johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Have a look at the additional issues Graham had above. Turns out the dolomite clutch slave is in a different position on its bell housing than the 3 rail one....
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In fact now, as Ive got an 1850 non OD single rail box I want to use in my Vitesse (not a great fan of overdrive), I think I should put the internals in a 3 rail case and carry out some drastic surgery to the tail casting. It should avoid the previous issues except for propshaft length (I'll need a standard OD prop), clutch friction plate, speedo cable (opposite side of gearbox and different fitting), and there'll be a hole in the top of the rear casting that'll need sealing somehow....
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I do remember having those on my Vitesse but left them off after it's resto. My doors seal well, although I do try to avoid torrential rain, and I put it down to spending a lot of time getting the doors/quarter lights as far forwards as possible and then bending the seal flange in/out as required to ensure the rubber is in contact with the door all the way round. It means the doors need a bit more effort to close but stops leaks and reduces wind noise.
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Ok yes I can see the Dolomite bell housing looks like it has its slave cylinder mounting and aperture for the lever slightly further round to the horizontal so allowing what I believe is the same lever to be used without hitting anything. Interesting that the slave cylinders are different....
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Don't understand Peter, surely a single rail in a Gt6 is just selector rod housing, propshaft and in Grahams case speedo angle drive? No clutch or additional bell housing mods needed I think...
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I love it when answers match!
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Yes there's always some waggle as it's supported by a ball race bearing and, very close to it, a loose fit needle roller. However there definitely shouldn't be any actual radial movement in the main brg...
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I suppose it could be a single rail input with a modified 3 rail main shaft that uses a big tip bearing? Otherwise if it's an original Triumph unit it's a real mongrel!
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29 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Same splines? I fitted the Dolly 1850 J-type box to my Mk1 GT6 but needed a Dolomite plate for it as the splines were different.
The tip of the input shaft was damaged and I remember thinking: it will do for a while until I change it to either a GT6 one, if that will fit, or get a better Dolly one. That was 2001. Good value!
Are you talking about a 3 or single rail box though Colin? If it was a 3 then that really complicates the picture as maybe it had the bigger mainshaft tip as well!
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Louis perhaps you should get along to a meet to see a nice Vitesse? They can be set up to go and sound very good as, although not in the same league as a V8, the six is a bit special...
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19 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
so you have a diaphragm clutch and a 18mm mainshaft spigot
i did that with mine but had a mike papworth stem gear so kept the 10 cut spline not the rolled spline input shaft
so Snap
Pete
I thought the 3 rail dolly box kept the 10 spline and small tip but got the bigger synchros and quieter gears? Then the later single rail did get those additional changes including being an inch longer (OD version)....
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Agreed but nice and simple. I believe the later rotoflex set up is quite a bit more complicated😱
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Well there aren't really any axial forces on the trunnions as any side load on the hub is transmitted to the diff by the half shaft....
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18 minutes ago, Adrian Cooper said:
Hi Andrew,
I have the Revotec fan on my Mk2 with the full width radiator and I am very happy with it. The installation kit is neat, with the fan behind the radiator, the fan seems to be correctly spec'ed for the job as it never stays on for long, even on the hottest days. I did remove the engine driven fan as I expected that it wouldn't be needed. I did change the location of the temperature sensor from the bottom hose to a tapped hole on the thermostat housing; it didn't make any difference to the operation but just looked a little neater.
I would be very interested to hear your reasons for your advice Johny as I always find your posts to be spot-on.
Adrian
Blimey thanks Adrian! As I say no experience on a Spit only Vitesse and obviously the bigger the diameter the fan the greater the cooling effect and possibly less powerful fan (narrower) you can get away with. I don't see much difference between in front or behind rad (had to be behind on mine) and it just comes down to space/ease of fitting...
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Haven't done it on your model but think 9" a bit small and also better to fit on other side of rad, blowing, as on a Spitfire there should be plenty of room..
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Not found it a problem, just adjust at wheels when jacked up and any final tightening when back on the ground take it up at the lever....
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does seem strange, I wouldnt have thought the axle movement would make a lot of difference as they pivot on a point not far from the handbrake cable guide. This is probably by design as Triumph wouldnt have wanted brake operation due to suspension movement...
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To test it think I would just bolt a bit of wood equidistant to the flange and then with it horizontal put a lb on it at 12" out on one side so that it just starts to rotate....
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Do you think its a good idea then Pete to, if possible, ensure a good preload is always maintained on the pinion (in neither of my diffs did I find the same issue in the carrier bearings)? Online it even says correct preload extends the life of the bearings because even under movement due to flexing or thermal expansion theres guaranteed contact over the full roller surface rather than possibly just part of it...
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Thanks Clive and its true the pinion will move but it should only be fractions of a thou as the preload is shared between the two bearings and the difference between a free running bearing and one with 12lb.in is achieved by only a small movement of the nut.
If the diff is noisy anyway I think its worth trying this, especially on a collapsible type, before exchanging it for an expensive overhauled unit...
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Im having a look over a couple of used spare small chassis diffs Ive got and found both have very little preload on the pinion bearings. According to the WSM they should be set to 12 - 16 lb.in so the pinion (with crown wheel removed) should need this not inconsiderable torque to start turning. Looking online at why preload is used on taper roller bearings it seems theres quite a few benefits of which one is noise reduction both in the bearing itself and gear meshing if used for that purpose. Its needed whether the bearings are new or old and of course tends to reduce as they wear so Im wondering if the lack of preload could explain the whine that some diffs develop. Unfortunately Ive never run these diffs so dont know if theyre noisy but it could be something to try for anyone who does have that problem. On the later collapsible sleeve type its just a case of tightening the pinion nut (obviously difficult to measure the actual setting) while the earlier shimmed arrangement would need stripping down.
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Surely the second one is for a herald?
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were you able to see the reservoir level go up as the pedal goes down?
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Well a smaller filter can be installed more vertical so it hangs down and can't drain. I think over a long period of time of not being run, as is the case with many classics, no valve is going to hold. Also they do so few miles between oil n filter changes that the size isn't important....
Dolly 1850 single rail gearbox in to mk3 GT6
in Gearbox & Overdrive
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I think the 1850 bell housing was different to move the clutch fork further away from the selector rod area and possibly give sufficient clearance for the extra height of the main casing which would explain why the mods are necessary.