johny
-
Posts
7,777 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
44
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Everything posted by johny
-
Wait a minute youve got to be a bit careful here as it comes down to the pistons youve got fitted. If flat you want a head 3.3" deep, part number 517610 (why I suspect with your current 3.4" head you'll be down on compression). However if domed the shallower head would give too high a compression and so you already have the right one...
-
Heres the underside of the spring pan so looks as if the bush support dish is the same both sides Iain....
-
yes luckily most things were over engineered enough to get away with manufacturing 'variations' in those days😁
-
Oh another interesting point would be the compression readings you get Pete? I love giving other people jobs😁
-
Stamped number could well have been removed and it looks like the head thickness has been reduced. Does the engine serial number match what you would expect? Another interesting check would be to confirm whether the pistons are flat or dome top - you should be able to do this through the spark plug holes...
-
yes looks like either the forging or machining was slightly off during manufacture but its lasted this long so cant be anything wrong with it👍
-
The solenoid is definitely not operating? Before dismantling anything you can measure the current draw to check the electrics as a high proportion of OD failures are down to this side of things..
-
Perhaps this will clarify it. You can see the stamped number between the two far right stud holes👍
-
oh looks like Rimmers do them part number 148916? However if your adjuster reaches ok not much the point in changing...
-
yes that looks like the stamped number - not very clear but not necessary anyway as seems that casting was only used on the TR250. It has the bigger exhaust valves and is essentially the same but would have used the longer pushrods which probably arent easy to find...
-
This from Chris Witor is very helpful even though Ive had to copy it sideways🤔 Ive seen some heads where the stamped number is between the first two studs on the manifolds side. Pete yours does look like its from a TR5 being thicker (measure it?) and with longer pushrods...
-
yes when done up you dont want to find a gap between the hub and bearing housing. However the current hurdle is that you dont find the shaft too worn where the inner needle roller runs direct on its surface as that means a new shaft☹️
-
Dont need to worry too much as the main nut when torqued up to 110 lb.ft will push everything along the shaft to their correct places👍
-
Replacement Steering UJ - Best Option
johny replied to GFL's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
ouch which one of these two they offer was it you used?
-
yes its why the gaps must always be set again after retightening the head. Did the bolts turn much more with the 60Nm of torque?
-
You mean all the gaps had to be adjusted again? If so thats quite likely because when you retightened the head bolts you moved the whole thing slightly downwards which would close up the gaps a little...
-
Looks like theyve got their identification tags so might be able to identify them and confirm theyre a pair. The jet holder on one looks like its been undone so hopefully that can screw back in... As their condition is unknown and they might be missing parts I think theyve got to be sold for parts/overhaul so 100 pounds is possible...
-
Yes they can be replaced the same as any other and in fact its even shown in the free to download Vitesse/GT6 workshop manual👍
-
sorry yes the manual is kg m isnt it so 6 kg m is approximately 60 Nm😁
-
ok so a nice round 6 Nm should be good👍
-
I think you need to get the complete units off to see whats going on. There shouldnt be a difference but maybe one damper has been assembled differently under its upper spring pan to the other...
-
ok but dont mix up lb.ft and Nm😲
-
Can you guarantee that your torque wrench is accurate and youre not going over the maximum figure though?
-
yes with a diff ratio change speedo error will be significant and is the important one while rpm is pretty meaningless really unless racing. I suppose as you'll send the speedo away somewhere to be adjusted you can include the tacho with it at the same time?
-
Im using 6mm closed cell neoprene cord at the moment on my standard rocker box and it certainly seals ok. It could probably take 7mm and is a lot cheaper than a silicone jobbie but of course it remains to be seen what its like to remove😲
