DanMi

Ah so the extra complication may be the gearbox if it has a single rail, Oh the joys of non-standard cars done by the previous owner!

mk2 spit is the same as the mk1, no voltage regulator. I'm guessing it's late mk1 vitesse 1600 as he says the car has a vitesse dash so probably came with that, we need the tpm

a 110 mph speedo would either be spit mk1-2 or vitesse. If vitesse it may well be for the wrong diff ratio what is the turns per mile a number above right of the centre of the needle, should be 1248 for the 4.11 and 1182 for 3.89 if my memmory is working. My guess is that it is vitesse as it has the voltage regulator attached, early spit does not

I used https://www.classicsparesengineering.co.uk/classic-spares-services to repair my speedo a few years back, they did a good job at a fair price

It is always possible that the seal has been replaced with the non-venting version for the US market. I think they are identical except the vented version has a small hole in the rubber seal

You have height adjustable dampers simply turn the lower spring mounts until you get the height that yo want, though I agree those springs have the coils very tight together, adjusting the height will not affect this, you will need a c-spanner

easiest way is to use a standard trigger oil can, take the grease nipple out and squirt the oil in. I usually put and allen key under the top seal and put oil in until it runs out. There is zero need for the pressure from a grease gun except to open the grease nipple, unless they are already full of grease in which case they should be stripped and cleaned

the correct bearing for the 4 cyl is SKF 415441 and has a depth of 19.6 (other makes were also available but that is the NOS one that I have) but the ones supplied by the suppliers today are 16.4 See the other thread about fitting a single rail od box into a herald 1200. I believe they still supply the correct bearing in the 3 part kit but not if purchased separately

If it is out of the car it is very easy to assess, official figures are 4-8 thou but a serviceable but older engine will be more, but then if it is out of the car during a rebuild I would probably replace mains big ends and thrust washers and seals anyway as the hardest part is done (getting the engine out)

With the wheels there really is no rush, they look great on the standard steels anyway (at least in my opinion), so take your time or fall foul of the old adage buy in haste and then buy twice (sort of!) Is there any news on the head gasket leak? This is the most important issue.

your not looking at this stage to make an accurate measurement, just is the movement excessive, which if the thrusts have fallen out or are badly worn will be pretty obvious

In fact I would advise going to a few shows/meets and talking to people with the different wheels, doesn't really matter which mk to see if the 5.5 cause any issues with the body, it will drive just fine on the current steels for now

If going for wires which I wouldn't, I would go for the 5.5, not because of the width but because they are tubeless, wheras the 4.5 need inner tubes, for which modern tyres are not designed, though I can not guarantee that they won't cause clearance issues

Holy thread drift I'm going to have to disagree, stone age people thought their weapons were fantastic but I wouldn't suggest they went up against the modern British army with them! That is exactly the same as using outdated software, it simply does not have the ability to maintain security against the more advanced versions. As for cloud it is likely far more secure as they have the best security people and automated infrastructure, making it so PS I have been a Microsoft Certified Technical trainer and Amazon Web Services champion associate trainer for a long time. The weakest link in any IT security is generally the human, not having the correct knowledge.

a very simple non invasive test is to watch the front engine pulley with the engine running whilst someone presses and releases the clutch. If you can see significant for and aft motion that is bad if hardly perceptible then you can eliminate thrusts as a problem

I used steel seal on a tiny leak in the bottom of my radiator where it just touched the head of a bolt and had a tiny weep, that was about 10 years, a replacement engine and numerous flushes ago, still not leaking. I was dubious at the time and only left it in for a short time before flushing. I guess it will leak now the next time I start it

Yes it could, I threw one out as it was rough due to dry grease and continued to use the one from the clutch kit that was already fitted, though the cover wasn't smooth the bearing was fine. Unfortunately I have not found a way to clean and repack them. I would advise buying a 3 part clutch kit which will have the bearing though the plate will not work with the single rail box.

yes I did you are correct, brain had a slight issue there

4-8 thousandths of an inch is the correct service tolerance, but a worn engine will have a bit more and still be fine. If they fall out the crank grinds into the front main bearing cap and unless caught early will render the block scrap. It may be possible to braze the cap and repair ( I have had it done). I have never had the flywheel grate on the backplate but that would be possible A grating noise when clutch depressed could be a failed release bearing but isn't that new?

the biggest source of heat in the cabin is air leaking in from the engine compartment. The tunnel needs to be well sealed (generally they are not) and the rubber around the steering column, in good condition as well as any grommets etc. Making sure these are sealed will have far more effect than any insulation

That looks to me like the water has run down from above the drain point as you can see the brown stain line above and then going around both sides

yes completely normal, you can even make out the handbrake cable under the fibreboard. The dip in the bodywork is for the handbrake

The rear thrust is the most likely to wear, as the force on the thrust bearing is primarily when the clutch is engaged ie the clutch is pushing the crank forwards. The loading on the bearing is very low at other times, hence cars with auto gearboxes rarely have thrust bearing issues

It shouldn't be much difference as the thrust washers will be of the same or very close thickness and the tolerence is small 4-8 thou the problem occurs when the crank can move so when you press the clutch a lot of the movement is lost moving the crank forward, rather than operating the clutch, so long as the crank is held in place the clutch will work the arm will be tolerant of a little difference just not of for/aft crank movement

Those a hardtop attachments for a mk1/2 the 2 screws with plates for the rear deck, the black bits attach to the hardtop with the thin end in the top of the softop frame tube and the long bolts go up through the tube into the black bits, those on the right go through the screen frame header