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Original factory rear springs for Heralds and derivatives were, indeed, marked "FRONT" or similar. Nobody seems to know why, as the spring is symmetrical. Possibly it was just to avoid apprentices and new hires asking how they could tell which way round to fit it.

I've done Type 16 calipers myself - dismantle, clean, reassemble with new pistons and seals - and they work fine. Which part does "someone" think needs to be "refaced"?

I have to say, that diagnosis sounds questionable to me, and coming from someone who would quote such an outrageous price makes a second opinion (from a trusted actual Triumph specialist) well worth getting.

Be aware that doing so is in violation of construction and use regulations. You are only allowed two dip beam lights. My Vitesse has recently had new H1 inners (I think I'd bought them for the Stag, or at least while I had it) and they show up the elderly H4 outers somewhat.

I note that every such clip I've ever bought has a counter-sunk hole in the middle for the screw that you will inevitably need...

I agree with foshi - that looks like Triumph White - Old English is yellower. Also agree that the craftmaster paints are good, having recently used some on my Vitesse.

If it's not leaking I'd leave well alone. You can treat the surface to clean up the apparent cracks and hardness, though I can't remember what with. I'm sure Pete will have a suggestion.

Perhaps the finest monarch one could hope for, she will be greatly missed. She exemplified her Christian faith and the spirit of service to her people and country.

No worries - I composed almost the same reply earlier on but decided not to send it as I've been accused of "point scoring" in the past, but we all know that you're not so inclined.

Interesting photo Colin. However, with the addition of after-market lights on the dashboard - to replace the ones that were in the multi-gauge originally - I strongly suspect that's not original. The Toledo parts catalogue shows part 215859, which has only two gauges top and bottom with indicator tell-tales to the left and right.

I'm fairly sure the Toledo one was only two gauges. The square-headlight Dolomites may have had three (it's a long time since I owned one) but definitely not an oil pressure one. I'd suspect the same of the low-end 2000 versions. It's a bit of a puzzle.

No, not on a four. They probably are on a six. They nominally breathe better but won't give as good mixture control. A single carb on a 1500 - whether it be a Stromberg on a 13/60 manifold or an HS4 on a Toledo one - will work fine and give good economy, but will lack top-end power.

I don't think it's from a 2L Vitesse as I'm pretty sure they were 120mph speedos. Could be a late 1600, perhaps. As for the voltage regulator, I'm pretty sure my Mk3 Spit has it there (but, again, marked to 120mph) but I'm not sure on Mk2

Some Heralds (and most Mk1 2000 saloons) never had anti-roll bars from new. You can happily drive without it if you don't mind a bit more body roll. What Daver is remembering is probably that the ARB encourages understeer, so without it you get better turn in - although with a car that's prone to oversteer that isn't necessarily a benefit.

My Spitfire used to make such noises because the tyre was catching the inner return lip at the front of the wheel arch. IT never looked like it should but after a while the results of the rubbing were obvious.

It's worth a visual inspection of the thrust faces on the crankshaft - which should be smooth and flat - but from those photos I'm not expecting you to find any problems there.

What the design intent is tells us very little about what a previous owner has done with them. It looks likely they've been used to lower the ride height, and using them to raise it again would actually put the shocks back closer to where they want to be.

I suspect the "spare" (bigger) seal housing is for the Dolomite 1850 version of the box, and may also match the GT6.

How do the front wheels look in the arches with the bonnet closed? I'd say you probably want to raise the front somewhat, and yes, probably lower the rear. I had the opposite problem with mine - the rear spring is worn out and the (new) front ones were too strong so I had to change them. You want a fraction more tyre-to-arch clearance at the front than the back but probably only a fat finger's width in each. Lower than that may appeal to boy racers but doesn't work on British roads. Fortunately you have the adjustable ride height front shocks so it's an easy fix at that end.

There does look to be a groove for an O-ring to fit in. I'd be very surprised if it was intended to do without any sort of seal. Unfortunately the 2000 WSM only shows the Mk1 version, which is the same as the Vitesse.

As Graham and johny said, the vent pipe was added to the tank for the US market, where a charcoal canister was required. UK cars retained the vented filler cap and the stub pipe just got capped off. There's no problem adding a pipe (hose or microbore) to vent that stub pipe out under the boot floor and quite a lot of owners do so.

That had happened to my GT6 before I bought it - the timing chain had lost most of the hardened rings on the link pins, and the shards fell into the sump. Some of them had clearly got into the pump and embedded themselves in the workings, despite it being the later type with a gauze over the end. So I'm not convinced the gauze makes all that much difference.

Also, what size tyres. The original big steering wheel with 145 tyres would be a LOT lighter on the steering than, say, a 13" wheel with 175/70 tyres. My Spitfire has nice light steering (original wheel, 155 tyres) but the GT6 has a small wheel and 175/70s on top of the heavier engine...

On the six cylinder cars, there was a design change around 1968. Early cars used a straight pump pick-up like yours, with a gauze filter plate across the sump (there was a hole in that plate for the pump to poke through). Later ones lost the filter plate and instead had a gauze over the end of the pick-up. I'd assume the same design change happened on the four cylinder engines (I vaguely recall my brother's Mk2 Spitfire being the early style but all the other ones I've ever dismantled were later engines). So it looks like you may have an early pump with a late sump, which results in no gauze at all.

It looks like a 2L one but not sure whether it's early or late (the fixing bolts are different size) or saloon (generally heavier).