths small Fuel gauge which does not seem to illuminate. I have checked the bulb at the rear and this is working but no light would seem to be getting through to the face of the gauge. Does anyone have experience of taking these apart, knows why this is happening or has experienced the same? Thanks Aidan

I went with the suggestion Pete made to me some years ago. A 63. My Gt6 is a fair weather car and I have had no problems starting it after weeks in the garage. Aidan

I also damaged my original choke knob. A tee one. Mick Dolphin was able to supply a replacement @ 2.50. Quite a bargain. Has others I believe.

I did the swap on my 68 Mk1 this year - Pretty easy swap out although if you get a kit, the top bracket you get will be useless as was the fan belt supplied - just adjust the old top bracket and buy the right length belt - mine needed a 1500 mm one Anyway - even though my dynamo was OK, my lights are brighter and I can now fit other electrical ancillaries if and when I want to without any concern

Just completed the modification this weekend and now have four screws in each corner of the center dashbourd section. I have been able to align it perfectly with both side panels and have an even gap. I have been able to get rid of the L section metal bracket from the back All I am waiting for now is the return of my oil pressure / temperature gauge which I have out for refurbishment and illumination Will add a picture when its all done but so far I think it looks good Cheers

Definitely moulded unless you are a carpet fitter or an experienced tailor ! I fitted the cheaper version but wished I had gone for the moulded ones Aidan

Hi Colin I think my dash has sunk in it 48 years ! don't most things ! So the support bracket is an extremely tight fit and is in the way of the flat head bolts attaching the L bracket to the bottom of the metal facia behind the wood. So I have to remove the bracket to get to these bolts. My plan is to add a further two screws to the front Wood in to the the metal facia - I am not sure but I think the Mk3 is fitted this way ?? Aidan

Happy birthday Pete. I hope you have a great day Aidan

Pete Just wanted to add my best wishes and a large thankyou for all the help you have given me from my puchasee of the car and all the isssues since Aidan

Hi I had a similar noise when "Coasting". and in the end was found to be the drivers side half shaft where the UJ is situated Its quite hard to spot. Suggest you try driving in circles in and empty car park clockwise and anti clockwise -for me the clunk was when going anticlockwise pointing to the offside UJ and half shaft. When it was removed you could see the whole UJ moving within the half shaft Solution - new UJ and half shaft Aidan

Hi once more - Back to this one as I am still not happy with the alignment I have with the three separate wood panels (Sorry me being OCD ) I think its time to possibly remove the bottom L shaped bracket and fit a further two Screws to the face of the panel trying to match up the ones at the top. Just a quick question if anyone else has fone down this route at all? - It would also have the advantage of not having to remove the dash support bracket which is a pain Any advice welcome! Aidan

Pete In respect of Rich's query in regard reversal of the wiring, Is it possible that reversing the wiring at the back of the Gauge would have the same impact? Its always possible that previous adjustments ended up with these wires being reversed It's something I have not tried yet (Tried most everything else!) Aidan

Thanks. I will take a look at the weekend on both

Not much history on mine Pete - only the last years that I have owned it! Aidan

Thanks Pete - in what direction am I looking for movement? and what amount? or is any movement in that joints a problem? If this is the issue do I need to do both sides? and which part number is the bush I need to replace? I was going to do a suspension rebuild anyway this winter with standard blue polybushes so would they be in a standard set of front suspension replacement bushes? Thx Aidan

Pete -sorry for my ignorance do you have a schematic of these parts? I have heard them before but don't actually know which parts they are !! Aidan

I have a slight clunk in my steering when it is under stress either on a corner at speed or manoeuvring the car slowiy such as putting it in to ta parking space, It’s just one clunk so when reversing the action nothing happens. The steering is straight along with the wheel alignment and the steering wheel returns to its original position afterwards and shows no sign of miss-alignment. Steering is tight with immediate response from steering wheel to wheels Do I have anything to worry about? , it has massed two MOT’s with this problem. Any ideas on what this might be? Thanks Aidan