johny
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Posts posted by johny
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3 hours ago, Bobtaylor said:
Hi, I have a MK1 Vitesse which has had a replacement bonnet from a MK2. Is the actual bonnet the same (apart from the grille) ? Is it a simple job to fit the correct grille, assuming I can find one?
It's funny as I'm thinking of going the opposite way as I suspect the MK1 grill might restrict airflow quite a bit more than the mk2. Sorry not going to get rid of the original grill just yet though☹️
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No, we need more elephants!
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On 05/06/2020 at 11:54, dougbgt6 said:
I tried dimpled and grooved, no noticeable difference to everyday driving and nobody tells you they are NOISEY. I moved them on and reverted to standard and Mintex pads.
Doug
I thought the theory was they help remove the gases released from the pads under very heavy braking so won't make any difference for normal road driving...
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Not sure about the original gaskets as I found em pretty useless so made one from 2mm rubber sheet using a paper hole punch for the screw holes...
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Yes spread the load on the sump with a piece of wood and try not to leave the gearbox hanging off the engine unsupported. Then be careful the input shaft doesn't fall on the clutch assembly as you withdraw the tip from the flywheel. Can be done by one but best with someone on both sides...
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You'll need to look at the condition of the surfaces where needle rollers run on directly. These are the tip of the main shaft and corresponding hole in the input shaft plus inside each end of the laygear. These areas are surface hardened and once this is worn through are a problem....
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Yes unfortunately it's likely that you'll find some other worn components in the box and will have to decide whether to live with them or spend some money. Either way there's plenty of expertise on here to help you decide....
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It shouldn't be difficult either way but sometimes the nipple gets bunged up and/or it's spring loaded ball jammed which can happen if the job is done infrequently...
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Ha it's basically the same box as the 948 Herald!
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Just had another thought about the possibility of the reverse stop bolt being longer than standard. If it has been changed st some stage and is too long could that make 1/2 gear change difficult even if set correctly? Wonder if operator position could be measured with lever against reverse stop and compared with 1/2 selector slot...
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Well now if the gear lever assembly has been overhauled (when holding the selector operator stationary you shouldnt be able to waggle the gear lever from side to side at all) you could try putting it back in place to try gear selection...
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Hi, everyone makes mistakes but unfortunately you might be in for a surprise on Triumph prices now....
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Hmmm I've always had a problem with one of my calipers taking ages to fully bed in new pads because it runs at a slight angle to the disc so I suppose it might be possible to shim it square?
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The chain will probably be ok but the tensioner rubs directly on it so the links wear two channels. It can look bad but presumably carries on doing its job for a long time before breaking up... I would open it up for peace of mind especially as you have the gasket and seal. After 8 years there's no rush to get it on the road is there🤣
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Well if the gears all select ok the theory is that the problem is elsewhere with the lever mechanism as the prime suspect. I wouldn't disturb more than necessary and of course don't drop anything in the open box!
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As I say can you try to move those selectors by hand to test their operation and check the detects? Get an appropriate tool (something similar to the ball of the operating arm?) in each slot and slide each through their normal travel. There's a bit of resistance and then they should suddenly slide into gear so careful of fingers and knuckles. Don't force anything...
The whole selector assembly will indeed unbolt from the top of the cast iron gearbox case and can be lifted off to leave just the gear shafts below.
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On 30/05/2020 at 19:07, Pete Lewis said:
then add some decent washers ???? ( reset the toe in) like you sometiimes do for calipers
def not on any parts list but the idea is from somewhere
Can I ask what you mean by the 'calipers' comment Pete?
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Hi the mounts positioning looks ok to me but they are a bit perished. This isn't a problem as long as they are still well bonded to the metal ends. Sometimes replacement mounts don't last as long as serviceable originals...
With the gear selection you could try moving each selector locally with a suitable metal tool. Takes a bit of effort and of course 1/2 is in the middle, 3/4 left side and reverse right.
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Remember to keep all the bits you don't use so you can start the essential collection of half used spares😂
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I wish I had 3 Triumphs to fit them to😥 but no it was down to a severe case of impatience...
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My block came machined with a stepped underside so it fitted tightly into the slot on the top of the diff. This leaves only the possible side to side movement on the stud holes but if clamped properly won't move...
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My block came machined with a stepped underside so it fitted tightly into the slot on the top of the diff. This leaves only the possible side to side movement on the stud holes but if clamped properly won't move...
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My block came machined with a stepped underside so it fitted tightly into the slot on the top of the diff. This leaves only the possible side to side movement on the stud holes but if clamped properly won't move...
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It sounds very much like your gear lever linkage is worn (very common) and the excessive play means the selector engagement lever on top of the box can't move to the right position. Luckily you can replace the various linkage bushes and bits external to the box but the gearbox cover/sound deadner will have to come off.
Mk3 GT6 Second Gear
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Sounding good, are the bearing surfaces in each end of the laygear good as well? Careful with the synchro hubs as there might be very small spacers in the bottom of the holes where the springs and balls go that are used to set the correct spring pressure. Also good to check the synchro rings for wear to their grooves and how far each ring will go onto it's respective gear cone. You could swop the rings around as 2nd and 3rd usually have had the hardest life...