DanMi
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Everything posted by DanMi
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when putting a gearbox back in I support the engine on a stout plank of wood under the sump, projecting backwards, then a second piece of wood of the right thickness that sits on the first under the backplate, this give support at the correct height as the bellhousing will rest on the wood and this makes aligning the box to the engine easier, particularly with the weight of overdrive. There are other ways but this works for me
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Spitfire Rear Cockpit - How to Cut Seat Belt Opening in Panel
DanMi replied to Neil Clark's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
The later cars had them factory fitted on the flatter part further forward on the near vertical section parallel to the outside of the car, so forward and down a bit -
Spitfire Rear Cockpit - How to Cut Seat Belt Opening in Panel
DanMi replied to Neil Clark's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
mine were never welded and they can easily be obtained from race car places eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173487968666?hash=item2864b0519a:g:IhoAAOSwO2lbfV2s as they are galvanised they aren't designed to be welded. Mine are a bit too far back and catch when you pull the rear panel forward to get at the roof. -
Spitfire Rear Cockpit - How to Cut Seat Belt Opening in Panel
DanMi replied to Neil Clark's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Yes the belt normally bolts to the inner edge of the wheel arch well inside the trim panel on all spitfires. The threaded plate on the arch was not factory fitted. something like this https://bridgeclassiccars.co.uk/fitting-new-3-point-seat-belts-to-our-triumph-spitfire/ -
was the panel gap really that good on the normal cars coming off the production line rather than the press cars?
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a 64 spit will be the domed ones. When my pushrods tubes were leaking the oil moved slowly down the flat part of the head and then off the back pooling on the back of the block pretty much exactly where a leak from the rocker feed in the head gasket would be but then the part of the casting on mine looks flatter than those pics so they may have changed the casting slightly
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the other possible oil source in that area (if an 1147) is the pushrod tubes
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yes the big 2 inch one is blocking the camshaft drilling so would leak oil. I can't recall that one being visible in situ though. If you have a mk2 spit engine with cam bearings it is actually 2 1/8 inch but none of the suppliers seemed aware of this I had to get it from a core plug supplier
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I use beal.org.uk for the standard setscrews nylocs normal nuts etc. Most of the special ones can be reused or purchased as needed (other hardware suppliers are available)
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have you checked that the fuel lines are clear from the tank, as a partial blockage can cause a lack of fuel when under power or a cracking fuel hose allowing air to be sucked in, rather than pulling petrol through
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actuall the original correct grade was not just 20/50 but a range as shown in the page from the 66 spitfire owners manual, 20w50 multigrade was probably not even available when the first version of our engines were built. It was the later recommendation so is what I would use today.
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I believe that the electrical connectors you have circled is the overdrive inhibitor switch, this allows the overdrive to only work in 3rd and 4th gear and should be wired in series with the overdrive switch.
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totally agree, the spitfire moved the sender to the housing somewhere in the MK2 run but earlier than my Aug 66 so probably at some point in 65
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Early cars did have the temperature sensor after the thermostat, which is not ideal I think the looking at the colour isn't accurate as they have been made over the years by various companies as replacements who will likely have used different colours.
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All the pipes that you have are nothing to do with air flow so would not be affected by a filter swap. The metal pipe is fuel, so essential. The rubber pipe with a T piece to the carbs is the crankcase breather, though that is not the mk3 setup, probably mk4 manifolds and carbs.
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I just used Ford Diamond white, easy to match and looks good. No one goes around with a perfect swatch comparing it to wheels
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the pipework allows the carbs to suck in denser cold air from in front of the radiator, rather than the thinner hot air from near the exhaust manifold
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you haven't said which vitesse if it is a 1600 these used the type 12 calipers so the pads would not fit without modification
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you have to remember that the newest roundtail was 10 years old when the last spitfire was built so it was really just an old banger
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the knob is available for 7.80 from Rimmers Ok for a TR4 but same symbol https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-704873 so you can get the symbol from there, you could also get the cable from them which could save postage. It would probably cost more to buy a scrap cable and get it posted. Not normally a fan of Rimmers but they do supply a good range. I am of course assuming that the symbol would swap over
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might be worth having a chat with mota-lita as the boss is still available today https://www.moto-lita.co.uk/bosses/b20-sc/, though mine is period and the horn push taken straight from the original 16 inch wheel without the 3 pronged thingy. They don't supply the push though
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that looks absolutely identical to my moto lita. The mota lita horn push won't fit but the standard Triumph one will with the origianl horn pencil the standard horn pencil. The only issue I can see is that the nut is too thick and why oh why has someone punched it! Plus it really looks period
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the other option though not a cheap one is the TR4 cable, looks identical but has a removeable knob and was fitted to MK1 spits 4019001 and the knob 704873 is also available https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200270 or here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391808864310?hash=item5b39a0d036:g:FkgAAOSwBkRaNivZ
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Oh and I have a set of wire wheels rotting in the garden, they look fantastic, but you can feel them flex when cornering and whatever I did there was always some play in the hub splines . Plus you have inner tubes almost certainly with tyres not designed for them. It now has 4.5J standard wheels from a Vitesse, but they where an optional extra at the time
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No 58 year old car is completely original, mine also has the later swing spring a mk4 OD gearbox and many new panels, but they are as original or easy to put back if required. The chassis is exactly the same now that it has the early bonnet mounts. I've also swapped the indicators and headlight stalks to be on the same side as a modern and wired as the later cars with a 2 position column switch, but all easily reversed if desired.
