rulloyd
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Posts posted by rulloyd
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I spoke to Rimmers. I think it’s just a typo in their catalogue.
I’ll probably buy the normal key variety with the securing nut inside as the last locks I bought with the clip were useless.
Bloody expensive though 😩😩
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Thanks for all the advice. I’ll report back when I try all this! 👍
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Can anybody remind me of the location of the tailgate courtesy switch on my GT6 please? I seem to recall one around the hatch lateral spring somewhere but brilliantly it’s now covered by a new headlining so I can’t tell but I really should connect it!
No clue in the workshop manual or parts manual
Much appreciated
Rich
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Sorry for the flood of questions. Last stages of restoration.
I notice Rimmers have a slightly different part number for the door locks on a GT6 from the parts manual and other suppliers. Parts Manual = 621773 Rimmers 631773. There's also a large price differential between Rimmers and paddocks for the 2 different part numbers - much more so than the normal expectation.
Anyone know if there's a difference? Or if there is a higher quality lock available anywhere? Not in terms of security, just build. Do the ones with a nut rather than the rubbish clip look reasonably unobtrusive?
I had a midget once where somebody had fitted locks where you have the cone shaped key, (pic follows). Really good. Anyone know if these can be adapted for the GT6? The application lists various MGs and TR5 - 6.
Many thanks
Rich
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Thanks Johny. Confident it's not the first option as I have checked this already. I wonder if the Master cylinder is faulty even though it's brand new. I'll try that test.
Could it be a problem with the servo hydraulics? ( I have a Powerstop servo which I also rebuilt, new seals). Tempted to bypass to make sure. No leaks at all.
Thank you
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Ok I’ll give it a go 👍
Thank you!
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So every component of my brake system is now new (single circuit GT6).
I have bled them over and over again but if I leave the pedal for a minute it softens until I pump it once. Then it works well, but if I leave it a minute it softens again.
Front callipers (new) are working fine. I have pushed the pistons in and out multiple times and they don’t stick on or off at all.
Out of ideas. Anyone??
All after market parts of course.
many thanks
Rich
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Thank you. Very timely as I am planning to do this job tomorrow 😉
Must admit though struggling to understand how adding or removing shims from the front or rear bracket changes the angle off vertical looking from the elevation in the diagram? Surely this would only have the effect of turning in or out the suspension when looking from the front, if you know what I mean...??
I did look in the workshop manual!
My last job on full restoration. MOT booked Thursday - my Birthday. Yaaaay ! 👍👍👍👍
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I'm sure this has come up before but do I mount the filter vertically or horizontally (or does it matter). If vertically, engine side up is OK I presume?
And recommended just ahead of the pump?
Thank you!
Rich
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19 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
looking like a horse's handbrake, but it was too rigid...
😂😂😂😂
a problem which at my age, I would be glad to have. 😂😂😂😂
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Quick follow up. The renu option looks good but £400. Local specialist repairer could weld steel on top - not sure I like that.
Turned out dependable Chic Doug had 4 x 2nd hand on the shelf! Picked me the best one, £150. Result! Happy with that.
Thanks for all the advice - once this is done Finished car is within touching distance! 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
By the way, Demon tweeks do suitable filler hose 51mm / 2” neck (original no longer available). https://www.demon-tweeks.com/mocal-straight-fuel-filler-neck-hose-245473/?sku=MOCNH38NR/10/AKN&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wplaptppa&istBid=t&gclid=Cj0KCQiApY6BBhCsARIsAOI_GjZSCocgh0SsF5YFS-exZdMqBiewdEfyk4iMB_fFjOQJJB3kVl-eeUQaAhIwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Thanks all. Some good ideas there that I will followup.
Much appreciated
Rich
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Hi all. The latest hurdle as My car nears completion...
The fuel tank has started leaking. After investigation I see that a section of the tank bottom is badly corroded on the outside because the felt fitted to the bottom of the tank had previously spent a long time wet I’m guessing.
There are numerous small holes and some tiny but not pin holes. See pic.
Does anybody know where I might find a steel replacement please? The only ones I can find are the £500 Ali jobs 😩😩
Or has anybody got good experience of a repair in a similar situation?
all advice appreciated
many thanks
Rich
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On 02/02/2021 at 17:41, Colin Lindsay said:
Leacys are also selling them for £34, thats with VAT added already
http://www.leacyclassics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=155495&cat=
Out of stock with no plans to get any in. Apparently they get them from Rimmer! (Also out of stock with no plans....). Paddocks & moss the same. Moss price is showing as £83.60 for the same switch!!
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13 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
Just seen a 2 speed wiper switch WITH connections for a elect water pump on ebay item 353374949502 priced a 35 quid.
Bloody hell - snooze you lose! It’s gone as far as I can see.
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Now I’ve checked (according to Rimmers on-line pages if that can be trusted)
GT Mk 2 & 3, spit IV & 1500 all the same part numbers for switches and motors
GT MK 1 had the early motor but is not the same one listed for Spit 1, 2 ,3
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Hi Peter. The GT mk2 has the same colour wires in the same places as the Spit 1500 on the switch - Except there are two green on the GT (on the same switch terminal). I mention this in an earlier post. My conclusion from looking at wiring diagrams was the same as yours. 👍
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Thanks for that Peter. In theory it should be fine but I bought one of these already and it didn’t work. I’m not sure if it was broken or the spit switch is not compatible with the GT6 mk2. Be interested to know if the GT6 mk3 had the same switch as the 1500 spit?
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12 hours ago, aggie said:
Everyone's cheaper than Newton but it's their kit that everyone else sells ! Rimmers, Paddocks, et al.
Indeed. If you are thinking of using Newton DON’T buy direct from Newton. All the major suppliers use them and are much cheaper.
For my GT6 I actually had covers made in Leather by a local upholsterer, who did a great job (as cheap as vinyl covers). We used Newton foams and found them to be overly padded compared to the original - which you may expect - but he struggled to make them fit the covers which he had made using the originals as templates.
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That’s much cheaper than anywhere else - but still out of stock like everywhere else. I wonder if they are actually still manufactured.
I’ll call leacys tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help.
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Hi Colin. Yes, it’s the same as the Auto Electrical Spares switch in your post at the top of this thread.
Easy option - I’ll order one of them. 👍
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Did the mk3 Gt6 use the same spit switch I wonder? I don’t have my parts manual handy. The spit switch in the pic is from a 1500. Mine is a Mk2 GT6
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Threaded section looks to be the same length; it's the thickness that differs, but the thinner Spit version can be bulked out to fit a larger hole by using a rubber grommet.
Can't think of why, unless the terminals are in a different order - are they marked in any way, or can you test them?
I have a pic of the spit unit wired and it appears to be the same except the GT6 has a double green into one terminal. From a quick scan of wiring diagrams, I think the GT 2nd green wire feeds the motor where on a Spit the same connection on the motor travels directly from a different power source. So I don’t think that would make any difference.
top pic GT, bottom spit
Gt6 tailgate courtesy light
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Perfect, thanks!