johny

Are we sure though for standard bushes the cup washers dont go either side of the top plate as in the pic I posted? I thought the holes in the top plate accepted the cup washers....

Must be a problem with the brown/yellow wire going from bulb to regulator (dynamo still used?). Has it broken at the bulb holder?

On a hot engine in hot conditions the mixture tends to go rich at idle because the air temperature gets higher (reason for hoses on air box to pull in coolest air possible) so less dense so less oxygen so too much fuel.... This can also cause hot restart problems☹️

yes just because a relay is clicking doesnt mean its contacts are making or even if they are that theyre connected internally to the relay terminals😞

Yes it looks like theres an extra washer in there which doesnt match the design set up like this:

Ok then measure what happens to this voltage when you earth the other side of the coil W2. There should be no change in it but its just possible theres a high resistance in the supply somewhere. This allow battery volts when theres no current flow but on energising the coil the voltage cant be sustained... Also disconnect the relay and measure the resistance across W1 and W2 which may well be open circuit☹️

yes theres even bullet ones but dont know how well they stay on😲

So definitely got 12v permanent live (ignition on) to earth on W1? When testing try to touch both meter and earth leads to the actual relay terminals and not just the wire spade connectors in order to discount poor connections between the two. Then remember the old saying: if youve discounted the possible then only the impossible remains...

Looks like item 25 is a waxstat jet and 24 a normal one. As explained above you can convert waxstat to non waxstat without having to buy the expensive conversion. This is by replacing the waxstat capsule (a small cylinder that expands with rising temperature to move the jet and make the mixture weaker) with similar sized coins so there is no longer any movement with temperature change. This mean you still set the mixture as normal but after that there will be no more change to it from the waxstats which can be unreliable...

Yes its a pity GT6s arent as smooth as Vitesses 🏃‍♂️💨💥

I wonder if the seal is supposed to be used with the bush as it looks to have a good exterior sealing face...

I would like a rectangular mirror but if possible with it set wide rather than vertical to catch anything in the blind spot. Of course the creme de la creme is an original Desmo like this but too expensive....

Heres the bushes and those seals from James Paddock...

Yes thats an error in both tests 1 and 3 relative to the drawing on the same page. The manual is definitely not perfect😞

I hope you didnt earth W1 as in this diagram that would have blown a fuse. There should be 12v measuring to earth on both W1 and C1 and as you have found shorting C1 and C2 should energise the solenoid. Earthing W2 should operate the relay and also solenoid so if the first happened but not the second theres a relay problem while if neither worked the fault is with switches 60, 61 or associated wiring and earthing.... Note: I see in some of the diagrams the relay terminal numbers are crossed over ie C1/C2 = C2/C1 so probably best to go by the connected wire colours🤞

Those seals are definitely offered by some suppliers for cd150 carbs. I would have thought oversize spindles would still require line reaming of the holes unless your very lucky...

Legal requirement to have more than one mirror in some countries I believe. I have a 4" round clip on fitted to my vitesse and it works well although dont think another on the passenger side would be much good. Mines flat but you can get convex which might be even better although will change distance perception...

As Ive said before additional springs fitted to the throttles can increase wear rate of the spindles...

The bodies should be harder than the spindles so only become very worn after many miles and various replacement spindles. They look like seals not bushes...

A good pump shouldnt need priming as it produces a vacuum that will pull the fuel through from the tank and using its manual lever, if fitted, is most effective. However a higher level of fuel in the tank will help and also of course an absence of any air leaks in the suction pipework👍

Are you sure air isnt being pulled in the fuel line somewhere and bubbling in the filter? Feel the temperature of the pump when it happens - just too hot to hold is about 60 degrees and that could start boiling....

It could be radiator leak sealant that was used in the past and theres still a some left in the system...

These engines are pretty robust as they dont have aluminium cylinder heads so that temperature shouldnt cause any problems. Oil change and head retorque would normally be at 800 to 1000km but you could do it sooner if youre worried. I assume the oil is still looking good and clear?

I always have a list of bits to buy but anyway I think that nut could wait until your next shop😂

They are available from the suppliers I think....