rlubikey

Use a non-setting sealant and you will be able to remove the trim when you do the same job in another 45 years time! I used Arbomast windscreen sealant and 29 years later I was able to drill out and remove the trim without damaging it, but I'm sure there are many other suitable products. Cheers, Richard

The Herald/Atlas Trans-Africa testing run was described in the book "Turn Left For Tangier". One kind soul had a scanned copy on their web site but presumably had to take it down for copyright reasons. However, there was a small promotional pamphlet called "Sahara Tested" and, as I believe magazine/pamphlet copyright is only 50 years ... Sahara Tested Cheers, Richard

I wasn't feeling on top form today, so I spent the afternoon moving my Atlas restoration thread on the Standard forum to a visible section. Now, if you follow the link in my signature, you can see the whole story - so far - which started in 2011 when I bought the one for sale on Ebay. Cheers, Richard PS: COVID test came up negative, so it's just "man-flu".

Even then it's difficult, the Atlas being "brick" shaped. It's not exactly aerodynamic. I can confirm that the top speed of the 948cc Atlas "Minor" is indeed 52mph, foot to the floor and the engine screaming for mercy. But the slightest incline and the speed falls rapidly. 45mph ... 40mph ... suddenly you feel very vulnerable on a motorway with everyone else shooting past! We've built a 1650cc engine (a stroked 1500) to give my Atlas a bit more ooomph. Well, about double the oomph actually. Keep these pictures coming. Cheers, Richard PS: I've asked the Moderators if they would move my Atlas thread to a public part of the Standard forum. But "No Answer", came the stern reply! So I guess I'll have to move it myself, brick by brick so-to-speak. I'll keep you informed.

Yes, do the work first otherwise it must be really depressing when you get the shell back and it's more like a colander! Cheers, Richard

Mike, looking at that bonnet with the extra top section reminds me ... do you happen to have a photo of Harry Webster's 6-cylinder Herald before Michelotti's Vitesse bonnet? There's a photograph of the "Kenilworth Dragster" with a Vitesse bonnet in Graham Robson's Herald & Vitesse book (pp 88). But I feel sure I've read somewhere that the prototype department modified a Herald bonnet prior to the Vitesse project, while he was simply using it as his personal transport. Cheers, Richard

Mike, Atlas restoration has stalled since 2018. Maybe there will be some progress getting it on the road later this year. I'll post here when I do. Cheers, Richard

I finally got around to taking my V5 to the post office a few weeks ago. Funny how apparently simple things keep going to the back of the queue. Today my V5 came back from DVLA and my 2.5l Spit is now classed as historic - that will save a bit of money! This reminds me that there's been a recent article in the Courier on a 6-cylinder Spit in the June 2021 edition of the club magazine. The former owner describes how he bought a Spit with a Vitesse 1600 engine all the way back in 1975. Another documented Spitfire 6. Cheers, Richard

Mike, I'm loving all these great photos you have. If you keep them coming, I'll keep loving them! I used to sometimes get a lift to primary school with the lady from round the corner in her red Herald convertible in the mid-60's. Happy days! Cheers, Richard

Thanks Richeee! It looks good because we did loads of work** before sending it off for dipping. My main reason for SPL was the so-called "modern rust protection" which is a dipping process so should get into all the seams. I think it was the only one available at the time. I haven't looked closely at Ribble or Enviro Strip but they both claim to do E-coating (electrophoretic coating - same as SPL) so may be just as good or even better, I don't know - check the details they publish. For some reason that chap on the TR forum didn't opt for E-coating, just phosphoric acid which, as he says, is only temporary protection. Cheers, Richard ** Despite being a nice original car, Ziebarted from new with only 12 years on the road and dry garage stored since, it needed new sills, wings, numberplate panel, door skins ... plus the engine-back mods. Doing all these first meant the repairs - including the welds - were all E-coat protected. When it came back from SPL resplendent in its black coat, people were going to Picton Sportscars and asking him "where did you get that NEW Spit body from?"

+1 for Surface Processing Limited. I haven't had any trouble with fluid seeping from joints, but this was done in early summer 2010 and I seem to recall we left it a few weeks before painting so maybe that gave it time to dry completely? The black is the electrophoretic coating - part of the anti-rust process. Cheers, Richard

If you've got the old valve, swap the top cover/actuator over to convert the new one to pull-for-off. Cheers, Richard

My S-reg Spit also has the "Triumph" light which I believe is original, whereas my old blue X-reg (actually built Aug '79) had the later button ones like Mjit. It should say in the parts catalogue at what chassis number they converted. I much prefer the earlier style, so interesting to hear that you can convert. Cheers, Richard

Johno, what are the roads like round your way? I had 480lb springs and found the drive was horrible as the car crashed over the Berkshire pot holes. I've now fitted standard (for a Spit) 180lb springs and I think the handling is fine. I suppose you've got to weigh up the road surface against how sharp you want the steering to be. If you only do track days then it's no contest - 480lb all the way! Cheers, Richard

People fit Monroe Max-Air's to Spits to avoid a saggy bottom. Here's my old blue Spit. So I fitted them to my current Spit. Unfortunately one of my Max-Air's failed after a few years - Monroe quality or bad luck? Another air-adjustable shock for Spit rear ends is Gabriel "Hijackers" 49304 which I haven't tried. Do you recall which manufacturer these shocks were? Cheers, Richard

They've got a monopoly on moulded carpets and don't see the need to do a more expensive material. They probably say to themselves "who would pay the extra?" Well, I'm sure many of us would! I'm holding on to my original carpets until they do. Cheers, Richard

Hi Clive. I bought new seals for my hard top in about 1990 and I've hardly used it since then. It lives in the house so doesn't see temperature extremes. The two pads with the slots where the rear fitting bolts go through measure 7.5mm x 51mm x 22.5mm. These pads are made of VERY hard rubber, so they do NOT compress as you tighten the bolts, otherwise you get a lovely outline imprint on the rear deck! The other two pads (without the slots) are the same but made of softer rubber. They either conform to the soft top, or seal the soft top fitting holes if you un-bolt the rear bar. The other furflex seal is very similar to the modern - incorrect - stuff supplied for the doors. <Just went to check and you've replied since then> It is a "bubble" type furflex similar to the stuff you've ordered, but the bubble cross-section is triangular. I would say that what you've ordered will fit, but it might initially be a bit firm tightening down. With time it will settle in. Hope this helps. Cheers, Richard

Yes, I've had problems with alternators, including a new higher capacity one from a reputable Triumph specialist. I took the high capacity one to a local alternator rebuilder in Burghfield Common (doesn't help you in Cumbria!) and he showed me how the nut holding the diode pack together wasn't tight. That's Chinese quality control for you! Vibration resulted in movement of the connections leading to failure after a year or two. By the way, the alternator would sometimes screech, which made me assume the bearings were dying, but I think this was the beginning of the intermittent connection in the diode pack. Cheers, Richard

I'm sure I remember reading somewhere that Harry Webster regretted not patenting the 2000 semi-trailing suspension design, which was obviously thought good enough to use on the 1300, TR4A/5/6 & Stag. Of course the Triumph 1300 was FWD but had the semi-trailing rear end. Whether it was the semi-trailing arms, or some other aspect of the suspension which was patentable I don't know. Cheer, Richard

You can bribe us to re-elect you with beer in Sweeney's this evening Doug Cheers (expectantly), Richard

Yes, when I went for roller rockers, the chap building my engine asked if I wanted a rocker feed kit. I already knew they were generally considered the SPAWN OF THE DEVIL for normal top ends (quite right KevinR). While my roller rockers are a slightly higher ratio, they also have needle bearings. My simple mind says that ball and needle bearings need only a smidge of lube as they are rolling surfaces, while sleeve bearings need somewhat more - a flow of oil in fact - as they would otherwise be rubbing surfaces and subject to wear. Please enlighten me if you have a different view. Of course, your Goodparts roller rockers Steve P may be sleeve bearings in which case your logic stands up to my simple minded thinking. In any case Jagnut 66, the rocker feed kit does exactly what it says on the tin - it increases the oil flow to the head. But the oil pump is a positive displacement pump so pumps a fixed volume with every revolution. (I'm ignoring back-flow in the pump.) So, as has been said by several people already, you run the risk of starving the crank bearings and increasing wear there. Ask yourself this question - is it easier/cheaper to do a top-end rebuild or a bottom-end rebuild? I know which I'd prefer to do - the top end every time. Cheers, Richard

Likewise, I've always been happy with Spitbitz who are a few miles down the road from me. No connection, etc. Cheers, Richard

The instructions looked like they were translated from Japanese into English by somebody in Taiwan! Prince Philip to me in 2002, talking about the instructions for his new mobile phone. Cheers, Richard PS: Name-dropping? Me?

Colin, I think you'll find that the "little perforations" (was that a tea-bag advert?) are for lightness. Disc brakes on bikes are still heavier than rim brakes. But whereas they give reliable braking off-road in muddy conditions, I believe they're just being needlessly pushed into the on-road market by the manufacturers. They want us to buy new bikes - this years model - and make it more likely we'll throw the bike away when something small fails. Cheers, Richard - who DOES stop at red lights (bike and car)

+1 for Shed & Buried. It sounds like what it is - two mates rummaging around someone's barn looking for anything that interests them. Just what I like doing. Cheers, Richard