johny

It wouldnt be good running a 12v coil with 6v. You can check this by connecting the distributor (-ve) side of the coil to earth then turn on ignition and measure voltage at coil +ve terminal. Should be same as battery voltage...

Best to increase a few degrees at a time and listen for pinking (rattling noise from engine when accelerating). However I dont think enough advance is your problem....

Where are you in Spain Carba? Also why do you highlight your posts😁

Those spoked wheels (not to be confused with the very similar TR item) I think came from the factory in plain and leather covered versions although not sure where each was fitted...

Im not very good on SU but theres been lots of discussions on here so a search of the site should help you👍

Oh no its got to be a wood rimmed les leston jobbie for that😳

Looks good. There will be a mark on the pulley which must line up with the one you have shown just when the spark comes. With your strobe light connect to spark plug lead 1 and your vacuum disconnected with the engine idling the flashes should show the two marks together....

Worth doing as quite sought after these days😁

Paint the spoke ends plus hub and then finish with a stitched leather rim👍

Doesnt look good as thats an anchor point for the vertical link and so will tend to move back and forth particularly when braking. Need to investigate further to see if problem is spring eye rubber bush worn or the spring leaves loose etc...

I would measure the intakes as theres no rush and Im sure there will be other goodies to buy😁

The brackets do come up on ebay once in a while. I used fish tank hose for mine but it was slightly small. I believe the motorsport stockists do all sizes including the exact one for our cars...

With the poly though havent you got the additional reassurance of having slightly stiffer mountings and so better handling😁

Colin I wonder if the difficulty visualising the set up has been down to the fan. Its centrifugal not axial so as you can see in a previous photo it draws air in through the round hole into its centre and then throws it out to pressurise one side of the heater box. This forces it through the heater matrix into the other side of the box and out the bottom into the distribution box👍

The fan draws air in from the circular hole through the heat exchanger inside (temperature is controlled by the amount of coolant being allowed to flow here) and down into the distribution box. Inside the latter there is a hinged flap that is moved by the dash control knob so that in one position air is directed to the demisters via the hoses or in the other goes straight out of the bottom of the distribution box. In case youre wondering about the rubber flap just under the circular seal, this allows rain water to drain from the air intake chamber but not air in from the engine bay👍

Gasket 24 is the intake from a chamber that sucks from the bulkhead top grills. It just squashes between heater box and chamber skin but if it doesnt seal you draw air from engine bay.... Gasket 22 sits under the heater box but around the distribution box inlet which protrudes up through the bulkhead into the heater box. When the nuts are done up from beneath the two are clamped together so ensuring a good seal👍

Id pay good money to see that👍

Oh no, mines shabby on the outside but a smooth clock like machine underneath - just like me🤔

It means it doesnt look better than the rest of the car like a new one would😂

Ive just dismantled and repainted my horn push which has been quite successful. You paint on the inside engraved surface of the perspex and could probably even repolish the front of it if scratched...

Yes I wonder if they are rims that have home redrilled for some reason maybe for a different pcd although both sets of holes look the same. Then when drilled they might not have had the facility for countersinking...

Wow at this late stage it might be a bit difficult! I imagine sealant was put between the overlap of the two halves and this will have stuck them😩 Good luck and remember to copaslip any bolts you undo to try and keep them free for any future work...

Ok how about removing all plugs and then connect number one lead to a plug touching earth. With ignition on turn engine over by hand watching timing mark and the plug. Adjust to produce spark at right position...

Have a good check though as they can look horrible but still have plenty of life. Metalastic were quality🤗

As I say very pleased with mine but it is almost 4" narrower than the standard rad so if you can fit something wider you should be able to reduce the thickness especially as the first is much more effective for cooling than the second...