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rulloyd

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Everything posted by rulloyd

  1. Thanks Gav, Colin. I'm investigating all options! Yes, been on the tex site thanks. All too short 😞 I didn't realise that my original is actually quite an expensive design (I guess) having two joints. It's a shame not to have it rechromed but from previous experience it would be at least £100 and would take a couple of months. Welding up one of the holes may be the best option as I can do that quickly and cheaply. Argggh...
  2. Thanks Pete. I did look at that previously - but again, slightly too short to hide both holes.
  3. Long shot but I'm wondering if by any chance anyone has this particular make/model door mirror sitting around looking for a good home?? Unfortunately I realised after the door was sprayed (complete with fixing holes) that this particular mirror has a very long plinth with holes beyond the width of all (that I can find) similar bases available today. I think it's a tex (magnatex) product. The Plinth is 121mm long and the hole centres about 103mm. Of course the exact model is not available anymore and the metal on mine is shot. It must have been an aftermarket fitting and there is no model number on it. Next option is to fill at least one of the holes and respray 😞 Than you Rich
  4. Thanks for the advice all. I will follow up all routes and let you know. 😉 Rich
  5. Anyone know where I can obtain 2 of these please? Also suitable for Spit Mk1 - 3 I assume, also same switch for boot I believe Many thanks Rich
  6. Out of interest, I see the internal diameter of the Gates Barricade R9 hose (from Moss or TSSC) is 6.4mm when 1/4 pipe is 6.35mm. Obviously it makes better sense for the rubber pipe to be smaller in diameter (Codan recommend .4mm). I realise the measurements are tiny but is it a good idea to use hose that is even fractionally larger than the pipe? Obviousy hose clips solve the issue but interested in any thoughts. Anyone any experience of the Moss or TSSC 1/4 & 5/16? Interested that they don't quote the Gates Barricade part number anywhere (which is 4219-5521 (1/4") and 4219-5522 (5/16") for the record) so I'm trusting it's the real thing?! (I'll call them to check). I'm talking non injection hose. Some good information here regarding R9 hose btw: http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/fuelhose.htm Thanks Rich
  7. Makes me wonder how many of the hoses on ebay that say they can, are actually rated to carry fuel. Dodgy ground.
  8. I checked with the supplier of the air hose in the link above whether it could carry fuel.. Seems you need to be careful which hose you choose :-( "We would not recommend it, this product isn't designed for fuel of any kind".
  9. Hi all I'm thinking of using nylon air pipe to carry fuel front to back, as an alternative to the steel pipe, like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-Nylon-Tubing-30-Metre-Coil-Pneumatic-Air-Pipe/110815841282?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225114%26meid%3D0d16ccaa54834d368defacc332011f3e%26pid%3D100276%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D122850372975%26itm%3D110815841282%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2060778%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2060778.c100276.m3476= Does anyone know how nylon pipe stands up to Ethanol please? Any views? Many thanks Rich
  10. Thanks for teh advice, much appreciated. Rich
  11. Hi all. Just checking. Reinstalling the T-piece and I can't remember if it had sealing washers on any of the treaded connections? None on it now. Can someone enlighten me please? Many thanks Rich
  12. A local spit owner contacted me about their car, a 1980 1500, in need of a new home. Having seen it, it's in a very poor state and I would say is well beyond economic restoration but has a low milage (30k) engine / drive train. Hard & soft top, some panels may be reusable but there is a lot of rot. Non O/D. It's a shame as it's been owned from new by the same lady for 40 years (21st Birthday present) Anybody interested? Located Wirral, Merseyside. Couple of hundred and it's yours. Must go as a complete package. Please message me. Thanks Rich
  13. Thanks all. Now I'm looking at alternatives as per the earlier thread.
  14. Adrian - Does it leak? I see the standard is 16mm bubble where as the smaller (like yours) is 8mm.
  15. Thanks for the suggestion Pete 😉
  16. Oh no. Don't tell me we are competing on ebay! Out of interest, why not buy a new one?
  17. Dumb question... Which way up does this tailgate seal go please? Thanks! Rich
  18. Hello I just rennovated by Carbs. Used a Sonic cleaner which was interesting! All the small zinc plated parts cleaned up well but inevitably they will now rust again. Anybody recommend a galvaniser or other ideas please? Many thanks Rich
  19. Will 175/70 fit 4.5 rims? If they do, is it a good idea anyway - probably right on teh limit. Do the 175's clear the bulkhead at full lock (tends to be the problem rather than the arches). I was getting scrub on the bulkhead even with 155's - but thats another (long) story, now concluded (I hope).😉 Why would I have heard that Mk2's benefit from 155's but Mk3's 175's? Obviously appreciate that there is no need to use full lock, but one small mistake and my shiny new pain is ruined. Thanks for all the advice. Rich
  20. Thanks all. Whats favoured, 155, 165 or 175. (I'm thinking the answer is personal choice). Do 175's or 165's catch the bulk head at full lock?
  21. I know ths has been done to death but I am still confused - apologies... I have standard 4.5J steel Rims. Original tyres 155R-80-13 I believe. Mk2 GT6 (rotoflex) What is a good sized tyre where there is no risk of scraping the bulkhead at full lock please? I think I understand that the 155's are no longer available? 175/70/13 seem to be the popular choice (but the bulkhead??) I did see a thread which recommended a different size for a Mk2 to a Mk3 but now I can't find it. Much appreciated. Rich
  22. Thanks all. I have bought the TSSC ones (which are now louvreless I believe!) Rich
  23. This has undoubtadly come up before (but my searching ability was unable to unearth anything, apologies). Does anyone have a view on the difference engine valances avalable. The ones I know about are: TSSC shop: Stainless steel, Powder coated. £65/pair (as per the Parts & accessories mag April 2020). Not showing online. TSSC shop: https://shop.tssc.org.uk/product/gt6-engine-valences-pair These ones have louvres? No idea what they are made from. £80/pair Rimmers: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-910045 One shown, £72 each. No idea what they are made from. (I wonder if this is the Newton product below) Newton Commercail: https://newtoncomm.co.uk/products/gt6-mk-1-2-3-right-hand-engine-valance-panel One shown here. Made fom Bitumen board £79 each I know some people make their own, but I don't have time for that at the moment (albeit a nice little project I'm sure) On the face of it the TSSC versions are half the price. Half as good??? Any experience / views appreciated. Probably sensible to buy the rad cowling also - from what I've read. Many thanks Rich
  24. I know quite a few people on here are familiar with Jademuttly's videos but in case you're not, thought I'd post a link to his youtube channel. A retired fabricator - and remarkably working from his single width garage at home, he is best known for his many prize winning Vitesse restorations over many years - and currently he's working on my GT6. These restoration videos are aimed at providing metalwork techniques, tips and tricks - and are really excellent. If you are thinking of restoring bodywork yourself or just interested, definately worth a browse! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCzpZXUiLDsEWOaW9DcN1Fg
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