rulloyd
-
Posts
318 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by rulloyd
-
-
Hi all. I wonder if anyone can explain this please.
if I leave my GT6 for a few weeks unused, I usually prime the fuel pump before starting. After quite a lot of pumps I can eventually feel fuel reaching the pump and then hear fuel ‘filling’ the carbs fuel chambers.
However, the other day I was in a hurry and figured I would rely on my newish high torque starter (really good btw). Nothing. Turned over fine but would not fire, not even an attempt.
Got out, manually primed the pump felt it picking up fuel then filling the carbs. As if the pump had not been pumping at all. Presto, car started and runs fine from then on!
what could be happening?
Any advice much appreciated.
Rich
-
I wonder if it could be coming from the spindle? Seems a bit looser than I recall when I rebuilt them and there is definitely liquid around the holes that the spindle protrudes from. Looks oily and smells oily but it must be petrol surely unless from the dashpots? Confused 🤔
-
And a couple more pics. The gunk seems to be around the height of the spindle both sides. There’s no evidence of leaks anywhere except on the carbs.
-
Interesting that in this pic you can see that the residue is front half of the carb only along the Venturi (is this the right word??!!)
-
Rocker cover no leaks 👍
-
By the way, it’s the same on both carbs.
-
28 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
i would go along with its been flooding at some time
pete
Thanks Pete. What would you expect would cause flooding? At one stage there was quite a lot of fuel dripping filter side but I thought it had cleared. Seems pretty severe considering the joint should be leak proof. Why would it seem oily?
many thanks
Rich
-
Hi all. Once more back to the TSSC oracle….
Following restoration of my GT6, I have yet to properly fettle my engine which is still in run in phase. The engine was properly reconditioned and I refurbed the carbs & fuel pump myself. I did set the carb floats height according to the W/shop manual.
I noticed that the carb to manifold gaskets were looking a little oily on top (pic 1) which led me to look closer and underneath the gasket area is very oily (oily gunge). Seems to be worse towards the front. Pics 2 & 3. Wondering what this could be?
Possibly related. When I first started the engine after rebuild, quite a lot of fuel washed out of the air intake side of the carb. I also had a weird problem once after I parked up for 5 mins after a short run and the engine wouldn’t start (there’s a thread on this). Now I wonder if it flooded.
I haven’t taken the air filters off to take a look yet.
As ever, all advice appreciated.
Rich
-
Classical dash are excellent and the suppliers to most of the usual suspects. Much cheaper direct. 👍
-
Thanks Chris. My guess is that most body shops would be reluctant to finish somebody else’s paintwork for fear of rubbing through to primer if the job hasn’t been done properly. But I see there is a classic car restoration specialist fairly local, with very good reviews that I will try.
My car has been mainly flatted and polished and looks great but there are a few areas that let it down (it was not professionally painted but is a very good job). I’m too much of a perfectionist…,
Thanks for all advice all.
-
55 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
ratchet head torque spanners in Aldi this week at £19
Pete
None showing online?
-
I’m sure this will have been discussed before at length of course…. 😝
-
I think we all know that generally the quality of parts from all of the main suppliers is quite poor, as parts are bought in from the far east - the only source. Apparently driven by yours and my desire for low prices (hard to believe - I would certainly pay more).
There are some suppliers like Chic Doig and a few others who seem to have limited stocks of better quality parts. Who else?
Rich
-
Great, thanks John
-
Thanks both. But Kevin - where do TSSC get parts from? I suspect the same place as Moss, Rimmers and Paddocks - mainly China! I know there are some places who still have access to higher quality parts.
It’s a pity that the club don’t source from specialist sources only? I’m sure most of us would be happy to pay more for quality. Or do they?
Rich
-
I’d like to refurbish the Speedo and Rev counter on my GT6 I don’t want to do it myself.
Anybody recommend someone good please?
Many thanks
Rich
-
Anyone recommend somewhere go buy ignition components where I won’t get cheap Chinese rubbish please? Dizzy cap, rotor etc?
thank you
Rich
-
Hi all
Following the restoration of my GT6, the paintwork on my car is mostly great but it wasn’t done by a professional and there are some rough patches / couple of drips that i’d ideally really like cleaned up.
Are there specialists who take on this kind of thing? I really don’t want to do it myself.
If there are, it would be best if they are in the North West as I’m on the Wirral 😉
thanks for any advice!
Rich
-
8 hours ago, PeteH said:
Ford, ran a start system, which basically used a 6volt coil on 12volt systems, protection for the coil during running was by a Ballast resister, by passed by feeding the coil 12v via the starter during cranking. This meant at the point of lowest voltage during starting the spark was not deteriorated. Later they changed the resister for a resistive wire, which was often incorporated in the loom. (and which led some to assume it was a 12v Coil) The wire from the start solenoid was not separately switched, as normally only live when cranking. If said, solenoid, wire failed as little as 4volts could be getting to the coil which would result in a massively degraded spark and difficult (to say the least) ability to start!. A battery which was already low would exacerbate this phenomenon. Food for thought?.
Pete
Thanks Pete, I’m still thinking!
-
12 hours ago, Mark B said:
Don't know if you a are using an original live lead from the battery to the solinoid, seen two types one clearly a larger diameter than the other. Only after occassional problems spinning over, I paired back the insulation on four original leads, and found they all had badly corroded along the length, covered in green corrosion. Replacd with new cable, problem solved.
I have problems starting my Gt6 from cold, if unused for a couple of weeks, everything replaced and adjusted I've put it down to a tired worn engine. A little squirt of easy start always works, and saves caning the battery. Maybe worth carrying a can for emergencies.
Hi Mark, my engine normally fires immediately. Cables are good 👍
-
12 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
it runs and then stops .........wait a while kick the tyres have a snooze and it starts
has all the hallmarks of the coil having reversed polarity 12v
make sure the dizzy trigger is on the neg - and the ballast /ign feed is on the Pos + ( on neg earth cars) opposite on pos earth cars)
this has caused many a involuntary stop over the years its often the case
Pete
Hi Pete. It runs fine and doesn’t stop till I turn it off! This is a one off instant after I parked up. Is this then likely?
Rich
-
13 hours ago, thescrapman said:
The Piranhas / Newtronics seem to get dry joints on the pcb, also the big transistor plays up.
I run 4 of them, 2 I purchased as "fully working" from Ebay and were nothing of the sort.
The investigation revealed the dry joints, and swapping bits from a good one proved the transistor.
All have been running 20+ years now without any further issue.
Thanks Scrapman. But other than this one non start it’s running fine?
-
13 hours ago, Stratton Jimmer said:
It's worth mentioning that if your battery is struggling, any attempt to use the starter motor will sap its charge very quickly. Electricity likes to use the path of least resistance and hence you may not get the necesssary 12 volts at the ignition system. This is a common fault with Japanese motorcycles - starter motor runs well enough but no ignition.
Hi Jimmer. That’s an interesting one and I’ve not heard of that. That’s a possibility but how comes cars Do start on low power occasionally if they turn over and over before firing?
-
13 hours ago, NonMember said:
I'd say the most likely candidate is the electronic ignition pickup - sensitive electronics that might well have been hotter just at that moment than normal. Next candidate would be the coil. If you had waxstat carbs, as Mathew said, they would also be a suspect. Or possibly a weak fuel pump, which might have vapour-locked then drawn liquid fuel back in as it cooled.
Ok but it’s not happened before? (Where’ve I heard that…)
Fuel not pumping
in Fuel System
Posted
I fitted a repair kit to the pump only last year btw.