rulloyd
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Posts posted by rulloyd
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Managed to get one of these switches 2 speed with the electrical connectors instead of water nipples. Not sure what it comes off but a direct replacement & works a treat.
Connections exactly the same unlike the earlier spitfire one I bought. It’s not in my GT6 parts manual and I’ve seen a GT6 non roto has bellows. Pretty sure it’s not an aftermarket. -
Anybody else noticed that the filter (which seems to incorporate a valve) in new new Tudor bottles is too tough for the bellows or even a small pump? Wondering if I have duff one. Fine when I take it off.
Rich
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Rivets. Near impossible to fit a nut and bolt 👍
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31 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
That's why I like the entire 20v range. I have several tools that I infrequently use so just take the battery off one of the drills or out of the trickle charger. I always have one somewhere or on something that I can use on the tyre blower upper, inflatoriser, tree pruner destructoriser or the jigsaw/finger shortener. I'm sure that there is something else as well. The tyre inflator is brilliant. Set the pressure needed, attach to tyre, set it going and it switches off at the required pressure. Not on commission and don't work there, but with the higher end ages of the forum members all labour saving items at a decent price are welcome. Just having coffee before I get out the heavy duty hammer action 20v drill (that's the othe bit of kit), to repair the shed door frame.
Good point. Are the batteries compatible with Aldi tools? Or is that too much to ask!!
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£59.99 btw
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
What's the price? I've got a good air wrench but the compressor makes a lot of racket and disturbs the peace... so could be talked into one.
https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/car-care/ultimate-speed-20v-cordless-vehicle-impact-wrench/p41262
I’d love one of those but sadly, infrequent use leads to ruined batteries. I have to buy everything mains power.
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Hi Paul. Looked into it yesterday. Firstly I noticed the high beam flash cable on the switch was hanging by a thread with wire exposed so I guessed it was that and resoldered connection. But then I found the flash was instead working the interior light 🤪😀
Then I noticed that one of the cables close to the switch was worn through to the wire. The switch had had some dodgy soldering before so best to change the switch and cable. As it happens I have a spare so planning to do that today. 👍
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Hopefully I’ll check it over at the weekend. Going forwards is great!
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7 minutes ago, johny said:
Differential rubber mounts either loose or worn?
Thanks Johny. Would that happen just in reverse?
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Thanks Nick. No O/D. New mounts.
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Thanks Colin. Yes, headlights going off then on again. I didn't notice if the dashboard went out but I think I smelt the fearsome smell of hot plastic momentarily.... I could have imagined that!
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Fresh from it's restoration, my car is driving very well with no vibration, but I notice that in reverse, it is hard to move without what feels like the prop shaft (but I have no idea) 'juddering'. It's quite bad, a bit like the problem you sometimes get with a clutch when pulling away in 1st gear (when something is wrong I mean!)
As I say it feels like the drive train somewhere, certainly not Engine.
I vaguely remember that it was doing this before I took it off the road 20 years ago. Prop, gearbox, diff are untouched in the restoration. Everything else new (inc clutch & rotoflex of course)
Hoping someone may recognise the fault?
Thank you!
Rich
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Hi all
My car now 99.9 % finished. Took it out in the dark yesterday. Noticed when I turned hard corners the lights flashed off and on, sounding like a brief short. This happened multiple times and I had visions of fires....
GT6 Mk2 I guess that can only be to do with the indicators on the steering column?
Thank you
Rich
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Looking at the k&n website where they give the dimensions of their filters it looks like it’s an E-3211. “No vehicle applications”. !!!!
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Yes, £80 a filter..... lucky mine were a present. But if somebody wants this filter @ half price then win win!
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45 minutes ago, thescrapman said:
Are the calipers repro ones or recon genuine ones?
If repro and 18 months old they will be the problem.
Repro. If all else fails I’ll get an old set reconditioned. Expensive mistake possibly.
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
question did you disconnect the handbrake cable when you locked them up
sorry to repeat but any cable tension holds the shoes open and youre making shoe contact but not bottoming the shoe on the wheel cylinder
so there is a gap and your MCyl drops as the wheel cyl closes the gap to the shoes hence 2nd pump gives a firm pedal
walk away the gap returns and down goes the 1st pedal pump
Pete
Hi Pete. Sorry you had to repeat yourself. You assumed correctly that I did not disconnect the handbrake. It’s the 1st thing I do when I get the car back 👍
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27 minutes ago, johny said:
A 3/4" MC could be the answer as I believe thats what Triumph fitted to the last of the GT6 which had servos as standard....
Hi Johny. Where did you get yours?
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All brake components including pipes and unions are all brand new with the exception of the servo which I have refurbed. The guy doing the mot who is very triumph experienced first thought was incompatibility between the new callipers and the new (but old style) mc. He reckons the callipers may be greater capacity. But I left it with him to look at.
The pistons in the callipers (which are probably 18 months old) are not visually retracting at all but they are working so I don’t think it’s the piston problem. Nor does the fluid in the mc appear to go up or down when applying the brakes which I assume is right. I did physically push the pistons in and out numerous times and they were moving ok.
I adjusted the rear brakes up tight (no self adjusters). Made no difference.
I checked the unions on the servo. All tight.
hub end float good.
thanks for all the suggestions.
I’ll probably try bypassing the servo. Then I may try reverting to old callipers. Or I could try a bigger capacity mc I guess.
Drove it to the mot this morning. Car is pretty much finished after complete restoration, even replaced chassis. Had the biggest smile on my face 😁😁😁 (sadly had the rozzers driving behind me all the way😩😩)
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11 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
621773 are correct, the later ones 631773 are slightly longer and require trimming to suit the earlier door locks. The Paddock versions are correct for the GT6 Mk2.
That plastic deadlock type is new to me, no idea if they fit or not.
Thanks Colin. Rimmers staff not aware of that. Say no more. 🙄🙄🙄
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4 hours ago, johny said:
Course I forgot about a servo and one could give the symptoms youve described. A test to discount the brakes themselves is to clamp their hoses - if with all 4 closed off theres still a problem it must be with the MC/servo. Then either bypassing the servo or testing the MC as Pete has described (could be done on the car?) would further narrow it down...
The flexible pipes are the ss braided variety. Presume these can’t be clamped?
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Cool, thanks for this 👍
Washer bottle filter/valve
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Is it a valve or a filter or both? Why does it need a valve?
Struggling to find something. If anybody can point me at a suitable aquarium jobby that would be great!!
Thank you
Rich