johny

Not sure what boost they were but modern replacements seem to be either 1.9 or 2.3 to 1 and theres plenty on here about fitting them...

Perhaps you should consider a servo Gary because if the car stops with 'a hefty shove' the brakes work but may need assistance? It can come as a bit of shock after a modern and a remote servo is a relatively cheap and easy modification....

If you mean the rocker box gasket I would go dry - youre always going to replace it next time so doesnt matter if it sticks. However now there are silicone seals available for some models which are reuseable...

I can see the argument for new drums as they wear and can go oval (although as always quality of new is an unknown) but the backplates are just a piece of metal! Alright they might need a clean and paint but with front ones you havent even got to worry about the handbrake pivot wearing a slot in them. Then I reckon finding new would be a miracle🤞

agree Pete, pretty sure mines the original 50yr old one! Nothing moving on it to wear out...

Saying that I see spitfiregraveyard has used backplates and hubs on ebay at the moment👍

I believe the front brakes are basically Vitesse/GT6 rear brakes but of course some of the components will be unique and yes difficult to source these days. Once it would have been much easier as lots of Heralds were being converted but now very few are left and all you can do is keep trying the dismantlers...

This is the rev counter were talking about because tachos are not at all affected by diff ratio changes? They are connected to the engine and so independant of what ever happens in any of the transmission.... If its that important to you I dont see why after re-calibration it cant be perfectly useable👍

Yes this looks like it currently being offered by one of the second hand spare stockist on a well know auction site😃

Those were the days when people built their own cars😍 Is there any home build kit car scene left now - what would you use and anyway would the regulations allow it?

Looking good! In case you didnt know Aaron the original Triumph workshop manuals are available for free download at vitessesteve.co.uk and although the specific one for the 13/60 isnt there the other manuals including the GT6/Vitesse one will cover just about everything you need👍

What about testing by remote operation of the coil? Set up the distributor with everything in place and rotor arm definitely pointing to cylinder 1 and a loose spark plug in its lead cap earthed against the block. Then replace the -ve wire of the coil (goes to points) with a temporary wire and with the ignition on you should be able to generate a spark by touching the temporary wire to earth (to charge coil) and then lifting it off. You should of course see a good spark at the plug... Those leads are resistive ones to suppress radio interference and although theres a small volt drop along them this wont be the cause of the problem.

yes its an easy mistake to make and I probably would have done the same but it looks like alternators have different configurations. From that list an S indicates battery sense but as I say that model of alternator also comes in a two pin version which are just L and IG...

Heres the list. If it was an S terminal then the connection to battery would have been correct. As it is yours senses the correct voltage internally...

yes here it is, only rubber components are 8 off item 4...

Come on Paul keep up🤣Your photo of the diagram shows it to be the left of the three pins! Believe you had a brown wire on it connected directly to the battery but its meant for supplying a pulsed signal to a tachometer if required...

Think Id go for a good second hand unit. Mines original like this and still good at over 50 years old!

well step by step but certainly looks like terminal P shouldnt have had a 12v supply on it☹️

ha no if the alternator regulator is good it should earth terminal L when its turned on by the ignition switch supply to terminal IGN plus it seems no supply being connected to terminal P...

Have you tested it as in that article Paul? Terminal L must go down to earth when youd expect the ignition light to illuminate...

Where exactly is the play Gary? It could be rack moving side to side, play in the UJ (but I wouldnt expect side to side) or the steering column bottom bush....

As you dont know how accurate your torque wrench is yes best to go in the middle of the range...

I would do it all at the same time as the oil change....

Valve timing is to see that the cam is in the right position relative to the pistons so that the valves open and close at the right times. With an overhauled engine from a reputable supplier this shouldnt be a problem👍

ok you only need to undo them if theyre out of balance and adjustment is required👍