[Oil on rear engine plate]

Yes the o/d gearbox is a recon. 👍

[O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type]

1 hour ago, johny said:

Must admit looks quite different from the original😩

Yes, looks quite different.  Are you sure that’s the right one?I saw this one on eBay.  But I see it’s now ‘out of stock’. 😩😩😩

[O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type]

55 minutes ago, DanMi said:

or is it that the switch is too short?

Possibly but the actual bracket doesn’t look angled enough.  I don’t know why the nut is so thick though.  The ball only just makes it past the nut!  There’s a packing washer that comes with the switch.  Certainly couldn’t use that!

[O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type]

1 hour ago, johny said:

Is the switch held too high? How well does the operator line up with it when youre in third/forth gear?

It doesn’t touch in 3rd or 4th.  It has a bit of movement but still not touching.  I bought my box from Tony LD and he did mention that he was waiting for rimmers to correct a rubbish component.  It was probably the bracket in hindsight. 😖

[Oil on rear engine plate]

Hi Jonny.  Thank you, I can’t smell it but it probably because a poor sense of smell, so I can’t tell.  There is some residue around the main shaft so I’ll probably cross my fingers that you’re right.  🤞

[Oil on rear engine plate]

Incidentally, there was a small leak from the gearbox drain which looked like it had dribbled towards the bell housing.

[Oil on rear engine plate]

Hello.  I’m in the process of fitting O/D to my GT6.  The engine has probably done around 600 miles only since professional rebuild.

when I took the gear box out I noticed oil on the engine plate following the line of the bottom half of the bell housing as can be seen in the pic.  on the other side it runs as high as the starter motor.  The bell housing has a small amount of residue at the bottom, pic 2.

Could this be a problem?  Any advice appreciated. 
 

Many thanks

Rich

 

 

[O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type]

Has anybody else found that the Rimmers re manufactured part doesn’t fit?  Bolts on ok but when fitted, the switch doesn’t reach the  striker arm 😖

I could bend it possibly, but @ £30 I don’t want to risk breaking it.

its not as bad as pic 1.  After I had bolted it down, it’s near but still not near enough.

I’m in the process of a o/d conversion.

many thanks

Rich

[Steering rack spline]

Thanks all.  Of course, I remember now.  Pretty sure I used the right bolt but I probably should check.  No problems with steering, just noticed that a lot of spline showing. 👍
 

 

[Steering rack spline]

Hi all

For my GT6, is it usual to have as much of the spline showing between the rack snd the column, as pic?  I fitted it but I can’t recall how much was showing previously!

Many thanks for any advice

Rich

[Fuel coming out of air intake - GT6]

Thanks both, I’ll do that.   The choke is side mounted but the connecting pipe is above the choke casting. See pic.

[Fuel coming out of air intake - GT6]

Hi all

For Twin Strombergs, can anybody tell me if it's normal for fuel to exit from the air intake side of the carb if stopping the engine whilst on choke / engine not up to working temp.  I've heard that fuel collects in the manifold / throttle side of the carb in this scenario but on my car it seems to build up on the throttle side of the barrel then overflow via the air intake side.  It's probably only a teaspoon of fuel. 

I get the same affect if I prime the engine via the pump, choke on, engine off.

Thanks for any advice.

Rich

 

[HT leads touching bonnet]

👍👍👍

[HT leads touching bonnet]

Ok thanks.  It’s something I recall from teenage years that stuck with me.  Minor shocks from the ht leads.  Do I have that wrong then?  I haven’t touched a running HT lead in 40 years for that reason!!!!  D’oh!!!!!!!

[HT leads touching bonnet]

In my ignorance, I have always wondered if it’s ok that the HT leads touch the bonnet, as they do on my GT6?  Surely they are earthing in some way, given you get a mild shock if you touch them directly?

just wondering?

many thanks

Rich

 

[Fuel not pumping]

Some great advice as always.  Thanks all 👍

[Fuel not pumping]

5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

the answer is to drive or start up daily   like they used to be used as an every day car in its hey day it never showed as a problem

Pete

My dream!

[Exhaust manifold aesthetic paints & coverings]

Hi all.  I’m sure this will have been covered to death before so apologies.

When I restored my GT6 I used a VHT paint on the exhaust manifold.  Looked great for 5 minutes but very quickly the paint peeled off.

Bearing in mind I’m only interested in aesthetics, has anybody found the perfect cost effective solution that lasts? I looked into professional ceramic coating but very expensive.

Obviously preparation is half the battle.  I’m assuming blasting first is the way to go.

POR-15 seems popular.  https://www.holden.co.uk/p/por_15_high_temperature_manifold_gray?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIotCvzJ7v-gIVEu7tCh2BywBbEAQYCyABEgK5cvD_BwE

I’d prefer silver or grey (not barbecue black!)

many thanks

Rich

[Check your Manifold]

1 hour ago, JohnD said:

For a good appearance, excellent.  To keep heat in the exhaust gases, rubbish!

May be useful in F1, but not for a road car.   Consider: the ceramic tiles on the Space Shuttle, that protected it from a similar thermal gradient as in and out of the manifold.neededbto be six inches thick.  fraction of a millimeter of ceramic won't keep your engine compartment cool.

Anyway, with an engine less than 40% efficient, the rest of the energy from fuel  comes out as heat through the radiator.

John

Fortunately is looking nice I’m more interested in!  But expensive.  
I’ll start a new thread on manifold paint although I guess it’s been talked to death before.

[Check your Manifold]

Im sure this will have come up often but what’s the view on ceramic coating? 😬

Rich

[Fuel not pumping]

Got it thanks.  My main surprise was only that despite turning the engine over for what seemed like an endless time, I still had to use the hand lever a lot, just as if I hadn’t turned the engine at all.  Even with the high torque starter and bearing in mind it was only 2 weeks since I last started her up.  I thought maybe the fuel pump may be sticking, released by the hand pump action or something.  
 

But it sounds like my ‘endless’ engine spinning was probably a lot shorter than it felt.

Thanks for all the advice. 🙂

 

[Fuel not pumping]

Thanks all.

[Fuel not pumping]

A one way valve is probably a good idea.  I also have a fuel filter just ahead of the pump.  Better still, I need to drive it more!!

[Fuel not pumping]

3 minutes ago, NonMember said:

How long did you crank for? As Doug says, it can take a minute or so to get the pump filled and the carb floats up to a worthwhile level when relying on the relatively short stroke of the cam drive at cranking speeds. Your manual priming lever draws a lot more fuel per stroke than the engine does, which makes sense when you remember that the engine (once running) is pulling tens of strokes per second, against your manual one per few seconds.

The other issue (which my GT6 has) is that any defect in the pump (mine has a poor thread on the top cover bolt so doesn't seal too well when dry) will adversely affect the short cam-driven strokes much more than the long manual prime.

Ah ha.  Maybe it turned it over for a shorter period than I imagined!   I didn’t realise that manually pumps more fuel.    Thanks both, that’s probably it 🙂

[Fuel not pumping]

Hi Doug.  Yes, I realise it’s drain back but in this case, I turned it over using the starter for at least a minute and nothing.  The pump must have been racing much faster than me hand priming it.  When I did hand prime it, it was the same as if I was starting from scratch!  Weird!