AidanT

Sorry euan typing on this plays havoc with its spell check!!!!

Doan. It may be the descriptions above that have fooled you a bit. The seal fits around the door aperture no the door itself. I can't believe your car would not have any it would be pretty drafty. !!!

I drilled and grpmmeted the rear plates to get the new ones in. A bit of a pain to do but easier than pulling the hubs ( unless of course you have the puller everyone recommends you use. This is all on another thread somewhere. ????

Yes you have to remove the front hubs. I can't remember if you had to chamfer the stud head on the landy ones to fit. The jigsaw ones are the same pattern as the originals Aidan

Hi. It was a recommendation I took up. Good quality 7/16 ones I got from jigsaw. They do extended length ones to. I believe 12 mm ones are readily available but need a bit of fettling I'm sure others can advise on this. Not sure what the offset is but the pcd is 95.25 Aidan

Pete Will you be adding an in-line fuse on the circuit? I have been looking at this but was wondering if a 10A or 15A fuse would be better Aidan

They arrived today and are in surprisingly good condition. Elastic is still good to so they can be fitted as standard. I am also thinking of the Crystal upgrade that's on another thread so they can stay cosy in the garage till spring! Aidan

Thanks for all the information links and thoughts I have managed to pick some up from fleabay for under £20 including delivery and I am quite happy with that Richard, hmm 27/6 new have I over paid???!! Ha Ha that's £1.37.5p ..........that's inflation for you!! Mishmosh - I will try your method of attachment as well when summer arrives and we travel for the first time to France in the GT6 for our holiday Thanks again Aidan

Hi Sorry no idea on the rimmers part but I recovered mine with a kit and advice from Park Lane Classics. It cost no more than about 30 pounds and was excellent You don't need any great skill to do it Aidan

Hi Pete. Are you using the same bulbs? Aidan

Blimey ! I know clearing my drain plug aperture last year was sun and games, it also had not been opened up for a long time, but I didn't find anything like that! Just good old rock solid calcium deposits from the south east where the car originated! It will be interesting to see if it has any impact on how much cooler the engine runs. Aidan

Update I managed to dismantle the current set up at the weekend, and found that there was a lot of movement between parts 14 and 1. It was only a small movement on the split pin but that equated to over an inch of free movement on the pedal. So I have added an additional split pin futher up @ 90 degrees to the original. I will now see if this resolved the issue. I can now see the original engineering concept of the assembly. The pedal shaft is held under tension supposedly by the double coil lock washer no:8 above, unfortunately the fulcrum bracket (no 4) is rather soft metal and so bends inward releasing the tension. I think I may have to fabricate a replacement for this at some point. The alternative is to heat treat it but i can't remember if that makes it harder or Softer! Anyway the additional spring awaits its use if the rattle persists! Aidan

Thx Clive. I will keep my eyes on those. Aidan

Hi My Dad had these and I am trying to find out if they are still available. From memory I think his were actually yellow tinted but they fitted over the front lights and converted the light direction for driving in Europe. It seems a much better idea to me than sticking on those patches that cover part of the lens. Surely they reduce the overall light for driving. Anyway, if anyone knows if they are still available that would be great Thx Aidan

I will be adding further to this as I am about to fit an additional internal return spring this weekend. I currently have a standard set up as per the diagram on the right below. My plan is to add a spring between the item No:4 plate and the pedal shaft. I think if I get the hole in the shaft in the right position the spring will be under tension even when the pedal is not being depressed I am going to adapt another return spring from the Vitesse 122392 Aidan

Received the new lip seals. So where do you place the join? Top bottom A post or B post? Aidan

Mike is still the Guy you need for Gearboxes overdrives and diffs. Was at his place about 10 months ago now and Hes a very busy guy so persist if you are trying to get hold of him Aidan

Expensive but http://www.carcapsule.co.uk/copy-of-carcapsule-18-outdoor/ I have an indoor one and can vouch for that. Aidan

Hi Dave Bleed nipple in the lower / bottom hole? I don't think that's the correct position air gathers at the top so the bleed nipple needs to be at the top to allow the air to escape Aidan

Sand blassting will damage the surface of the metal. There are a few that blast with a powder which is better or if you able to completely strip it down then there's dipping Aidan

He can be really difficult to get hold of. Try a text, that worked for me Aidan

Rarebits are showing the lip type for the gt6. There also seems to be some "squashed" or oval type bubble ones on the market. Mine are pretty circular. Would the lip type work on a gt6?

Thanks John I will try the various springs that I have around the place. and see what happens. I don't want to make the pedal to hard though so will not be using anything like a brake or clutch Return spring (PN:14438) they I would assume would be too hard - Going on Pete's comment Something like the Vit6 set up - unfortunately they are no longer available. Any ideas on a suitable spring would be appriciated Aidan

Definitely Vertical, could well be down to harmonics, Its quite intermittent as well. I am not sure what impact weighting the pedal would have, the throttle return spring does not put a massive load on the assembly, its quite well balanced, but I will have a go anyway and see what results I get Thx Adian

As a MK 1 GT6 originally non-overdrive owner here are my thoughts for what they were worth - It depends on what you want,what you care about, and how big your wallet is! For me it was - Cost / Reliability and Originality (to some respect). My original gearbox was quite tired and pretty sloppy,I was not happy about the cruising speed on longer runs, but I didn't want to fit something that just doesn't belong! So, purchased a Mk 3 box with J Type o/d and all the ancillaries, This was re-built, and also fitted by Mike Papworth. I kept the same rear diff as mine is lovely and quiet. There was a tiny bit of tunnel removed (A few inches) to make the fit easier. mike got me a new prop shaft to fit, there's no point in my mind to getting them re-built as they are not expensive new, in fact its the same price to refurbish so why bother? My engine is not the original either so another reason I was not worried about the Mk 3 box, plus I was advised that this was the best of the Triumph boxes This was the least expensive option I could find for the quality so how big is your Wallet ?? Leave it to you Aidan