johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Could also be a problem with the air valve on the servo not shutting off the admission of air to one side of the diaphragm so the vacuum is continually applying pressure to the hydraulics. If the brakes are released (once any residual vac has dispersed) when the engine isnt running it would confirm this....
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I would say that looks correct especially in the second picture when you look at the relative angles of the fixing bolts. This will twist the rubber coupling and tend to make it seem the assembly is under a compressive load...
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Im replacing all my 'bags' with 30mm adhesive backed closed cell foam sheet. It works out cheaper but dont know how effective its going to be...
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That sounds like the original stuff and I dont know if its horse hair in the bags but something like that😄 I would replace it with something as these cars are noisy enough as it is!
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From what Ive seen thats quite a bit better top hose alignment than the aluminium rads offer in fact one guy got the rad pipe rewelded to correct the angle...
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yes definitely option one so Im going to buy shares in Cummins!
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Thanks, I make it just over 7% increase which with the 165/80 13 tyres I like to use will be a bit too much error for comfort.... As Pete says calibration would sort both out in one hit.
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There'll be no problem as they can bring in portable generators to make up the necessary number of charging points👍
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Sorry well covered topic but I cant find a definitive answer on what my options are to correct the speedo reading when putting a 3.63 diff in my non-OD 2L Vitesse. Is there a chance of changing the gearbox speedo drive and if so how do I identify the gears I need? Thanks
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yes its a nice idea and worth a shot. More likely is that its just the front seal that leaks as it has a harder life but fortunately is also the easiest and cheapest to replace🙂
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Ive had the old Gunson balancer for years and it works a treat, just rotate the carb intake coupler to allow enough air in to put the flow gauge mid scale and balance....
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Trouble is suppliers might get these from different manufacturers and a lot seems to come unmarked so you get it once and its good then the next time rubbish....
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12 minutes ago, NonMember said:
It should slide in fairly easily but not loose. If it needs major persuasion then something's wrong - quite likely the kit.
I think a suitable rod needs to be found and then, wrapped with abrasive paper, used to increase the bushes ID slightly...
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Coppaslip or similar between bolt and steel sleeve and then nylon bush to sleeve is a bit of a grey area but I cant see grease will do any harm especially in the cup washer area (reckon they do move against each other)....
Havent heard of that oil before.
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Certainly worth driving it around to see if theres any change and also lower the fuel level enough so that if necessary you can get the sender out.... In the meantime you could short the sender supply wire to earth to confirm the gauge then reads full.
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Definitely best but unfortunately not all have access to MIG welders☹️
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Dont think youll get much temperature into the head so I would do a few heat/cool cycles on the stud itself to try and get it to break free...
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Im afraid thats about it unless you can take the blade out of the hacksaw then reassemble it with the blade in position (maybe at 90º?) to cut the bolt...
An air driven tool is available and would make this job a doddle but not many of us have that luxury☹️ You should be able to move the components one way or another to give a slight gap or if necessary cut through part of the bush itself. Then youll need patience and slow progress possibly spread over several sessions and certainly a few cuppas!
Its the way you bond with the car and 30 years later wouldnt dream of parting with it😍
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I think this has been discussed before and the two terminals on your car should be slightly different sizes. I would measure them and the larger will be the positive...
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If it was tracking alignment I would expect both tyres to have worn as to go in a straight line both wheels have to have the same angle even though it might be the wrong angle. To have wear on one tyre only sounds like heavy cornering on that side or another type of misalignment on that wheel only....
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oh dear if its rusted into the trunnion steel sleeve (almost guaranteed) then its out with a hacksaw to cut the bolt both sides between the trunnion and link plates. Luckily the bolts are usually quite soft so cut fairly easily especially if the assembly is off the car.
Theres now stainless sleeves available or if using a normal one I recommend having a routine of undoing the bolt periodically to move and copperslip it....
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yes the oil could be contaminated with an additive or be fully synthetic which might cause slipping so worth changing by draining from both the gearbox and OD drain plugs. However its also possible theres a problem in the hydraulic system such as blockage of the operating valve or a dirty filter both of which can be serviced while the oils drained....
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Remember dont go over Kew Bridge🤣
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Think I used a 1/2" drive socket the wrong way round once for a stubborn one with a large allen key and mallet on the other end....
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Seized front brakes MK3 GT6
in Braking System
Posted
strange to be a servo problem if theres no vacuum to provide the force... However its difficult to be sure that the vacuum has dissipated even after an hour as maybe your non return valve and system is really airtight?