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Josef

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Everything posted by Josef

  1. Josef
    The number on this box is for a 72 US Spitfire. It has 4 synchro rings in it so I assume most of the correct gearset. The 1/2 hub inner part does not have anything to lock against the mainshaft (I’m pretty sure it doesn’t at least, will have to double check later).
  2. Josef
    Oh right, all my recent Herald panels I bought through the club shop but they were shipped straight from Fitchetts. There was a mix up with one of the part numbers so Angie phoned me, and as part of that conversation I’m sure she said we should be able to order anything Fitchetts stock in the same way (as in ask the club shop to buy it for us). Could be misremembering though.
  3. Josef
    Well I believe (but am not 100% sure) you can buy anything Fitchetts sell via the club shop, with member discount. Not everything is listed on the TSSC site though so it might be worth finding what you want on the TD Fitchett site and shooting an email to the club shop?
  4. Josef
    Seconded that Humbrol gloss brown is a pretty good match for the original edging paint. I’ve also had success with plasticote, same method as NonMember describes.
  5. Josef
    My guess is early and late 3 rail parts. But I suppose I shall find out when I manage to find some spares or a donor and can make some comparisons.
  6. Josef

    Fuel gauge.

    Josef replied to Pdv's topic in Electrical System

    Easy test would be to switch the wiring between the temperature and fuel gauges (unless you have a 1200, I think they don’t have a temp gauge?). They’re exactly the same thing but with a different face. So if the behaviour changes when you change the wiring, the gauges are fine and it’s the sender, otherwise the other way around. If you only have a fuel gauge the voltage regulator (usually screwed to the back of the speedo) is worth suspecting too.
  7. Josef
    Right, that’s what I expected would be the case. I wasn’t thinking something wobbling about in a gearbox could possibly be normal! I’m guessing the sliding sleeve is correct, and the hub is from an earlier box based on the fit of the synchro ring teeth. Going to be time to find another donor gearbox I think. You can get a replacement part for this shift mechanism, but at £125 I’ll gamble on getting something useful out of a second donor first, if I can find one.
  8. Josef
    Just flipped my cover back into neutral for a better photo but Colin has beaten me to it! And his is cleaner anyway
  9. Josef
    It should just be a case of undo the 4 bolts and lift. There’s no alignment issues, you just need to get the selector arm into the slot of the selector forks (they’re all aligned when the car is in neutral unlike the photo, but I didn’t want to get oily messing with it just now!). And obviously keep things clean so you don’t drop any muck into the box!
  10. Josef
    Do you mean the top of the remains of the existing sill? I’d check on the seam between the top and bottom a-posts if so. The sill could’ve been fitted to an already wonky bulkhead. (Bit of a clutch at straws from me here though as it sounds like there is something else going on that’s causing your problems)
  11. Josef
    The rubber one nominally will keep oil, fumes etc from getting in the cabin, and the fabric one is just to look prettier. Though the repro rubber one I fitted to my Herald hasn’t lasted all that well (but that doesn’t have a fabric cover at all)
  12. Josef
    When I rebushed my Herald’s gear change I took the selector arm bit off the top of the box so I could do the rebush on the bench, and did manage to leave the rest of the gearbox alone! Thinking about it, the stud part that forces you to push down on the stick to select reverse was terribly worn on mine. Would probably be worth renewing that. I made my own on the lathe by modifying a suitable bolt just cause I could. Just checked though and they’re NLA, buuuut Mick Dolphin apparently has some for £2.50. Part no 118054
  13. Josef
    What does the part that gearstick has been wearing against look like? (The rod that connects the stick to the selector mechanism in the box I mean)
  14. Josef
    If I remember the pictures of the state of your a-posts correctly Charlie then I’d be surprised if the bulkhead hadn’t dropped. Could the pram handle / bonnet support tubes be misshapen? Someone more knowledgeable would have to chip in with how you might tell that without a known good car to measure from though.
  15. Josef
    I would recommend getting to know Inkscape (free and open source) if you want to colourise a wiring diagram. It wouldn’t be much use for creating a wiring diagram from scratch, but for tracing over one in colour definitely better in the end than Word! That said if you end up with what you need and aren’t intending on doing more than one, whatever works for you
  16. Josef
    I’ve just found your thread Paul. I think you were describing the whole hub unit moving relative to the mainshaft? My inner fits nicely on the mainshaft, but the outer can move in more directions than just up and down the direction of the mainshaft. If that make sense?
  17. Josef
    Hmm, there was another thread where some people couldn’t see videos. Anyway, the video is trying to show that the outer bit of the hub part 156911 does not just slide up and down on the inner part parallel to the mainshaft, but can be moved significantly in the plane 90 degrees to the mainshaft. There’s barely any resistance to sliding it, the ball bearings barely keep it in place. (I’ll post some photos of it disassembled later today or tomorrow)
  18. Josef
    Now I have the spare box in bits. I’ve not cleaned anything up properly but in general the gears look to me all to be in pretty decent shape, excepting reverse which has a tiny bit of chipping. I’d say this gearbox has probably been rebuilt in the past as the lay shaft looks barely used, and the synchros look unworn and all feel positive on the gears (they won’t turn even when pressed on very lightly so I assume that’s good?) Bad things: one of the washers is cracked through! And the 1st/2nd shift unit is very sloppy (video attached) which doesn’t feel right at all. I’ve had three different manuals out trying to figure out if one of the parts isn’t correct for the box, hence the poor fit, not certain though. I’d assume there shouldn’t be any appreciable gap between the inner and outer pieces. I’ll likely go to Mike Papworth for parts and answers, but I’ll wait till I’ve cleaned everything up and taken some measurements so I’ve a better idea of what I might need. In the meantime if anyone’s able to satisfy my curiosity… IMG_0962.MOV
  19. Josef
    Here’s the Mk3 wiring diagram https://gitlab.com/jovisg/SpitfireMk3WiringDiagram
  20. Josef
    I drew my own coloured one for the UK spec MkIII Spit. I have it shared online, I’ll dig out the link and post it here when I’m done in the garage for today.
  21. Josef
    And following Pete’s suggestion it’s out. Thanks everyone!
  22. Josef
    Oh, I was about to say yes I had given that a go, but no I hadn’t thought about in effect trying to make it rotate. Just been out fitting a new floodlight so back to the garage for another try. Fingers crossed!
  23. Josef
    This is the culprit. I have tried giving it a bash via a brass drift, and the marks on the key are my attempts at gripping it with pliers / mole grips. Good to know the shaft should be salvageable though. Economics pending!
  24. Josef
    Any suggestions on removing the overdrive oil pump drive Woodruff key I have jammed in my gearbox mainshaft. I used a puller to get the bearing over it (with no intention of reusing the bearing!) but obviously that’s not the best plan when it comes to the gears. The mainshaft itself I am sure is scrap anyway unfortunately (unless the pictured wear is somehow repairable!?), so I was considering just wrapping the gearset up to protect it from swarf and taking a file to the key. Any reason that might be a terrible plan?
  25. Josef
    Also, while we’re on it @chrishawley, what’s the (or even a) proper name for the technique you demonstrated of building a continuous weld from multiple overlapping tacks? I thought it was stitch welding, but that’s what Pete is demonstrating on the overlap joints on his tunnel above (short weld, gap, short weld etc).
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