johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Thing is I've never found the crank pilot bushes to be very worn which always surprises me. Maybe just a little bit of wear is enough to see off the tip bearing so the box has to come out....
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I prefer door forwards as much as possible and quarterlight back as required to ensure the rear of the glass has good coverage of the seal on the B post. This also helps to close up the door to bonnet gap which on many cars is too big....
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Difficult to judge but looks like your door might go forwards a bit more and maybe tilt down some to even up the rear edge gap. The bonnet might also go down a little further adjusting the rubber stops to keep the chrome strips level. I've found having the quarter light as close to the A pillar helps reduce wind noise and sealing there but if it's too tight the quarterlight can be moved on its mountings inside the door shell. Don't think youll get it perfect but maybe an improvement...
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Can we see a pic of the front of the door including quarter light Paul?
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My existing oil hole runs from the space between the synchro engage teeth and the main gear and is angled to come out the rear. The new hole will have to be completely separate and it'll be hard but I want to drill from a trough in about the middle of the main gear directly in to meet up with that bearing oil hole...
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Thanks Nick, thats exactly what I was thinking but using one of these and a centre drilled oil feed. I might go fo a 16mm long bearing as the mainshaft tip will only be 19mm. Were there any difficulties drilling the oil hole?
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Yes I can see that would be problem so think a 'machined' type needle roller bearing better as these come with an oil hole already drilled in the outer race. This would have to line up with a lube hole in the input shaft but the downside with this type of bearing is their larger outside diameter...
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22 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
If the mainshaft is knackered (they usually are) and the bore in the input shaft also, it is possible to buy new mainshafts with larger tips (18mm vs 1/2") and machine out the bore of input shaft to take a needle roller with outer sleeve. I did this on my GT6 gearbox last year. I also had a hole drilled through the tooth root so that the meshing gears would force-feed oil to the bearing, as lubrication is a problem with these.
Only done 500 miles so far, but so far so good.....
Nick
If it's not a trade secret Nick can you go into exactly what you did for the gearbox mod? What size and type bearing did you use and how was it located in the input shaft? Thanks
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I'm wondering if that DC is really DG....
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The 1600 had different ratios to the 2L especially 1st but I suspect that unit could be from a 1300 or 1500 Dolomite or similar. You could count the ratio if interested....
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It's definitely a 3 rail box but has the later j type overdrive. I don't recognise the serial number but that's nothing unusual!
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51 minutes ago, daverclasper said:
Hi Pete. I think I have always measured the the longest distance between the bottom of float and gasket face, which on reflection, is not correct.
Guess a removal of carbs to check this is in order?.
Cheers, Dave
No Dave you've got it right, I think we're just getting mixed up here. It's measured from the lowest point of the float when in its raised position (i.e. as if the float chamber was full of fuel) to the bowl joint face.
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Yes this needs sorting out as both pistons should sit flat and rise together. If you lift the piston with a finger (engine off) it should drop back down with a clunk. Mine didn't and it was because the needle wasn't centred in the jet. Once you have this correct it sounds like the carbs should be balanced to make sure the same airflow is going through each one.
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Yes I was lucky to find the required spacer in my bits box and I've got no idea what it's from! Certainly gives a lot more room for the electric fan...
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Sorry I meant a large thick washer that sat on the pulley and proud of the crank nose and then a smaller washer for the bolt to hold it all in place.
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I read the thicker the better (and for insulation!) so have got 20mm closed cell sticky back foam to slap everywhere...
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I've got rid of the boss and used the shorter mk2 bolt with a thick washer to retain the crank pulley and no problems. I did wonder whether the crank was balanced originally with the boss but haven't noticed any increase in vibes...
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Yes I believe it can be fitted and they do come up on eBay from time to time but as they are not available new sell at a bit of a premium.
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No the hole should face down to drain any leakage away and not leave the bearings running in water
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We can always resort to hitting the car with a twig anyway😅
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I would measure the distance you have from existing boss to rad and see if someone on here can measure up a mk2 fan for you. Id be surprised if there isn't enough room (don't forget though that the engine can move forward slightly under heavy braking)...
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Yes Robin a pic is worth a shed load of words and there's some good ones of all this in the free to download workshop manual. Believe you can also get reprints in paper....
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Pretty sure they're 15, definitely not 13...
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My MK1 Vit is dash and cappings all veneered and it's really difficult to get the old varnish off without damaging the veneer...
I thought it was American something veneer but not walnut?
Mk3 GT6 Second Gear
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Hi, I take the lever physically won't move into the second gear position from third? And yes don't force it!