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I've not come across one. All the combined gauges I've found have been capillary types, which is why I ended up adding holes (and binnacles) to my Vitesse dash.

No, that's not "thermocouple", it's the "capillary" type. Thermocouples are a tiny electrical differential metal junction that needs very sensitive electronics to read. Capillary gauges are entirely mechanical. No. Those capillary ones are a real pain because you can't dismantle them at all.

I believe the Mk3 Spitfire had the larger reservoir as standard but with the 5/8" bore to suit type 14 calipers. The Vitesse and GT6 with type 16 calipers had the same large reservoir but a bigger bore (0.7" rings a bell but that's probably been rounded from 11/16").

I suspect the insulation strength of surgical glove material is rather higher than that of air, so it may work.

Not on a Herald. On a Herald it's - first position, exterior lights (side, main or dip depending on column stalk) - second position, dash illumination as well. Might the jewel look like it's on because of dash illumination? I've had that in the past. Either way, my bet's on the wire from the dash switch to the column switch, which is separate from the wire that feeds (from the same dash switch terminal) the side lights

A very potent, distinctive smell, that would cling to anything you wash in the same machine that's ever seen a cloth that was used for T-cut.

Yes, 1974 US model, using the same clutch as a 1500TC. It may well also be the same as a Morris.

Definitely swap the diff. We put a 1500 into a Herald with a 4.11 and it was... good for a laugh. The 3.63 diff transformed it. That's what we did, and I've now got that engine/flywheel with a Mk4 box in my Spitfire.

Not many Heralds had the sliding joint - that was a Vitesse/Spitfire/GT6 thing.

What matters is the fitted length being sufficient. The fitted length of a (compression) spring is nearly always shorter than the free length, by an amount that is set to get the baseline force. The spring constant determines how much force is needed to compress it further. So as long as you don't shorten the spring to below the fitted length it will still support the diaphragm but will exert less force and thus generate lower fuel pressure.

I would have thought the Vitesse 1600 system had the same vertical downpipe as the 2L, whereas the Spitfire / Herald 1300 manifold is angled. If you have a Spitfire 1500 manifold, that's a twin downpipe design. If you're using the Spitfire downpipe and trying to mate the exhaust to that, the main question is whether the bore is the same. All the small chassis cars bring the downpipe under the gearbox in pretty much the same place, to within the tolerance of pipe manufacture. There may be some chopping needed if the first pipe joint is in a different place along the route.

As this is the input side, there's really very little pressure there, so PTFE tape, O-ring, solder the olive, or similar should all be adequate. Unless, of course, your stub pipe is cracked, in which case you need to replace it, as Colin said. They're not usually too propblematic to do, as the brass doesn't generally weld itself to the alloy or corrode straight through it, like some other metals might.

Strange in what way? If you're new to Heralds you may not be aware that they ALWAYS sit up on tippy toes at the rear when you've jacked them up and put them back down. You need to roll it at least 50 yards before it settles to the normal camber.

I nearly asked that myself - the Mk3 definitely just has foam in a cage but I'm not sure on the Mk2. Certainly there's not a lot of space down the bottom of a GT6 seat.

So it does. OK, so it's the early wiring, which means it's not the master light switch that's failed (unless it's been modified, of course).

It means you connect the blue wire to the points, alongside the existing wire to the coil. If you have a distributor with flying leads, so that it's not easy to do so, then you can perfectly happily connect the blue wire to the coil "CB" (or '-') terminal, where the wire from the distributor is attached. Leave all the existing wiring as it is - you're only adding to it, the tacho observes but doesn't take part in the operation of the engine.

I think you'd need a special cradle under the chassis. The forks clearly aren't in direct contact with the middle of the chassis as to do so would have crushed the sill, and the photo shows a gap there. The truck does appear to have a dedicated cradle for a Herald, as you say. I wonder whether this was a special "show" car with its transporter.

If the headlights don't work on dip then it's not because you've been flashing people - that only uses the main beam filaments. What car are we talking about here? Do you have the old "Herald-style" column stalk that selects side/main/dip or the later master switch to select side/head and a main/dip only column?

Indeed. I've fitted electric fuel pumps to a Triumph twice. The one on the Spitfire made no difference to the problems it was having - because the problem was the tank. The one on the Vitesse did fix the original trouble (it had a 13/60 pump and suffered vapour lock whenever the engine got warm) but introduced a pile of others. It now has a proper glass bowl mechanical pump and all is good.

That sort of surging or bucking is very unlikely to be a clutch or gearbox issue. It could well be a fuel problem, though, or an ignition problem. If it were running SU or Stromberg carbs I'd say make sure the dashpot has some engine oil in it. I'm not sure what the equivalent "common issue" on a Solex would be.

I have a joggling tool (essentially a pair of mole grips with smooth, wide, stepped jaws) which work quite well for those.

Not if you arrange the hose into an elevated jar, as Pete recommends.

The curvy washers go further down the stub shaft, where it's round, don't they?

That 10mm measurement certainly suggests it's an early Vitesse/GT6 Mk1 flywheel.

Well, possibly in theory, but you're unlikely to get enough to ignite, in reality. In fact performance engines are deliberately set up to pull through inlet mixture so as to purge the incombustible exhaust gasses. Popping on overrun is nearly always an indication of misfire. You don't notice the misfire itself because the expected torque output is very small (negative if you're talking flywheel torque) but the unburnt mixture gets vented into the very hot exhaust manifold and ignites there instead.