rulloyd
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Posts posted by rulloyd
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The noise is out of O/d btw. I haven’t tested in in o/d.
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Same noise in reverse. Same nose in gears 1-3. 4 actually seems ok. This is on axle stands. Difficult to hear where the noise is coming from but it sounds most pronounced where the gearbox joins the o/d. Honestly sounds like no oil. Because the car is not level when raised, I put in 1.4 litres as manual specifies rather than using the dribble out method. I assume that wouldn’t be a problem. Slightly lower at the back.
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Hi Jonny. O/d. Solenoid is clicking on axle stans ok but I can’t hear it when the engine is running. Too noisy. I did wire up the demister indicator to the o/d relay which for is indicating it’s working. At least in 4th. But I’m guessing I didn’t give it time to build hydraulic pressure.
it’s the noise I’m worried about. I didn’t try reverse I’ll go give it a go. -
Finished most of the jobs retro fitting the o/f (recon) so took it on a short road test. It was running ok for about 5 minutes. I tried engaging o/d but couldn’t tell any difference and my rev counter isn’t working. Suddenly gearbox started making a horrible noise (like I’d not put oil in) which I had. It’s doing it out of 0/d in all gears and the same engaging gear on axle stands. Any ideas? All advice very much appreciated. Video attached. I was pointing the camera at the back end but couldn’t tell where the sound was coming from.
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The o/d loom I bought for my o/d conversion excluded an earth wire for the inhibitor switch. Is it sufficient just to wire to a bolt/nut in the gearbox please?
many thanks
Rich
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The o/d loom I bought for my o/d conversion excluded an earth wire for the inhibitor switch. Is it sufficient just to wire to a bolt/nut in the gearbox please?
many thanks
Rich
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I ran a wire just in case 👍
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I’ve mounted the relay hidden inside the car on a plastic plinth. I’m presuming the body doesn’t need to be earthed, or does it?
Many thanks for all advice
Rich
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On 10/04/2024 at 09:28, 68vitesse said:
Only trouble I had was a balance weight on the front of the propshaft catching the tunnel with someone in front passenger seat, solved it by turning chassis plate over to drop rear of gearbox/overdrive.
Rear mount to chassis plate bolts are awkward to get to when everything installed, I cut a slot for a screwdriver in the nut end to let me rotate the bolt while holding the nut still.
Regards
Paul
I didn’t have that problem, probably because it’s a new prop which ic considerably narrower, but I did find the prop uj plate at the front drivers side is turning very close to the tunnel. When I fitted the cover (ie the one that covers the section of tunnel removed) it squeezed the tunnel sufficiently that the uk plate was catching.
I could turn the chassis plate over put that means removing some of the lips that give it structural integrity.
Basically i cut out a bit too much from the sides of the tunnel meaning that I can’t screw the cover plate higher up easing the squeeze. So I’ll take the easy option and screw the cover plate on the top only and fix it in with seam sealer which will allow it some space. Tried the tunnel cover on and this seams to work.👍
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Perfect, thanks.
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32 minutes ago, Stratton Jimmer said:
The PO of my GT6 created his own "inspection" hole. A large, roughly hewn chunk of the cover was absent. I was given a new fibreglass cover with the car so no real complaint but I then found a suitable piece of plastic (from a 15 litre fence paint pot), tidied up the hole and covered it with the tougher plastic which is bolted into place using tiny BA bolts. It was supposed to be a temporary fix until I fitted the new cover but it has proven to be so effective that it is still in place. This car currently has no dash support / radio bracket fitted although I do have one.
I guess it would be difficult to access if the support was installed without cutting a flap in the carpet?
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1 hour ago, Dick Twitchen said:
Rich,
I've gone down the inspection plate route, and go down the groaning route when I have to remove the tunnel. The drawback I think I can see with your idea is that you have to remove the carpet to get the leeway required to get the cover over the gearlever. This would then require the H support to be removed anyway.
Dick
But I could cut the carpet and hide the join behind the radio /dash support. I could even glue the carpet on the gear stick end. So long as the join is inside the mount, all I would need to do is loosen it at the bottom and slide it out slightly and over the gearstick.
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Thanks both. Yes Johnny, you’re right, it does interfere with the housing without the washers 👍
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Between the reverse stop plate and bolt, is there an optimum gap between the range quoted in the pic. please? ie if I made the gap the median .030” is that the best bet? Or is smaller better? 😬
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As I’m retro fitting o/d to my gt6, and reading some of the potential issues over time that could necessitate the nightmare removal of the gearbox cover, like a Speedo drive failure, I’m wondering if anybody has ever considered the radical step of slicing the cover in two such that the back half can be removed without messing with the dash support / radio bracket / front of the cover etc?
Obviously the two halves would have to be held together but the joint could be under the radio bracket which runs from top to bottom of course.
Just a thought. I know some have created inspection holes with covers.
Many thanks
Rich
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Hi all
Before I create any extra hassle for myself(!), anyone know which way round this new rear mounting bracket goes please? I see it has shims (washers) welded on one side as photos!
Also do I need to fit the bracket on the chassis plate before or after I drop in the gearbox?
Many thanks for any advice
Rich
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11 minutes ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
I have learnt a new word - ‘ Solomon ‘
Glad I could help 😉
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For everyone’s interest, here’s the consequence of a shorted wire.
I’m taking the tape insulation of the length of the shorted wire, checking the other wires and replacing the damaged wire. What a hassle
The damage in the pic was hidden from view till I took it out, in fact it was face down on the bulkhead and the car was driving fine. There are a few similar damaged sections. Scary.
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Thanks Wagger. Yes, ‘standard’ 17amp wire is a lot thinner than 3mm. I actually got the wire size from auto sparks uk who provided the loom in the first place and very good. I’m actually replacing it with 27amp cable which has a silimar cross section as I couldn’t wait for a delivery from auto sparks
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It’s 17amp, 28 strand. 👍
2 or ideally 3mm PVC cable
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1
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I notice the pipe inside the new washer water bottle on my GT6 has gone kind of slimy quite quickly like it can’t deal with the antifreeze. Anybody else notice this and is there an alternative type of pipe that won’t go funny? I notice that the windscreen washer pipe (the thin stuff is marked as nylon.
Also is this nylon pipe suitable to use as the choke pipe between carbs. I seem to remember that I read somewhere that it is recommended.
Many thanks
Rich
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Does anyone know the size (capacity?) of the unfused brown power cable between the Solomon’s and the ignition switch please? Its thicker than most of the other cables as I presume it powers most circuits. It look bigger than the 17amp cable I have sitting around.
i want to install a new cable as mine got accidentally melted…
many thanks
Rich
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Ok, so I first tried bending the activator arm straight. Still not enough.
Next I tried reaming the mounting holes as much as the bracket could move inwards. Still not enough so I had to bend the bracket. I hate it when z shape brackets aren’t parallel on the 2 vertical face so managed to bend the centre slopey bit more then the upper section straight again. SUCCESS!
So it seems that even the quality Canley bracket needed adjustment.
I did notice that the older switch activation ball had to be pushed in further on the old switch.
To anybody having a similar issue, using a blow torch to heat the activator arm and bracket made light work of the bending although I had to do a bit of a Heath Robinson to be able to bend the bracket because of the awkward shape.
Thanks all for the good advice, much appreciated.
Rich
Gearbox noises
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Thanks Jonny. I REALLY hope not but sounds feasible. Let’s see what others think 😩