Gary Flinn

Martyn The Header rail seal retainer is listed on the Rimmer's Site, Part Number 704418 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjzkeHD6LD_AhUoQUEAHffiBjAQFnoECBAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Frimmerbros.com%2FItem--i-704418&usg=AOvVaw00JjEuUdGJ5y5bpVVznxWV Gary

What about some of the prices listed, I'll take the two TR5's Please?😁

I picked up a copy of an old Motorsport Magazine on Sunday at Newark Autojumble, mainly because there is an advert showing my old TR5 For sale. There are some great old adverts in the magazine too, here's a few look at the prices of the Triumph Cars listed for sale! Gary

I always thought the vernier adjuster was for small adjustments only and should be adjusted to the middle setting? I'm not sure what Distributor the Mk3 Spit is fitted with, but here's a link regarding the Vernier adjustment on a 25D Lucas type fitted to a Morris Minor, 18 click is equivalent to 1 degree, with a maximum of 13 degree's adjustment in total using the vernier https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiA5M3Coa7_AhUbEcAKHbGlB2wQFnoECCQQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fboard.mmoc.org.uk%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D59263&usg=AOvVaw2kzQVgFxxorwtHUVWQFqe9 Regards Gary

The Triumph Design Engineers must have found a cold air supply into the Engine gives a slight increase in power? It is a known fact that on a cold wet day, engines will run better with the cold damp air being mixed with the Fuel. Gary

Hi again Martyn Here's a link to some useful tips from the Club Triumph Website https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj7is3VzaT_AhWMgVwKHfAPDWoQrAIoAHoECBwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.clubtriumph.co.uk%2Fforums%2Ftopic%2F1289-hood-fitting%2F&usg=AOvVaw0poTMQM-X-K67xrwph0JUd I've fitted a couple with varying degree's of success, its advisable to unfold the hood and lay it out in a warm room or in the sun first for a day or so. When fitting it's easier/better to do the work on a hot day as the Vinyl will be more supple and easier to stretch to remove creases Start by making sure your hood frame is in good condition and fits well with regards to the side windows (Even gaps all the way around of about 1" if remember correctly before the seals and retainers are fitted) I would advise getting new Aluminium Seal retainers (3 Pieces per side) and new 'J' Shaped rubber seals, a new seal for the front is advisable too. Start at the rear making sure the hood is central before making any holes and that it looks like it will fit the sides above the door windows correctly (I've seen hoods both too narrow and too wide in this area) if that's the case you have no chance of getting it to fit correctly Another pair of hands to Hold, stretch the fabric and assist is advisable, a good contact adhesive is a must too together with a rivet gun and 1/8" rivets will be needed for some of the poppers together with the correct size self tapers for some of the finishers and seal retaining channels. I also used some 3.5mm Countersunk type Switch/Socket screws/nuts/washers for some of the hood poppers There was an article in one of the TSSC Courier magazines a few years ago and Practical Classic magazine also did a feature on fitting one to a Herald they restored but this was 30+ years ago! You need to try and get the tension correct to remove as many creases as possible, getting the rear quarter light windows to fit crease free is very difficult to do. Here's a couple of photo's of what my Mohair hood looked like when fitted (Done by The Don Trimming Co. though in Brum) so I can't take any credit Good luck Gary PS - I've sent you a PM regarding the Hood Finisher you wanted

That's a good idea with the Brass Nuts, they should come off ok if you ever need to change the exhaust downpipe🙂 Gary

Listed on the Triumph Vitesse Facebook pages and not a scam Needs a bit of sorting by the sounds of it but a realistic price Note - This is not a genuine Park Royal Estate. Regards Gary

No Longer available from the usual suspects as I'm sure your aware. I did manage to pick up a N.O.S. White one off a guy on the Vitesse Facebook group, ok if your fitting a White hood I suppose? Regards

I can remember in the summer of 1979 going past the Canley site on a train and seeing lots of new Spitfires & Dolomites parked up. I did visit again in the late 90's to look at the Standard Triumph Monument adjacent to the Standard Triumph Working Men's club too. I wonder if the last Herald 13/60 Convertible survived🤔 Gary

Some great photo's and fascinating history on the long gone Canley Factory thanks to the Coventry Telegraph. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiHp5zskvz-AhVHdcAKHT4-CfoQFnoECA8QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.coventrytelegraph.net%2Fnews%2Fcoventry-news%2Ftriumph-rise-fall-iconic-coventry-15330637&usg=AOvVaw1-wWlUntO4SG2SuAcKOfDH Enjoy Gary

The rear Stainless trim above the soft top window is held with 5 special rectangular shaped spring clips, held with small rivets or tiny short self tappers, these are listed as Part Number 567228 according to Canley's Website (Still available) but I'm not sure if this is an error as they look like the riveted side trim clips to me when you google that part number? I've found these which I think are correct: https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/info_BSF257P.html Each curved end is then held with a raised countersunk pozi-drive chrome or stainless steel screws 1/2" long no.6 size YZ3324 (Again courtesy of Canley Classics Website) As stated, the screws need to be a good flush fit to stop them damaging the quarterlight window. I believe the Webbing plates where originally held in place with 1/8" rivets, that's what I used on my Vitesse. Regards Gary

The Reason the side bars crack or break completely at the header rail is they are supposed to pivot/twist at the Rivet to counteract the Front Bulkhead windscreen frame twisting/flexing. They often rust up and seize completely at the rivet, so a good spray of penetrating oil once in a while, then some normal oil should stop this happening Regards Gary

Pete No problem, always happy to talk Vitesse🙂 That's a photo of my old Vitesse at the Leicester/Rutland area Sunshine Rally in August 2007. You will be better off trying to find a couple of decent MK2 Vitesse/MK2 GT6 Ro-styles, but they are becoming increasingly rare in usable condition Gary

There are at least 6 different types of the Ro-style type Trims that I know of, possibly a couple more too? 1. TR5/Early TR6 (To suit 15" Rims) 2. Early 2.5PI (For 13" rims with an hole in the Middle for the Leyland Logo badge to bolt on) 3. Late 2.5PI (As above but different fixing ring) 4. Vitesse/GT6 Mk2 (No hole and a deeper fixing ring around 1") 5. Early Stag to suit 14" Rims (Hole in the centre, satin black painted and a slotted Hole for the Tyre Valve) 6. Later Stag to suit 14" Rims (Hole in the Centre, silver grey painted and a slotted hole for the Tyre Valve) You can fit one type of alternative trim (Early 2.5PI I think) to the Vitesse wheel but it will be tight up against the tyre and may fly off with spirited cornering I fitted some of the PI trims to my Vitesse but made up a Top Hat type bracket fixed under two wheel nuts and then used the Hole in the centre for a 2BA Screw to hold them on Gary

This looks nice and straight and in my favourite colour combination too. https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1576799 Wish I could sell my current Classic, I might be tempted then. Gary

If you do a search on here for Koni it will show you how I fitted Koni 80-1717 Dampers designed for the front of the Original Mini, to my old Vitesse MK2 fitted with standard Roto-flex suspension. The ride was slightly firmer but not harsh, I never raced the car but the Koni dampers supposedly give better handling. If you are happy with the Lever Arm dampers and they are serviceable and not leaking I wouldn't bother to be honest unless you are racing or sprinting Don't fit the Koni dampers specified for the earlier cars with the top Damper Extension Brackets or you will find they bottom out (They are too long when using the extension bracket) As Kevin states, the Koni Dampers specified for the earlier Vitesse 6 & 2 Litre Mk1 models should be ok if you convert to CV Driveshafts and use the original earlier top chassis mounts. Regards Gary

Yes, it is normal for the standard seats to catch the 'B' Post Hood well area when fully back. There have been some opinions posted on here previously regarding the seats being different in the Convertible to the Saloon and I believe handed too, I suppose a Parts book would tell your for sure but I sold mine years ago. I know there are slight difference in the internal construction of the Mk1 and Mk2 seats, which is detailed on the Newton Commercial website. Regards Gary

These are available from Newton Commercial, here's a link https://newtoncomm.co.uk/products/upper-dash-panel-rhd You will get a better price off one of the usual suppliers though (Canley Classic or James Paddocks) Regards Gary

Maybe I'm getting mixed up with the Triumph 2000 Engine, I've certainly seen them finished in a light blue colour. Gary

I Seem to remember they where a light blue colour?

For anyone interested, I watched the On-line auction, the car sold for £10,600 plus premiums. A good price for the vendor I reckon. Gary

They do get listed on E-Bay occasionally, usually not cheap though. Here are the parts that go on the 'B' Posts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285175231960?hash=item4265c4b5d8:g:7-gAAOSwbPRkCI9z&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwI%2BueJ93RhWcFrmCL%2BMZ7g5L95fGh2eRy32%2Fkr%2FEbNM30k9hbLxVn9TJmu2xaAID6A%2F3tmFcG6KQ%2FHLy1m5sv%2BzE9Bo8apdsJaDzEfNYCzleQQhhZ2RImTLhkGFG2CqhI%2B25kDr17H4aRWCgAoKKnL7%2B5%2Bsz2B%2B2JZxiJ3hCvLLw%2BDG5Yi70W5lnEqApdCB5mmeofX8%2BgTjp4fRK8oLyAbko706uQLh%2BrKfjaoQL%2BkH0ComkIljfHj0heOKtiTGm0Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR473u77bYQ

I always though the threaded plates within the 'B' posts were already present, or an I getting mixed up and it's simply the indentations that are present on the 'B' Post for drilling the holes? Whatever is the case, I certainly wouldn't let it put me off bidding if the price was right, I know the door mounted male part is screwed into a loose threaded plate within the door, so it wouldn't be to big a job to make some of these up, if you can't find any on E-Bay or off one of the usual suppliers. I've not looked at the car in the flesh and I suppose it could well be a converted Saloon, but again so long as the price isn't ridiculous and the works been done to a good standard with the correct front Bulkhead, again it shouldn't be a major issue. I do like originality, but it looks a nice restoration (A closer inspection is certainly worthwhile though before bidding) PS - If it was a Vitesse I may well be booking a day off and having a trip up to Pickering for sure, although I've got to sell mine first! Gary

True, but not a major issue to resolve? I suppose the seats are an acquired taste! It looks to have had a lot of work done and the interior looks all new including the Dash. Gary