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Posts posted by Paula
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Ok so things that have to come off for access to the head nuts is Exhaust manifold rocker cover anfd rocker shaft?
Do i need to get the inlet manifold and carbs off too?
Will i have to completely remove the manifold or just pull it out of the way?
I'm going to try and have a go tomorrow before work -
It was running yes.
i have been losing coolant. But not lots. After my Weymouth trip it took quite a bit, maybe 3/4 of a pint, but that was a 300mile trip.
sometimes it does take a bit to get all the cylinders firing, but this morning it was fine and it’s running very nicely.
I might as well do a re toque first. Hopefully in the next couple of days. I’m still using it. Hope that’s ok. -
I used my new endoscope camera to get a good look.
Ignore the cotton bud! I was cleaning the area before insertion. 😳
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4 minutes ago, NonMember said:
err....
Correct - Pete seems to have forgotten that quirk of the Mk1 head. But the manifolds aren't as much hassle as the full drain down and removal of water pump housing.
Ok. Understood!
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7 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
well a retorque doesnt need a drain down or the manifolds off
as an interim trial
but you like a challenge
head off can be stubborn if any studs have corroded gunge locking them in the head holes
doug had a really stuck set and we used my prefered stud extractor and a loooong braker bar
with both of us swinging on it to unscrew the studs to get the head off this bit of kit wont let go
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-connection-tc3986-impact-stud-extractor/
Oh dear. Don’t like the sound of that much.
I thought the manifolds have to come off to get to the nuts?I’ll get the Haynes out!
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Just now, Pete Lewis said:
there are thing that get in the way of a socket like rocker shafts and maybe some manifold stuff on a Mk1 or 1600 with a stepped head top
on a retorque its obviously best to do all nuts not just the easy ones
pete
If i have to take the rocker off and the manifold isn't it worth taking the head off for a look see?
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It's tiny bubbles. almost fizzing out. Maybe it's a tiny crack. Hopefully in the gasket and not the head!
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I've just run it without the radiator cap on and it's still bubbling out of the same place. It does it straight away from cold as soon as it's running.
That means head gasket i guess?
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59 minutes ago, poppyman said:
Hi Paula, have you tried running the engine without the pressure cap fully tight? ie no pressure in system. If the leak stops, it probably is not the head gskt. If it continues look elsewhere.
Tony.
I’ll try this later.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
if you do have to lift the head get a set of head nuts washer faced from mini spares 3/8" x24 unf
cheaper and better to replace the old ones i bet the washers will be dished
do you want my spare gaskets I dont need them
Pete
I’ve ordered a gasket set. Probably easier. I’m going to try and torque them down first to see if that works. I’ll order the nuts now.
cheers!if torquing doesn’t work I’d appreciate a check list of the procedure for changing the head gasket.
just so I don’t screw it up!
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It looks like the K Seal didn't work. I went for a half hour drive.
Looks like i'll have to do a proper job.Dammit!
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It was the Prince's Trust.
Got me an a little tool kit made by a company called Taskmaster. -
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3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
just get a montezuma's torque wrench
Pete
It won't last long enough
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1 minute ago, NonMember said:
I'm one of the "really don't like K-seal" brigade. I had a leaky Mk1 Vitesse engine (small crack in the block, in fact) and it just made things worse. It might work for your tiny dribble but I wouldn't bet on it. Manifold off and re-torque the head nuts would be my recommendation, followed by a new head gasket if that doesn't do it.
I like the fact i can easily see the leak. If the K-seal doesn't do it i'll do a proper job, maybe even get the head checked if that has to come off.
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1 minute ago, poppyman said:
This stuff works wonders Paula, even sealed my stag inlet manifold leak
Cheaper than K-seal. Nothing will stop a water pump leak.
Tony.
What stuff? I've ordered the K seal already. £11
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1 minute ago, johny said:
Ha, of course you could try retorquing the head bolts a little although the MK1 head does need the manifold off to do it completely☹️
That's annoying. I saw there's no way to get a spanner on the one at that end
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Just now, johny said:
wasnt there talk of an Italian tune up previously - were you a bit over enthusiastic?
It was my trip down to Weymouth. Maybe I was a little too keen to see the sea!
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I've ordered some K seal too.
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3 minutes ago, johny said:
Theres definitely no way its running down from the water pump seal?
I cleaned it up as much as i could and i don't think so. It's bubbling out of there. I've ordered a new pump anyway as it's making a horrible noise. Even after greasing it so much it was glooping on the floor.
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3 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Paila,
the best fix is to get the head off and see what is actually going on.
However it may be worth putting some leak sealer in the system.
Kseal is recommended by many TR owners. However some folk don;t like it.
Roger
I'll put the egg back in the fridge then.
What's the downside of K-Seal? -
Oh dear. I don't like the look of that at all. Right behind the water pump at the front of the head.
Head gasket gone?
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4 hours ago, daverclasper said:
Hi Paula. Did a Streatham tune up, sort the clutch?.
Dave
I think so. It’s better or I’m driving differently. Maybe it needs more burn!
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Hello from Paula and her Vitesse
in I thought I'd introduce myself
Posted
Good idea. I’m not liking the idea of doing it in this weather.