johny
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Posts posted by johny
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I do think we can safely anticipate that any part from a single rail box is going to use the later thin rings though....
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I think the issue now is that with modern cars many people have grown to be quite accustomed to braking in bends if required and this presents no problems. However when they change to driving some of our cars it comes as quite a shock that doing the same can bring serious consequences and of course, to be fair, sometimes the unexpected can happen mid bend and braking is unavoidable. I find the experience very similar to riding a motorbike which also cant be braked hard in bends so in both cases its even more important to adjust your speed beforehand and anticipate problems as early as possible....
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3 hours ago, SixasStandard said:
Thanks Colin/Johny/Clive,
It seems that axle tuck under and snap oversteer are alive and well if you're 'giving it the beans' and then find that the 'beans' run out mid manoeuvre. Forewarned is definitely forearmed!!
Clive, I assume the significance of the Courier spring is a higher spring rate to cope with a commercial payload? If such a spring were to be used on a Mk1 would it potentially make the ride a bit harsh? Also, what is the availability of these Courier springs like? or are we talking modern repros?
Regards,
Ian
Theres always a trade off with spring rates Ian. Certainly a lowering block would be a good start but also weight in the boot (not good for acceleration of course) and increasing rear wheel toe in can be beneficial....
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I can confirm that the famous tuck under is quite real as many moons ago in a Mk1 Vitesse I went into a large roundabout too fast and panicked about a quarter of the way round (I intended to go straight across) and lifted off the throttle. Well the car flipped over so quickly, thankfully only onto its side, that it must have been down to the rear wheel tucking under. Contributing factors could have been the dry road surface (so the tyre gripped rather than slide) and worn suspension components but it was certainly very easily done.....
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well the guy doesnt seem to be surprised by the one like yours but rather by the 17t non tapered one. Id say yours is definitely an attempt to improve reverse gear ease of engagement and also maybe gear whine noise....
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hmmm Ive got one but havent used it for years as I found the results gave too much variation. I adjust my Vitesse using the little plungers on the Stromberg carbs....
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just for interest then are we agreed it must be early Dolomite 1850 single rail internals built into a Spitfire 3 rail box?
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As an aside I wonder if its Dolomite 1850 or Spitfire internals that have been used. As the former has the same ratios as my Vitesse that would give 26, 24, 20, 13, 15 teeth along the laygear.....
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you could be right about the hub but its made more complicated because part number 515377 listed only for Mk1 Vit was superseeded by 516911 which Rimmers show is suitable for Mk1 and 2.
I think Darrens box must have all the internals of a single rail because to work it must have a 13 tooth laygear which surely has a different cut of gears and wouldnt work with the earlier main/input shaft ones. The only thing that doesnt add up is that Darren says its got the small mainshaft tip....
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however if he has 13 teeth on the layshaft the 17 tooth idler and 29 hub are indeed correctly matched....
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well thats interesting so if Darrens layshaft has 15 teeth and it needs a 21 tooth idler plus 33 tooth hub (seems the Mk1 Vitesse had a 34 tooth hub which strangely is shown as being interchangeable)...
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yes I can see a Dolomite 1500 3 rail box has 33 on hub and 15 on layshaft but the reverse ratio is different to the Spitfire VI/1500 (all other ratios the same) so you should have a different number of teeth....
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Dont want to complicate things further but my w/manual for Vitesse 2L says 34 teeth on hub, 21 on idler and 15 on layshaft. Unfortunately I cant find a Spitfire manual online but this should give an answer for exactly how many teeth you should have....
Also I would imagine your car has had its diff changed from standard to compensate for the different ratios in the Spit box
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I just cant see that you can keep that idler as surely the hub and idler must go together: assuming the centres are the same then more teeth on one equals less teeth on the other....
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I think technically its called mid engined if the engine is in front of the gearbox and diff (rear axle) as opposed to really hanging out of the back!
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Surely they must have lifted it up - any signs of other damage?
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Im no expert of Spitfire models but if the replacement rings have the same inner diameter as the old ones then you had a bargain and youre good to go. You can check the rings by carefully inspecting the profile of the concentric serrations (should be nice and sharp and not flattened off) and also how far they can be pushed onto the 'cone' of the gear. They should grip the cone well before the front of the ring meets the gear face. Put the best ones on second and third as these have the hardest life....
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Not from a 1500 Spitfire I hope as the single rail box uses different rings?
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it can have a hard life if the driver tends to put the car into reverse while its still rolling forwards and also a high tickover can worsen the crunch. However I think that gear is good for a few more miles yet just treat it gently (as you should do with the whole box).
Are you replacing the synchro rings themselves or are they still ok?
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yes it could just be that the pattern part springs (which I wouldnt have thought are easy to replicate accurately due to the tempering of the steel wire etc) are stronger than they should be. Hopefully they'll soften up with use or you'll have to have more weetabix.....
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I take it the packers are down in the holes under the springs so are you 100% there's none in there? Id imagine they could be difficult to get out....
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my manual says 19/21lbs for both. I know that if its too low you run the risk of gear changes where the engagement starts too soon before the synchro ring has fully matched the speeds so giving a crunch. Too high and obviously youll need more pressure on the lever although yours will probably easy up once immersed in oil....
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2891211594282791/
Saw this, dont know if its near you but looks like a Mk2 for breaking....
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Pat are you sure theres no other mods to your engine as its strange that someone went to the trouble of modifying the manifold and fitting HS6s without being able to get much benefit ?
Best Spin Off Oil Filter for MK2 Vitesse
in Engine
Posted
I get Crossland for Rover 200 1.6 from Eurocar Parts 2.36 pounds each delivered. Other makes available if you want to pay more....