johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Stick with it if it works as the sliding joint can bring its own problems....
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Correct and I believe there's a cover plate that fits to the floor pan propshaft tunnel that has to be removed to get to the rear flange bolts if needed
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10 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Cost. As always.
So the solid prop is the cheapest to make, and was fitted to Heralds, unless there was an NVH problem. The strap type is only a little more expensive and would often fix the problem. The sliding spline costs more still but is generally better for NVH, which was worth the cost on a Vitesse with its "silky smooth and silent" advertising persona. CV joints were expensive in the '60s but had become common by the mid '70s.
Orrrr was it that Triumph were too far out on chassis dimensions and it was easier to fit a variable length prop to accommodate the differences😂
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Now we are dreaming!
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Must be some reason why Triumph went to variable length props....
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There appears to be one on eBay at the moment for a 1200 Herald
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I've had it a couple of times with new gaskets but this last time with a tightening routine no further problems. As I say each time I redo them they have loosened....
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I re tighten my manifold bolts a couple of times a year as the heating/cooling seems to slacken them and then I get leaks (MK1)
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From the free to download workshop manual the carrier should be about 2" in height so looks like Colin's right
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I think a new clutch will greatly improve things (sorry no recommendations). What's the slight shiny band on the left of the friction plate underneath the screwdriver in your photo?
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You can get an idea by the thickness of the motor. 120w should be more than an inch and 220+ over 2 inches....
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No wear on the flange seal surface I take it?
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Some fan makers are reputed to exaggerate the power of their items and the cheapy 120w Chinese eBay item I bought certainly didn't draw anywhere near 10amps....
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Agree on Rimmers but they probably have the widest range of stuff so have to pay for the storage and managing of it, some of which will be very low turnover....
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A more powerful fan also has the benefit of moving air around the engine bay when stationary which keeps my carbs cooler...
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No don't think it'll be item 13 as fluid will come out and run down so more likely to be seal 8. This can sometimes be confirmed by the level going up in the reservoir when pushing on pedal...
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As said I went with no spacer but it does need a great big thick washer to hold the pulley, bigger than the crank end diameter. Then the advantage of a smaller size fan is that you can position it slightly off centre to give max clearance...
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Yes that'll do the job nicely! I wondered if the boss was part of the crank balance but removed it and didn't notice any decrease in smoothness. As I didn't fancy cutting the original bolt think I bought one for a Mk2 Vitesse which for some reason was quite a bit shorter.
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33 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:
I can't remember any great issue with removing the Mk2 Rad other than having to rotate the plastic fan blades to clear the bottom outlet as you lift the radiator clear of the valance, but I'm using the std Vitesse yellow plastic fan.
One trick I do use is to have a cardboard sheet/plate of the same size as the rad core that I fit over the fin tubes to avoid damage to the fins.
Paul I'm very interested in your electric fan installation, can you provide a photo of the install. The original Mk2 fan which is fitted to the crankshaft is too slow at idle (700 to 900rpm) with our high temperatures and esp in traffic jams, where you have to keep the revs up over 1500 to cool the engine. An electric fan will run a lot faster OK with a load on the battery but that's what the alternator is for.
Peter T
I agree that an electric fan can move more air through the rad at tick over so have a Spal 13" unit mounted engine side. I removed the original fan and boss on my Vitesse and used a shorter bolt plus large washer to retain the crank pulley. The new fan is 62mm deep at the motor, draws around 12.5A and does a fine job.
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Wish mine would explode and give me an excuse to put on a tasty stainless jobbie😍
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37 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
As in four sides of the rectangular adjuster?
Yes each side is effectively a 'click'
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Is that the right way round Doug? A smaller bore MC should need more travel to pump the same volume of fluid....
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If you changed the oil at the same time it might take a bit longer to come to a 100% conclusion...
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That wouldn't explain the electronic ignition not working would it?☹️
GT6 Diff oil
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Unless you're very lucky and someone has installed a drain plug in your diff removing the old oil isn't so easy. Assuming you don't want to remove the complete unit then sucking the oil out with a tube fed through the fill hole would be about the only other option....