Qu1ckn1ck

Hi Andrew and welcome.

The needles in the existing carbs are B5CF and the carbs are tagged 3432L+R which I believe are both correct for the later GT6 engine fitted. Other than trying to adjust the mixture we have made no mods or changes to the carbs but obviously in a 46 year life a previous owner may have done . The mixture appears to be too rich across the whole range. The car starts with almost no choke and even when hot after a run, the exhaust smells very strongly of petrol. If left to idle she will choke herself into stalling after 5 minutes or so.

That was my thinking Pete - I have already tried the needles in my old carbs.

Many thanks for the various comments and helpful suggestions. The existing carbs run very rich despite several attempts to lean the mixture, they even caused a comment about the petrol smell from a club member in the Raven car park recently. I was considering refurbishing the existing carbs but made an opportunistic purchase when the NOS US carbs appeared on ebay. I will probably try using them as they are, but if not happy with them, might cannibalise their critical parts into a rebuild onto the UK spec body castings. Following another opportunistic ebay purchase, I do have a Smiths emissions valve to carry out Dave's suggestion regarding running the breather into the inlet manifold.

I have just bought a pair of unused NOS carbs for my 1971 GT6 and looking for some advice before I fit them. They are USA/Swedish spec and of course have several differences from the UK spec ones that I currently have fitted. 1) The needles are different but my car seemed quite happy using the US needles and they are no problem to change, I already have a pair of correct new ones for my GT6. 2) The US carbs have chokes fitted to both carbs and apparently in the US a very expensive single knob/dual choke cable operates both chokes in tandem. Should I fit separate choke knobs and cable for each carb or would just choking one single carb be adequate for cold starting? 3) My existing crankcase emissions set up has the crankcase breather hose going direct from the rocker cover with a connection to each carb (see pics). My new carbs have no facility to accept crankcase emissions. Would it be OK for the crankcase breather hose and the brake servo hose to combine and share the centre tapping in the inlet manifold, either with or without a Smiths mushroom valve on the emissions side? Alternatively, could the emissions hose be connected to the back of the air cleaner box? 4) The US carbs appear to have an extra hole on the inlet manifold flange. Any idea what this is for and will there be a problem if they are covered by the gasket and spacer?

A mechanical speedo should have no "memory".

Thanks both.

Following a transmission overhaul to resolve leaks from the differential and the gearbox speedo drive and top plate, I found that my previously perfectly functioning overdrive failed to operate. Now a week or two and a hundred miles later the overdrive has suddenly decided to work again. Could the gearbox oil change we did at the same time have been the cause ? The oil was bought from the club shop.

Thanks Paul. Nick

Thanks John, not exactly my two-post but my cars have spent a large amount of time on there so I can probably claim squatters rights. Nick

... possibly not.

Probably the same Dove that I photographed at Weston last year.

Just a few of the many Triumphs at Old Warden today.

Did you re-bore before fitting the new pistons ? If not, there may have been a wear lip at the top of the bores sufficient to break the rings.

I have a similar problem with the hinged lockable cap on my GT6 MkIII. Despite renewing the top-hat seal it does not seat firmly in the nozzle when closed allowing petrol to slop out. Cannot understand why as the whole hinged cap assembly seems to be in good order. The price of a new one is astronomical too !

Just found that the extended studs supplied with the 3/4" spacer are too long and/or the threaded portions are too short for the nuts to clamp diff, spacer and spring together. Now need a 3/8 UNF die nut and a good hacksaw !

It will be a major milestone if the car ever reaches the A414 at the rate we are locating and fixing snags ! Nick

Many thanks for the offer, Paul, but the stub shafts are now stripped of bearings and seals. Just a little worried about quality of unmarked bearings I have bought, also the seals are nowhere near the quality of the 45 year old ones that we have removed. Just hope we don't have to repeat the job in a year or two because of quality issues.

Thanks Paul - I picked a pair of bearings up from James Paddock with no maker or bearing number shown so possible suspect quality.

Do you have the numbers for the SKF bearings, please ? Started out to replace the leaking seals and decided to play safe and do the bearings as well.

I hope so, Pete.

Finally freed the clutch today and got the GT6 round to Tony Solich who will now tackle the transmission faults from the leaking diff and gearbox to the sticking clutch. Despite finding that the NEW rear spring fitted is the six blade GT6 version, the car stands high at the rear and has minimal rear negative camber so I am taking JohnD and Pete's advice and fitting a 3/4" spacer and new studs between diff and spring. Target is to get the GT6 back on the road within two weeks with it's incontinence problems resolved.