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Josef

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Everything posted by Josef

  1. Ah. Well at least it’s a mystery solved… Looks like your car has gone from red to blue to green from that photo too!?
  2. Just for future reference as I’ve just dismantled the shift mechanism on the box I’m taking apart. These are where (some of) the o-rings you didn’t replace live. I never noticed them when I did the one on my Herald (are they even on all models?)
  3. Yeah the 3/4 outer will go on the 1/2 centre, and it’s a similarly loose fit. Difficult to see in the photos but I’ve just noticed there are visible lips of worn metal on the ends of the teeth. I feel like the smaller tooth profile is just cause of how knackered it is!
  4. I wonder if this page is the key to understanding your manifold. It describes modding a GT6 manifold to take SUs by moving the front carb studs further apart and drilling for new studs on 90 degrees out from the originals on the rear. The photos look very much like yours so could well be someone following that idea.
  5. The outer does not look or feel all that worn (this is the first gearbox I’ve opened though so this opinion may be revised in the future!). Based on the state of the synchro rings though I’d say this box has been “rebuilt” (opened, had a few new parts fitted, put back together) and then done very little, or even no, mileage. So the outer and inner parts of the hub could well be a mismatched set as it were.
  6. Thanks! It came with TR7 ones with plastic hub caps, which I actually quite liked at the time but now think are horribly unsuited. Plus I was never happy with the adaption of the hub centric wheels to be lug nut centric which presumably just involved someone taking a drill or grinder to them. Probably could improve the bonnet gap I’m sure. On that side it needs a small repair to the rear wing, and the door will eventually need skinning (it was done circa 1992 from what I know, but the repairs to the shell excluded any drain holes…) So any fiddling with gaps will be waiting till that work comes around.
  7. I’ve just been playing around with the bits of gearbox again and have come to a conclusion. I think the centre of the 1/2 shift hub is just really heavily worn. Comparing with the 3/4 centre the diameters are the same, but the teeth on the 1/2 are a lot thinner, and some have almost step like forms on the inner faces. In the photos, right is 1/2 and left is 3/4. Feels logical that the 1/2 will suffer the most punishment. Given the state of the input shaft tip too I’d guess at some of these parts at least came from a pretty high mileage box.
  8. All back together again! I took Colin’s tip from the Courier and polished the rear light reflector dishes, feels like it made them a bit brighter (thanks to my grey assistant for the brake light test!) Took a while to get any fuel through after I’d had the tank out, but it starts and drives, and most importantly appears fuel tight. Still got a bit of cleaning to do as despite my efforts some dust from the bodywork has ended up inside the car.
  9. Hmm, I’d say the difference in colour is cause they’ve not supplied a matched set! Also, that bit was vinyl originally and the carpet goes over it at the edges. On top of that the pointed bits on the edges are wrong. Might not just be the wrong colour but the wrong part entirely?
  10. On the subject of jacks in cars, my R56 Mini Cooper S came with a jack and wheel change kit. None of the modern Minis (well up to that point, some of them are monstrously large now!) have anywhere you might put a spare, and BMW are big on supplying runflats, so I never understood why they gave it a jack. It lived on a shelf in the garage till I sold the car!
  11. The super thin gasket for the top cover-gearchange extension is what I got in the last kit I bought. The one I stripped off the gearbox I'm disassembling today was also very thin (I'm pretty sure this box was "rebuilt" at some point in the past and never used though so that won't be original). Given the position though I'd guess the gasket's purpose is more so you don't have metal-metal contact rather than being a super oil seal as it's going to be splashed rather than immersed in oil.
  12. Should just be a case of having the gearstick in a neutral position and lowering the part down. Give the gearstick a wiggle and it should feel right for neutral. I’m also pretty sure you’d have trouble getting the extension all the way on to the top cover with the selector ball arm thing in the wrong place!
  13. Can’t find a good diagram online (Canley’s link for the single rail mainshaft seems to be sending me back to the three rail mainshaft page @Works Spitfires?) The closest I have is from a Dolomite Haynes manual, looks like you should have: missing thrust washer, top hat bush, bush, thrust washer you have, circlip.
  14. I’ve just done something similar and Heath-Robinsoned together a puller out of one that was too small and a load of M10 studding I scavenged from our greenhouse base. RB could mean ‘refurbished by’ so you can write your own name in sharpie on it when it’s back together
  15. According to the Thomason book MkIIIs were fitted with the second gaiter sewn to the carpet after stocks of the MkII spec carpets had been used up. Doesn’t give a date for that though.
  16. I’ve read somewhere that the bonnet catches were coated in a wax before fitting, painted over and then the wax and paint was scraped off. By the final Spitfires they’d stopped bothering with the scraping off part. Can’t remember the source of this though… But it would fit with the appearance of the photo.
  17. Dust covers off so I could connect the battery and check the electrics, and a coat of paint for the inside of the new n/s overrider. Had to fiddle about with a rubbish earth on the n/s light cluster but otherwise all going well.
  18. My 13/60 convertible has no crossed flags (or signs the holes have been filled or similar) and was built 1st/2nd Dec 69 according to the heritage cert.
  19. No worries. I’m currently on a gearbox parts hunt myself for 4 synchro 3 rail boxes such as yours is (I think?) so will also give you a shout if I end up with a spare shaft.
  20. Well I have a potential lead on a spare box local to me, so I’ll see how that pans out. Really just curious at the moment as to what’s going on!
  21. Canleys have 129952 second hand for £15. But that’s the Mk3 version and the MkIV version has a different part number. Bunch of results on eBay for spitfire gearbox remote at £35ish for the whole assembly you’ve taken off.
  22. Bit of reassembly as the paint has finally dried (and the Spitfire gearbox project has stalled). I think I need to pull the rear of the rear quarter out a bit though, of course only noticing after I’d put the overrider and lamp lense back on!
  23. Good news on the connecting rod! And the rest sounds good too. I've had one of the County branded master cylinders (from Canley's) on my Herald's clutch for, maybe 8ish years now. Seems happy enough. I went through a load of crappy eBay ones on the brake cylinder in the same period...
  24. Thanks Pete, but it's the 1st/2nd hub thats problematic. I've been playing around, the inner from the 3rd/4th hub is a good fit on the outer of the 1st/2nd. Which makes me more sure it's only the inner of the 1st/2nd hub that's wrong. I also can't get the ball bearings out of the 1st/2nd inner but that's probably unimportant for me right now!
  25. What did you use for the ring around the gear lever? I did make my own for my Spitfire but it was loose on the top where the gearstick passes through. (won’t be going back on the car when the time comes)
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